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Old 04-24-2013, 08:10 PM   #61
limeyrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rent View Post
As long as you released the tensioner and then retensioned the belt with it, I don't see a problem.
I did loosen some but NOT all (to completely slack) before tightening again.


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I would recommend observing the tensioner with the upper timing cover off to see how it reacts when you have the car running. Every car is somewhat unique in this regard even though it is within a small range of variance.
Exactly and I DID see it stay in the min and max 'fork' range both running and off, post adjustment.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:04 PM   #62
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Got the head back from the machine shop today :



Head bolts and gasket are in tomorrow, should start getting it back together. Depending on the mechanics workflow, I might have her back on Friday, potentially Monday though.

I got my new T-Belt, Tensioner, and Idler from Steve @ Tousley. He rocks! I'll put up some detailed pictures of the tensioner tomorrow or Friday depending on when I have time.

Then off to get my RE-11a's :D
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:08 PM   #63
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So from what I've read on here. When properly set up, the tensioner its self won't actually line up? Because my tensioner drops down about an inch. It spooked me a little when is seen it. I have honestly been trying to get it to line up lol!
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:25 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rent View Post
Got the head back from the machine shop today :



Head bolts and gasket are in tomorrow, should start getting it back together. Depending on the mechanics workflow, I might have her back on Friday, potentially Monday though.

I got my new T-Belt, Tensioner, and Idler from Steve @ Tousley. He rocks! I'll put up some detailed pictures of the tensioner tomorrow or Friday depending on when I have time.

Then off to get my RE-11a's :D
If you have not already done it, ask Steve exactly what the alignment should look like and how far (IF AT ALL) it should go out of range.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:09 PM   #65
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You guys are driving yourselves crazy. The tensioner can be correct and in range and the VCT blows all of that out of the water if the solenoid has leaked down while motor sat. Meaning you can see what appears to be abnormal looseness in the belt and still run correct. The VCT allows the cam to fall out of time with slack when motor is static. Why Ford tells you not to ever back off a tensioner once it's set. Besides that the belt breaking in the first five minutes of use means the tensioner range is incorrect after that point in time. Range is only correct on a brand new unstretched belt. The ONLY WAY you can recheck used belt tension is with the variable cam pulled up to the absolute zero end stop and all slack pulled to backside of tensioner after rolling motor around. Try that and see how difficult it is to get it all just right at the same time.

The tensioner, Ford branded or otherwise, is not high enough quality to hold exact setting once it has been banged on some by a running belt anyway. It was only intended to be used once at setup time and the pointer can change and sometimes drastically once run in, the range will not be like it was. Freaking out over that and over correcting for it will surely buy you grief.

Casted later design parts being bad? Nope. The only way would be if they were CRACKED, I see no mention or evidence of that at all. Casted parts don't deform, they crack, or the dead giveaway the part is substandard. You'd best look closer at your perceived 'better quality' Ford part, the base support in it it is cast also. I've seen your 'better quality' steel Ford tube insert in the center come apart too, as it is only held together by the cheapest quality stake job you can imagine. I've rebuilt them before. I for one cannot see the raving about castings when the freakin' pulley is PLASTIC, or the weakest part there, I've seen several of the plastic pulleys crack apart to let the bearings fall away free. FORD branded pulleys.................

Anybody figured out you can roll the tensioner eccentric in either of two directions yet? You can roll it in from the bottom or in from the top............I
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:05 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Casted later design parts being bad? Nope. The only way would be if they were CRACKED, I see no mention or evidence of that at all.
Some cast and powdered metal can bend before cracking - depending on which metals they're made of.
You're missing the OP..the tensioner allowed enough slack in the belt to cause bent valves. Something in it obviously went wrong.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:29 PM   #67
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Yes, it can bend slightly, but where bent on the part pictured to allow that? All I see is a pretty much polished bolt seating point, which could argue strongly not tight enough. No magic to a tensioner, if something went wrong with it then it would not spring properly anymore or broken somewhere, or roller locked up. Barring physical evidence of tensioner damage the tensioner did not do it. He has a case if tensioner is broken or collapsed to be able to see it somehow.

Somebody needs to take the tensioner apart to determine what you're looking for. That front casted part looks like aluminum to me.
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:12 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Yes, it can bend slightly, but where bent on the part pictured to allow that? All I see is a pretty much polished bolt seating point, which could argue strongly not tight enough. No magic to a tensioner, if something went wrong with it then it would not spring properly anymore or broken somewhere, or roller locked up. Barring physical evidence of tensioner damage the tensioner did not do it. He has a case if tensioner is broken or collapsed to be able to see it somehow.

Somebody needs to take the tensioner apart to determine what you're looking for. That front casted part looks like aluminum to me.
The entire kit is being returned through Amazon to Gates. If they find an issue I'll update here, but I have no idea how quick that will happen.

If I incorrectly installed the kit, I have no issue taking responsibility for flattening my exhaust valves, but something had to happen to cause the tensioner to lose tension and allow my exhaust cam to jump. The tensioner was torqued to spec. The mechanic who has my car now checked for this and verified my work and requested new all new parts for a timing fix, not just a belt. They've seen it happen before, one of those rare things that unfortunately happens.
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Last edited by rent; 04-29-2013 at 07:47 AM. Reason: Clarification o_O
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:33 PM   #69
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I'd be interested to hear of people that used the revised tensioner with SUCCESS, if the two failures mentioned are the only two that have occured then it would be easier to dismiss it as a freak accident and not an indicator of the general quality of the revised tensioner. I really want to swap my timing belt soon but having this part has me wary of putting it in....
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:50 PM   #70
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I've been running on mine since about March 17 or so. It's a Gates 294B kit, with tensioner and pulley. No issues so far, knock on wood.
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