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Old 05-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #11
MainiaxMotorsports
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Hey gang - what i used to do valve spring removal / install was the socket method....super simple to take them out -= PITA to put them back

LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZTnODXfDvA

Also - i think we dont need to worry about that extra oil port that feeds the VCT in a 2.5L block/head

when i thnk about combustion pressure of the cylinder vs any type of oil pressure - if you have the proper torques, i think you are good to go.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MainiaxMotorsports View Post
Hey gang - what i used to do valve spring removal / install was the socket method....super simple to take them out -= PITA to put them back

LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZTnODXfDvA

Also - i think we dont need to worry about that extra oil port that feeds the VCT in a 2.5L block/head

when i thnk about combustion pressure of the cylinder vs any type of oil pressure - if you have the proper torques, i think you are good to go.
Entertaining, but I don't think I'll be using that method. I'd also not show my rotted-out roof if I posted a video on youtube.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:26 AM   #13
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LOL - the tool will make your life sooo much easier - that method took 2 minutes to remove valves - 2 hours to put htem back :!!!

btw - did we figure out Intake/Valve Exhaust/Valve diameter?

will 2.3L valves seat in a 2.5L head - because then perhaps we can use 2.3L Cams
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:55 AM   #14
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I completely stripped the 2.5 and my 2.0 head last night. I highly recommend the OTC 4572 Large Valve Spring Compressor, it made the valve removal a piece of cake, and the way it locks will make the assembly easy too.

The valves measure exactly the same for the 2.0 and the 2.5. (rounded to the nearest tenth)
Exhaust: 30mm x 104.7mm
Intake: 35mm x 103.4mm

There are two more differences I found between the heads: the head temperature sensor and the spark plugs. After much cross-referencing I believe the Mazdaspeed 3 plugs will work. One step colder than stock plugs for the MS3 are the Denso (5340) ITV22 Iridium, which are very well reviewed by the MS3 guys.

6M8G-12405-BB (2.5 Escape) vs Autolite 103 (from my 2.0)


Autolite 103 comes up short in the 2.5 head: (yes it's filthy. It's a salvage head and I haven't cleaned it up yet)


The 2.5 has a shorter temperature sensor. I'm honestly not sure why. The depth of the hole in the 2.5 is the same as the 2.0, and the 2.0 sensor fits fine in the 2.5 head.
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:43 AM   #15
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My updated plan at the moment is:
1) Drill a new oil feed down into the first intake cam area
2) Tap the existing 2.5 feed port and block it off to keep oil from draining to nowhere (against the head gasket and just sit there)
3) Use Crower valve springs 68195-16
4) Use Crower steel retainers (instead of titanium) 87085S-16
5) Use stock 2.0/2.3 cams, valves and valve cover
6) Denso Iridium (5342) ITV27 plugs (3.5 steps colder than stock Mazdaspeed 3, which runs lower compression than this motor)

When I get all my pieces together I'll start a new turbo build thread with all details.
If you want photos of anything let me know now, before it all goes together.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:06 AM   #16
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Hi Sporadic, i'd like to know how far along you are with this swap.. Are you just attempting to swap the 2.5 head to the 2.3 block to take advantage of the larger inlet ports or are you swapping the complete 2.5 engine into your car?..
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:19 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by xr4ti View Post
Hi Sporadic, i'd like to know how far along you are with this swap.. Are you just attempting to swap the 2.5 head to the 2.3 block to take advantage of the larger inlet ports or are you swapping the complete 2.5 engine into your car?..
I'll be putting the 2.5 head on a built 2.0 block. I got as far as I needed at the moment with measurements and analysis. I see nothing preventing me from moving forward, I just don't want to buy everything at one time when I have no particular deadline to meet. I'll finish up the short block in the next couple weeks and then come back to the 2.5 head. If I get ambitious I'll go ahead and order the valve springs and assemble the head sooner.

The end result should be something like this:
- 2.0 block
- supertech 10.4:1 pistons, forged H-beam rods, clevite H bearings, ARP main/head studs
- GT2871r turbo
- custom log manifold
- custom 3" exhaust
- 2.5 head with stock cams and crower springs/retainers
- 60lb injectors, stock fuel pump (going to try and stay within the limits of the stock fuel pump. It will give me something to do next year...)
- Cosworth flywheel, SPEC stage 4 clutch, Torsen LSD

I'll update this thread and likely start a new one as I move forward. I'm also doing home renovations and it's running season (5/10K's) so that takes up time also.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:23 AM   #18
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Great thread and awesome info! I'm excited to see how this turns out!!!!

Is the bolt pattern the same for the intake manifold? i.e. would the Cossie IM bolt up to the 2.5 head?
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:05 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by PSUrivie View Post
Great thread and awesome info! I'm excited to see how this turns out!!!!

Is the bolt pattern the same for the intake manifold? i.e. would the Cossie IM bolt up to the 2.5 head?
Yes the bolt pattern is the same, and while the Cossie IM port/flange area is larger, I can't measure it while on my car. Chances are good the stock D-shaped gaskets will not fit and a custom gasket will have to be made.
I also confirmed the 2.0 injectors and fuel rail fit the 2.5 head. The injectors protrude just a bit further (maybe a couple mm) into the intake ports than the 2.0.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #20
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Fantastic I want to do the same but with my 2.3 block, r u gonna use ur 2.0 cams? Or the 2.5? U think because of te 2.5 head is gonna be a higher compression?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sporadic View Post
I'll be putting the 2.5 head on a built 2.0 block. I got as far as I needed at the moment with measurements and analysis. I see nothing preventing me from moving forward, I just don't want to buy everything at one time when I have no particular deadline to meet. I'll finish up the short block in the next couple weeks and then come back to the 2.5 head. If I get ambitious I'll go ahead and order the valve springs and assemble the head sooner.

The end result should be something like this:
- 2.0 block
- supertech 10.4:1 pistons, forged H-beam rods, clevite H bearings, ARP main/head studs
- GT2871r turbo
- custom log manifold
- custom 3" exhaust
- 2.5 head with stock cams and crower springs/retainers
- 60lb injectors, stock fuel pump (going to try and stay within the limits of the stock fuel pump. It will give me something to do next year...)
- Cosworth flywheel, SPEC stage 4 clutch, Torsen LSD

I'll update this thread and likely start a new one as I move forward. I'm also doing home renovations and it's running season (5/10K's) so that takes up time also.
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