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Auto Washing, Detailing & Paint Protection Discuss wax, polish, chamois, microfiber towels, simple cloth towel, scratch repair and paint protection. Use this Forum to discuss your cleaning tricks and techniques.

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Old 05-15-2013, 04:11 PM   #11
MCPunk79
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Originally Posted by swansong View Post
Great posts so far, I'm guess I'd say I'm a budding detail buff myself. I can't recommend the claying part enough. In addition to the Porter Cable Polisher, you could also pick up a Griot's Garage polisher. I bought this starter kit in an Amazon lightning deal for $100 last Christmas. No idea if they'll have a deal like that again. The buffer is good quality and easy to use, and the machine polish they give you is basically error-proof. To be honest I'll need something a bit stronger (more abrasive) to fix some of my paint blemishes.

Couple washing/drying tips:
After rinsing the car, take the nozzle off of your garden hose (assuming that's what you're using) and let the free-flowing water "sheet" over the car, from top to bottom. This greatly reduces the amount of water left to dry up. I like to use a water blade after that, which leaves me with a basically dry car. I just dry up the door jams and edges after that.

Oh and for windows I like Stoner's Invisible Glass. Windex works in a pinch, but it's not the best and can negatively effect some window tints.

I've been using Griot's orbital machines for a few years now... the 6 and the 3 inch. They're great for starting out... their pads and polish aren't too aggressive and in some sense are "fool proof". I'm about to move on up to the Flex 3403 that I just used with my detailing friends and it's an AMAZING machine. So nimble and light, and it has removable backing plates. I can't wait to have my own! It's really going to help get those last few swirls and scratches that the Griot's machine doesn't have the power to get.

If you're drying a vehicle, I don't suggest using shammies... anything you rub across a car has the potential to scratch. Get a large waffle micro fiber drying towel and pat the car dry, don't rub.

Stoners is good, but make sure you get it in the arisol can. Gunk also makes one in an arisol can that is just as good, if not better... OR, you can go OLD SCHOOL... mix some water and vinegar (5:1) and wipe it off with newspaper.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:09 PM   #12
sparkey
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Hi just my 2 cents worth all depends on your paint & clearcoat if its not all
Scratched up & looks ok a good wash (2 bucket) & dry them I use mothers claybar
& lube detail spray wash again dry again then I use cg black light 2coats with a few
Hrs maybe overnite between the coats then cg v7 spray makes my 2000 zx3 look
Like almost LOL new the black light is real easy on easy off by hand......
Shine on
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:16 AM   #13
MCPunk79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkey View Post
Hi just my 2 cents worth all depends on your paint & clearcoat if its not all
Scratched up & looks ok a good wash (2 bucket) & dry them I use mothers claybar
& lube detail spray wash again dry again then I use cg black light 2coats with a few
Hrs maybe overnite between the coats then cg v7 spray makes my 2000 zx3 look
Like almost LOL new the black light is real easy on easy off by hand......
Shine on

I have a bottle of Blacklight, but haven't used it... the V7 spray is AMAZING! I would go all out and say it's one of the best sprays out there. For Chemical Guys... I use there JetSeal 109 and top it with some Lava wax... my Mustang looks just AWESOME!!! My SVT went with Zaino polish... they have some remarkable products as well.
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