2001 Hatch: Loose rear Uncontrollable swaying over bumps - Rear Alignment issues - Page 3 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:48 PM   #21
ManiacalZX3
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Since many of use are or used to be mechanics at one time, we could tell you check this and that till we are blue in the face and you may get nowhere fast. I would recommend going to a Ford dealership or repair shop you trust and just have them diagnois it. Less wasted time, as long as they can figure it out.

But as for my opinion, if the rear is moving after a bump/dip then it is in the rear, and its at a point of articulation. Loose or broken bolts or bushings most like, but it sounds like you have already looked at that stuff. I would think its the toe arms or their bushings.
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:04 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herenow View Post
I replaced the Bushings this weekend. From AutoZone, They seemed to be the the same as the Napa ones. The pricing was the same.

After the repair, the Rear End still swings from "LEFT, then to the RIGHT", when I hit a bump.
It was good i replaced the bushings.. they were completely shot & warn down.


I'm wondering if I should check the left shock.. in case it needs repair.
I replaced the (front) struts like 4 weeks ago.
if you've replaced the bushings and it still sway when hitting bumps, then you have too much toe in.
what is your alignment specs. the Ford spec is too broad. "on spec" can lead to wonky handly and tire wear
you want 0 (zero) of toe in for the rear tires (ask for it specifically) max 1/8" combined toe in. this will give you confident handling and long tire life.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:06 AM   #23
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Actually the factory rear toe setting is is 0.27 degrees with +-0.10 window. You never want a setting set at 0 degrees. If you put a setting at 0 then under even a small load like an driver an 1 passenger will put an extreme negative on the camber and toe. Just like in the front its setting is 0.12 degrees to allow adjustment for a driver and the movement of fwd which brings front toe in slightly.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:29 AM   #24
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AFAIK - the OP has only done sway bar bushings in the rear so far, control arm bushings still to be checked for the initial issue.

Slight toe-in for the rear, and "0" for the front (no toe-in) works well on these cars (Geezer's info. & "shade tree" alignment worked to fix my alignment issues)

I ended up settling for 0 front, and 1/32 in left - 2/32 in right at the rear. Started with 4/32 in at the right rear, the only "problem" corner to deal with.

For the "Shade Tree" alignment (ruler & fishing line parallel to car), the spec. I got here was 5/32 per side narrower track at the rear to get the fishing line parallel (measured from center caps). Then check difference in measurement at the front & rear of the wheels to see which way they're pointed.

This worked amazingly well for me, and got repeatable results even on a driveway that wasn't all that smooth. (check, drive & re-check to test measurements)

SVT 6-spokes were easy to measure from, and my Central brand mechanics rule with an adjustable slider made set-up quite easy. Setting 2 5/32 on the slider, got the line even with the center between 2 jack stands, then adjusted until the front was at 2" and the rear at 2 5/32 at the center caps - that gave me the parallel to measure from. Peeking at the rule under the monofilament line made getting readings quick. Writing them down while doing all 4 before looking at the results was key to figuring things out for me - no WAY could I remember numbers to put the picture together without that scratch pad!

For example, you NEVER stop exactly straight, so when I saw 1/32 in on the LF & 1/32 out on the RF I figured it was as close to "0" as I was likely to see!

Hope this helps someone... Like getting this from others here helped me.

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Old 05-28-2013, 11:37 AM   #25
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Well the focus and most alignment racks measure in degrees now. Also 0 in the front on fwd cars will cause toe in just like on rwd cars it causes toe out problems you cant set toe at 0 you need to adjust for fwd, or rwd, road crown, also if the vehicle has a constant load.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #26
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Yup!

That "0" becomes a slight toe-in under power on the FWD car. 'In" to begin with results in too much toe-in.

And RWD certainly needs "in" to begin with - different situation...
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #27
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I know I was just explaining why you would have to do such things. I lowered my focus 2" and did the alignment myself it was an experience and I learned a lot. Also sorry for off topic.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #28
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RESOLVED:

The issue was the shocks. The left shock was cracked in half. Replaced shocks, and the car no longer sways.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:07 PM   #29
e6bill
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Bumping. I have the same issue now
on my 02 ZX5. It felt like I was hydroplaning on the way to work and back. Scared the crap out of me, too. ANY imperfection on the pavement, reflectors, stripes, expansion joints on bridges, makes the rear end SNAP loose abruptly and almost fishtail otherwise. Checking the shocks tomorrow.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:39 PM   #30
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Mine turned out to be a bad wheel bearing on the right rear. Easy replacement.
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