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Old 04-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #1
eliaslincoln
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Why you might not want an Aftermarket Pulley kit

I hate typing so i made a video instead to explain whats what.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjE-lJY055g


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Old 04-17-2013, 06:05 PM   #2
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The same thing was happening to my crank pulley and adj. cam gear, I think they were both from CFM. The cam gear was chewed down probably .030" at least compared to where the belt didn't ride. I also noticed the "lightweight performance" crank pulley was getting ate up, but not to the same degree yet. These parts just shouldn't be all aluminum, make most of it out of aluminum but press fit some hardened steel on for the belt contact area.

I think if you're going to run aluminum timing belt components, you just need to be really damn sure that the belt tension is dead on so it will track straight forever, and that's easier said then done since the conventional wisdom says loosening the cam gear sprockets is "unnecessary" and sometimes "harmful" when setting up timing stuff.

I have to disagree at this point, the cam pulleys and crank pulley should all fit together with no coercion or even minimal stretching or muscle involved whatsoever. The timing belt tensioner is going to be permanently off if you had to do anything to massage the belt into place with the cam sprockets locked.

I plan to redo that work very soon, I knew I had belt walk when I got it together but time constraints and lack of tools necessitated I let it be for the time being.

Anybody know what socket sizes are used that secure the cam pulleys to the shafts? I didn't have access at the time but I intend to buy them and do this right pretty soon.

EDIT: And thanks eliaslincoln for illustrating what a potential problem this is, should be informative to people who haven't considered it yet.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:31 PM   #3
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That looks just like BMX sprockets it happens from the lightweight aluminum. We call it chainsaw blade cause well you know that what it looks like after putting some toque on it for a few months.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
The same thing was happening to my crank pulley and adj. cam gear, I think they were both from CFM. The cam gear was chewed down probably .030" at least compared to where the belt didn't ride. I also noticed the "lightweight performance" crank pulley was getting ate up, but not to the same degree yet. These parts just shouldn't be all aluminum, make most of it out of aluminum but press fit some hardened steel on for the belt contact area.

I think if you're going to run aluminum timing belt components, you just need to be really damn sure that the belt tension is dead on so it will track straight forever, and that's easier said then done since the conventional wisdom says loosening the cam gear sprockets is "unnecessary" and sometimes "harmful" when setting up timing stuff.

I have to disagree at this point, the cam pulleys and crank pulley should all fit together with no coercion or even minimal stretching or muscle involved whatsoever. The timing belt tensioner is going to be permanently off if you had to do anything to massage the belt into place with the cam sprockets locked.

I plan to redo that work very soon, I knew I had belt walk when I got it together but time constraints and lack of tools necessitated I let it be for the time being.

Anybody know what socket sizes are used that secure the cam pulleys to the shafts? I didn't have access at the time but I intend to buy them and do this right pretty soon.

EDIT: And thanks eliaslincoln for illustrating what a potential problem this is, should be informative to people who haven't considered it yet.
good points.

and yeah, not saying im the first person to ever post about this. but i have NEVER ever heard or seen this. hope people take note.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:33 PM   #5
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I'd say I'm one who's put the most miles on FC pulley's and is still around, I had some of the first parts they built.

I put well over 100K on my cam gears. I adjusted them much more than I needed to.
I eventually stripped 3 of the 5 adjustment bolts on 1 gear. Other gear is still pretty good.
I noticed a little ware in the grooves.
No ware on the cam mount side. Which there should be no ware being there is no friction there.
I'd use them again if I could have found 1 black gear.
I ended up switching to CFM because they make the lightest gears. About 12K on them so far.

My FC crank pulley looked not as bad as Elias's, but very visibly worn.
I replaced it with (at the same time I installed the CFM gears) a brand new Motorcraft cam drive gear, Gold Coast timing idler, Motorcraft Timing belt, ZX2 lower idler pulley, Motorcraft tensioner and stock crank pulley.
Took a time or two to get tension proper so the belt wouldn't walk. But once it was, it stayed put.

I have no fear of using Aluminum parts. It's just a case ware you need to be sure parts are waring/running correctly prior to buttoning things up for good.
I don't partake in the 100K service intervals and I check my car over far more than I need to. I'd say the intervals for a 'performance' car / part should be more in the range of every oil change, at minimum inspect most all visible parts.


Also, Tom has said for a long, long time that underdrives are a bad idea.
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #6
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I like the bit about "4 pieces" IIRC the Focus Central 4-piece was the only one that showed any benefit to being installed. Question also is, what did the timing belt look like? could you tell there was edge damage on the belt and inspect it that way or was the timing belt unscathed?
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:43 PM   #7
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Surprisingly my T-belt looked pretty good still.


The other part Elias probably didn't see damage to is the timing cover (Aluminum part). Mine's actually grooved from the belt eating into the crank pulley. Doesn't really affect anything though, just a bit of weigh-loss.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
I like the bit about "4 pieces" IIRC the Focus Central 4-piece was the only one that showed any benefit to being installed. Question also is, what did the timing belt look like? could you tell there was edge damage on the belt and inspect it that way or was the timing belt unscathed?
the belt itself actually looked fine.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:22 AM   #9
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I don't understand why does it look like is has teeth. Is that from wear? I just bought the set and the inner part on the crank is smooth. Is that the Duratec part?
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:23 AM   #10
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That is why the warning. Aluminum is softer than the steel OEM pulleys. the timing belt as it rotates is putting friction against the smooth aluminum and gouging it.

like back in earth science, the grand canyon was made by a river cutting into rock/earth.

same thing, continual high speed rotation warm aluminum will slowly ware the aluminum away as shown in the you tube video.
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