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Old 06-11-2013, 01:45 PM   #51
flingwing1969
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Originally Posted by TehMark View Post
Hey OP, if you haven't done this already you might be able to tap into the fuse box at the back of your hatch. http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...55&postcount=2

I'm not sure how you're powering the cam but figured I'd throw this out there in case one of these spots would give you the power you need.
Thanks TehMark. That would be a great spot from which to pull power but the Lock Pick wants you to power the camera from it's harness - attached to its orange/black wire. I'm sure this is so that you can use the rear camera in motion feature that Lock Pick provides. I'm sure I'll have no problem running a wire either at the door sill or along the upper door area under the head liner. If anyone has done this and has any advice - I'm listening. Thanks
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #52
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Ah, haha. Oh well. :)
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:19 PM   #53
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Does anyone know how to get the black plastic cover off of the back of the hatch door? Like where should I pry? Any tips?
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:56 PM   #54
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Remove cover from left and right grab handles to expose four screws. Remove screws and start pulling down on the lower black panel unitl it comes off(first time requires some force). After that, remove the center light colored panel by pulling upward then do the same for the left and right panels. Assemble in reverse but do not over-torque the four grab handle screws.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:22 PM   #55
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It's been over a week and for the most part I'm satisfied with the Lockpick2. Simple installation and the ability to add additional cameras, it's a good investment for those of us who didn't get the factory option. Only two small issues; I've noticed some minor video anomaly on playback of Ipod video that I didn't have before the install of the Lockpick. Also, I can't seem to get the A/V override to function, even with the proper dip switch setting and activation using the voice button. Maybe it's me not hearing the beeps or something. Anyone else finish their Lockpick install and if so, how is it functioning?
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:40 PM   #56
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Well I finally made enough progress on my honey do to take a half day break to do the install of my Lock Pick 2 and rearview camera. It went very well and works as advertized.

The trunk disassembly took only about ten minutes and went back together quickly and easily. The dash disassembly/assembly was even easier and quicker then is shown in the Lock Pick YouTube video. You will note here that I have a sedan but you hatch guys/gals will be able to install everything pretty similarly except for the removal of the Ford logo/hatch button/license plate panel (easier for sure) and the wire routing in the cargo area vs. the trunk. If there are any hatch differences anyone wants to share here, have at it.

Here are my observations and suggestions with pictures:

Step 1 - Assemble your parts/shop materials – Lock Pick 2, backup camera, long RCA cable, 16 gauge wires (1 hot 1 ground) long enough to reach the dash, properly sized wire splices or solder/flux (my preference), heat shrink tubes, lots of black electrical tape, 15 feet or so of flexible split wire sleeves of your choice, spray lubricant, and cable ties.

Step 2 - Get your tools in order – Parts tray for screws etc, medium Philips screwdriver (for the trunk/hatch inside panel), T20 torx driver (for the MFT bezel and panel), some tool to pop the trunk panel corner fasteners off, wire cutter, wire stripper, soldering iron or wire splice crimper, fish tape, digital camera (for taking pictures as you disassemble so you can get the parts you remove back where they belong), multimeter (not absolutely necessary but I like to check my power and continuity before I put everything back together and tape everything up), and 10mm socket/short extension/spanner or electric drill with proper attachment.



Step 3 – Test your camera for functionality (connect it to a 12v power source and plug the RCA plug into a handy TV etc and check your selected wires for continuity to make sure all is well. You’d be surprised how much frustration these quick and easy tests save if you do them before you install everything and button everything up only to find that not all is well.

Step 4 – Remove the trunk/hatch interior panel. It is held on by nylon Philips head screws in expanding plugs. Unscrew these carefully and pull each plug one at a time. If you unscrew all of them, planning to pull the plugs after, you risk the panel dropping and all the plugs popping off and dropping into who knows what inaccessible area. The panel removes easily, just set it aside in a safe spot.



Step 5 – Remove the trunk panel that holds the license plate light/trunk button and Ford Blue Oval. On the sedan, this panel is secured to the trunk lid with 10 mm hex nuts and tight fitting pop-on buttons. You will also have to remove the trunk mounted tail lights to free this panel. There are four easily accessible nuts and two plastic hand operated nuts on the tail lights. The wire plugs on the tail lights are easy to get to and they are the typical “press the tab and pull” type. Once you pull all the nuts and both tail lights (they are also fastened with a pop-in so even after you remove the nut, you’ll have to give them a good tug to pull them – fear not) you will find that the panel is still firmly attached to the trunk – there are two pop-pins on the trunk that very tightly pop into some flexible fittings on the outside corners of the panel that are holding it on. I used a small pry tool to easily pop the panel off without scratching the paint.







Step 6 – Remove the OEM license plate light/trunk button assembly and install the aftermarket camera/light/button assembly quick and easy – unplug the light/button plug, press the tabs, pull the unit – feed the wire in, pop the new assembly in, reconnect the light/button plug.



Step 7 – Run the wires from the new unit through the OEM grommet. My camera assembly had a power plug and RCA female plug and included a power wire set (red (hot) and black (ground) with one bare end and a male plug end to attach to the power plug (red). The provided RCA cable had a male plug on both ends and there was no way this was going to fit through the Ford grommet so I cut one end off and soldered it on after I forced it through the grommet. The grommet is designed to hold only one wire set but it will easily accommodate all the wires here if you use some silicon spray and a scratch al or similar to force the grommet open, and you tape all the wires together as one unit.



I then pulled the grommet up so that I could tape my camera wires to the OEM wire and run tape all the way down as an anti-chafing and anti rattle action. Make sure you completely remove all the silicon before you try to tape your wires.



Step 8 – Solder or crip the RCA cable you cut to pass through the grommet, do the same for your long power cable (I had an old vacuum cleaner cord I’d been saving that I liked because it was nicely protected and it was more than long enough, and it was free), check your connections, insulate the bare wires from one another, and continue to tape all the wires together for neatness, etc.

I then put the wires into a flexible split sleeve like Ford used and cable tied it piggyback style to the OEM loom as it went down the trunk hinge.



Step 9 – Route your wires from the trunk to the MFT. In the trunk, I followed the existing wiring down the hinge then did some fiddling to see what happens to the wires when the trunk is opened and closed and then I cable tied the sleeve/wire loom up out of the way at any handy spot I could find.

I then passed the loom down under the seat back via the OEM path, then used a fish tape (available at any hardware store in the electrical tools section) to pull the wires (all taped up to prevent chafing and to keep them as one unit) around the back and right side of the passenger side rear seatbelt bracket, cable tying the wires to the back of that bracket, and then under the plastic c-pillar trim to the groove used to hold the door weather stripping in place.

I used this weather stripping groove as my rear to front wire routing and it worked like a champ. I again used my fish tape to pull the wires around the b-pillar and then around the a-pillar to the under dash area, tucked the wires well down into the channel and replaced the weather stripping. For those who don’t know, the fish tape is passed from where you want to go, to where you are, through a hidden area to where you can see and work, then you tape your wires to the fish tape, making sure you tape the pull end over to eliminate a catch point during your pull. You then pull the tape and wires back to where you want to go.





Getting the wires into the MFT area from under the dash was a little tricky without removing more panels (I’m too lazy for that). I shined a strong light from under the dash up towards the MFT area and finally found one dim ray shining up from the passenger side behind the AC vent. The fish tape was too stiff to feed down this unseen passage so I used the long end of my vacuum cord and fiddled and wiggled it until it popped out under the dash and I then used that free end as my fish tape, cut it off near the dash, taped the wires I needed to feed, and pulled the whole mess easily into the MFT screen area – ta da.



That is it for the routing and camera installation. The installation of the Lock Pick 2 is nicely covered in the YouTube video from Lock Pick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MumIkND0suk. The only change to that video would only modify this instruction by saying you don’t have to manhandle your dash quite as much as he does, if you pull the MFT out at the bottom, after clearing the indexing pins just below the two upper screws, it will clear the bottom and pull out with little pushing of the dash.

The re-install of the MFT is, of course, the reverse – in at the top first but not all the way to engage the index pins, then push up a little and push bottom in.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:43 PM   #57
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It's been over a week and for the most part I'm satisfied with the Lockpick2. Simple installation and the ability to add additional cameras, it's a good investment for those of us who didn't get the factory option. Only two small issues; I've noticed some minor video anomaly on playback of Ipod video that I didn't have before the install of the Lockpick. Also, I can't seem to get the A/V override to function, even with the proper dip switch setting and activation using the voice button. Maybe it's me not hearing the beeps or something. Anyone else finish their Lockpick install and if so, how is it functioning?
Nothing odd except I noticed better radio reception on my main station, but I can't imagine why that should be. I haven't had a chance to look at too many features nor to use the AV input yet. Somehow I seem to think that you have to hook your AV device directly to the Lock Pick module to have it work and I have yet to find a good and easy location for it - for now it's simply tucked back behind the MFT.
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:45 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by flingwing1969 View Post
Nothing odd except I noticed better radio reception on my main station, but I can't imagine why that should be. I haven't had a chance to look at too many features nor to use the AV input yet. Somehow I seem to think that you have to hook your AV device directly to the Lock Pick module to have it work and I have yet to find a good and easy location for it - for now it's simply tucked back behind the MFT.
From reading the instruction it clearly states "override factory A/V inputs". Maybe I misunderstood their explanation.
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Last edited by Titanium Tony; 06-16-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:59 PM   #59
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From reading the instruction it clearly states "override factory A/V inputs. Maybe I misunderstood their explanation.
Seems to me that means we must use the Lock Pick module in order to use the video in motion feature? I did hook up a camera to the two RCA inputs on the module and set the 3 and 4 dips to on and they both worked for me and I was able to turn them on and off with the voice command access lever. I have not tried the OEM A/V inputs since I installed the LP and I haven't used them since I bought the car, other than to see if they worked back in Nov 2011. Do you think that the Lock Pick disables them or simply does not allow you to use them with video in motion?
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:06 PM   #60
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This is awesome! The backup camera I got is hooked up in my license plate frame and just sticks out, I think it looks ugly. But it was free that came when I purchased a Chinese AU from OttoNavi.. I'll definitely be buying this camera since it doesn't stick out at all. Thanks man, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into making the tutorial.
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