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Old 04-29-2013, 09:24 PM   #31
MainiaxMotorsports
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Engine Cover Tips

Hey Team - any tips / tricks for knocking off the crank bolt. I have air tools / impact wrench - but thought you ninjas would have some easy work-arounds, etc. As i am using that cover and hardware, oilpan, and tranny - kind of fun pulling this all apart. Talk about a good way to get to know your car/motor.

Skinned knuckle count: 3 (out of 10)



Also, my plan is to do the following per an earlier post:

2.5 duratec block
2.3 head - stock cams
Tap oil port in block and plug
2.3 front cover
2.3 balancer
2.3 crank sensor
Mtx 75 and might as well put on a new clutch / lighten flywheel
Balance shaft delete
Oil pan from 2.3 duratec
2.3 oil pump and gear
2.3 oil pick up
that sweet @ss cossie intake
race gas
Tune
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:15 AM   #32
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someone should write to FORD and tell them their 10mm bolts on most of these pulleys are wayyyyy to soft. Had to vice grip out three on the water pump.

:)
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:17 AM   #33
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I don't think it is the metal softness that is the problem so much as the fact that they have a slim head for extra clearance. This reduces wrench contact area. Could be wrong, but I recall the design of the hex head on pulley bolts being different than bolts elsewhere on the engine.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:19 AM   #34
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Makes sense.

ANy tips on this damn crank bolt?
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:38 PM   #35
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Here we go ....

Got the crank bolt off - thank you AeroKroil (orange can magic)

Got the oil pan, pickup off - already had balance shaft delete

Got the MTX75 Off - clutch was a stage 3 3 Puck Exedy (nice find)

Getting a bit ambitious - so, decided to polish/deburr the intake and exhaust ports on the head. Valves / Springs are only 6,000 miles or less on them since we did the zetec to 2.3L swap 2 years ago

My thought is smooth as glass intake/outake to mate up nice with the cossie intake and header.



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Old 05-01-2013, 05:01 PM   #36
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OK, got all the gear to port and polish the head - and might as well do a valve job while am at it - need a valve LAPPER - heard horror stories about the drill method

Next post - super uggly BEFORE valve / port shots - then Mirror clean valves and Ports AFTER :)
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:55 PM   #37
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For lapping valves, you don't really need the "official" suction cup on a stick tool. A piece of hose that fits the stem tight, then rub it between your palms as you lift slightly does the trick just fine. Not too much pressure that way, and it's easy to twirl the hose...

How far are you going on the "Valve Job"?

That could be anything from cleaning off the carbon and giving them a light lapping, to cutting the seats/replacing valves/lapping them in/setting clearances....

Neway kit for a three angle cut on the seats is a bit pricey for just one job, but if there is one you can borrow/use they do a great job!

luck!
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:04 AM   #38
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One Q? What pistons r u using? Stock 2.5?? What would be the compression??
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:51 AM   #39
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Valves etc.

I hear ya on the "valve job"

I ported and polished up the head last night - pulled the midnight shift and while i am NOT happy with Fords messy casting on the 2.3L head - being easy to work with helped - got it 80% of where i want it to be. This is the before shot obviously - will post the after, after i am 100%

intake port - see all that sand cast artifact - uughghghgg - needs to be mirror finished :)


The valves are only 6000 old - however i was shocked how messy the seats were. Lil Lapping and elbow grease (i dont use the drill method) did the trick


seats before



seats after


*NOTE - i have ADD bad so the "polishing" you see in the port was just to test my abrasive on the grinder - will post the finished product pics tonight
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:53 AM   #40
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I am going to use the stock 2.5L block, crank, pistons, etc. I thought i read the lowers were forged.....is that only on the mazda blocks? Not too worried about it - this build will stay NA for the time being. I dont need much more than 200hp.
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