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Old 04-26-2013, 10:36 PM   #1
Ralliman
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Stripped a rear wheel stud...

Still not sure quite what happened--I'm guessing the stud simply wore out, because half the threads were still in the lug when I finally wrenched it off. Needless to say, I have to replace the stud and the lug. I've done a bit of digging and found some info on FJ, but being on the rear wheel on an SVT, there's a bit that gets glossed over in all the stuff I've read. If I have to remove the caliper, am I going to have to take it apart like a pad change (and thus require a disc brake piston tool)?

I'm going in the morning to pick up a set of replacement studs, and the more I know before I start tearing things apart, the better.


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Old 04-26-2013, 10:43 PM   #2
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On a regular car with drum brakes, one needs a press to press out the old stud.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:57 PM   #3
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Should be able to remove the rotor and use a hammer to drive the old stud out through the hub. To put the new in put it through the hub and put a couple washers over it as spacers, then use a lug nut and impact wrench, or long ratchet and muscle, to pull the stud through by tightening the lug nut on it.

You should not need the piston turnback tool.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:00 PM   #4
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I've read that there's a dust guard on the SVT rear brakes. It was turning dusk when this happened, so I didn't have enough time to start taking it apart tonight. It doesn't sound terribly difficult, I just want to make certain I get it right.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:22 AM   #5
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I started to take the brake caliper off to remove the rotor, and almost immediately ran into an issue. There are four bolts total--two that hold the caliper (and the brake pads), and two more that appear to hold the caliper to the bracket. Do I need to remove all four, or can I get away with removing the bracket bolts? Am I going to be able to remove the caliper without having to mess with the piston? I've been unable to break loose the bracket bolts as well, which prompted the question of whether I'm even starting in the right place.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:05 AM   #6
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Posted via FF MobileCaliper to bracket bolts should do it. Big wrench & six point socket.... Luck!
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:42 AM   #7
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when I replaced one of these on my car I just used a hammer to knock it out while still on the car. Then I installed the replacement through an access hole on the back of the parts. I was done it less than 20 minutes
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #8
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Thanks for the advice; I just wasn't getting enough torque on the bracket bolts to break them loose, even with a healthy dose of PB Blaster. I got that sorted, at least.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 150mphzetec View Post
when I replaced one of these on my car I just used a hammer to knock it out while still on the car. Then I installed the replacement through an access hole on the back of the parts. I was done it less than 20 minutes
Actually, the bolt itself was just about that easy. The hardest part was wiggling my fingers and the stud between the hub and dust shield, while still maintaining enough control to fit the bolt into hole.

Now, however, I've reached a new issue: getting the caliper back onto the rotor. I'm afraid the piston has extended just enough that there isn't sufficient space between the brake pads; the one time I was able to wriggle the pads onto the rotor, the fitment was so tight that I'd have to hammer the caliper down into place (which took much less force to remove).

I'm rather stuck at the moment; I don't have another vehicle to make a run to the local auto parts store (I had to borrow a ride this morning, and that ride is no longer available), and I don't have a brake piston tool on-hand.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #9
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I was trying to follow proper torque specs for the brake caliper bolts, but I must have misread something, and I over-torqued one of the 13mm bolts that holds the caliper in place (the slider, not the bracket bolt). Luckily, it sheared off in such a spot that I was able to back it out with a pair of pliers, but that leaves me a bolt short. I've been trying to find more information about this bolt: thread pitch, stuff like that. Will I be able to find this somewhere like Lowe's or a generic auto store, or is this something I'll have to go through OEM to get?

EDIT: I got conflicting torque specs, and it looks like I went with the wrong one. FJ had the bolt listed at 26 ft-lb, but the instructions from Ford Racing has that bolt at 21 ft-lb. Bah.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:44 PM   #10
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Generic equivalents available anywhere, rockauto and autozone both list the kit for $5 per side
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