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Old 04-12-2013, 07:41 PM   #11
Elizabeth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FocusRus View Post
Sounds like fuel pump is going south.......try a fuel pressure test.
Yeah, the symptoms read like a problem with fuel pressure.
So either a clogged filter, or a clogged tank, or as this other poster mentioned, your fuel pump is going out.
I would start with the fuel filter. If it has not been changed for years.... You might be due..
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:11 PM   #12
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You've already been told. CHECK THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, or start throwing parts (money) at it. You have all the signs of bad alt letting battery run down. Free check-do it.

The IAC does not affect anything above idle so NO. The TPS never goes out all at once so NO. BOTH will screw up though with no volts because alt dead........and COMMON on these. You'd swear low volts on these is a fuel problem, because it slows down the fuel pump like it's bad.

Quick check? Charge battery up several hours and see if problem disappears-if so you're there.

Cats don't go bad all at once either unless you struck something under car.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
You've already been told. CHECK THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, or start throwing parts (money) at it. You have all the signs of bad alt letting battery run down. Free check-do it.

The IAC does not affect anything above idle so NO. The TPS never goes out all at once so NO. BOTH will screw up though with no volts because alt dead........and COMMON on these. You'd swear low volts on these is a fuel problem, because it slows down the fuel pump like it's bad.

Quick check? Charge battery up several hours and see if problem disappears-if so you're there.

Cats don't go bad all at once either unless you struck something under car.
what are signs tht cat is going bad. and the tps.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #14
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Best way to test IAC is to give it a firm smack while trying to start it. If it idles fine after that's your problem. But ddoesn't always work. Agree with everyone else tho could be an altenator. Or clogged pcvv. So many things to go wrong
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:46 PM   #15
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The original posters description of the symptoms doesn't sound like an alternator issue to me.

If the alternator outright failed so it had no output the very fist thing that would happen is the battery light would come on and stay on. The engine would continue to run normally until the battery voltage dropped to the point the ECU shut down to protect itself and the car would stop running altogether. This could take 10 minutes or more and you would have the battery light shining in your eyes the entire time. If the alternator were intermittent you would get the flashing battery light but the engine would still run normally until the battery voltage dropped below the ECU cutoff. In this case it would take longer than with an outright failure.

The surging idle speed sounds like an idle speed control motor but once you move the throttle off the idle stop it is no longer in play and wouldn't have an impact on the engine at higher RPMs.

A fuel pump going out or plugged filter would start impacting high rpm performance when the most fuel is being consumed before it would have an impact on the idle. A plugged cat would have the same symptoms.

My vote would be that either the cam or crank position sensor has developed an intermittent output. When they are intermittent they cause all kinds of erratic behavior. Lots of time if the engine is allowed to cool it will start and run fine for awhile then become erratic again.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:50 PM   #16
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Cat gives a DTC. Runs worse at higher load and rpm if clogged, but idles fine there.

TPS can do all sorts of things but generally around dead idle and off idle, since they spend most time there to wear the resistor track. Can hesitate or erratic idle that comes and goes, you'll swear IAC is bad. Incorrect shifts on ATX, incorrect engine running everywhere when someone who has not a clue adjusts it incorrectly. It's the switch that tells PCM engine load.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:10 PM   #17
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'If the alternator outright failed so it had NO output the very first thing that would happen is the battery light would come on and stay on.'

Caps mine.

True, but they often don't fail like that. It is very common for these alts to spit out just one diode, they will then charge around 13.2-13.4 or so volts. People think it's charging but only enough to slowly run downhill to finally drag battery down with it. Can take a week and the last 30 minutes will have car doing some of the weirdest stuff you ever saw. NO BATTERY LIGHT AT ALL until the last minute when car simply gives it all up and dies. I've seen car not run correctly, missing and spitting, like fuel or crank/cam sensors, checking them with VOM showed they worked fine, no bat light showing. On a whim, charged battery after seeing this before on the other car, car instantly running perfect then. Alt at 13.4 battery at 12.2 by itself, or low enough to give voltage problems in the system. Learned this after lots of alt testing on hundreds of cars, you can have what appears to be good charging but down a bit, the battery will check low then. Not quite enough to bring battery up to full charge but enough to cause problems that flip you out. Quite different from an alt that fails 100% and harder to see.

If you don't have at least a full 14 volts charging on these cars a problem, the regulator set point is 14.6 volts.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #18
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Pull the sparkplug boots and clean the water/oil out ...
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:05 AM   #19
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Man, when I wrecked mine several years ago the battery caught much of the impact and literally shattered in a million pieces which ended up all under the hood. I rinsed off all the acid with a water hose and stupidly gave no thought to the spark plug tunnel area being flooded. Couple months after car fixed and running it began to bang out slightly under load, then the miss got worse, still car would run and idle, albeit somewhat erratically. Finally fed up with it, I yanked plugs and the rust around them and on boots was unbelievable. It totally slipped my mind that that much water could be in there. Still, being the tightwad that I am, I carefully solvent wiped the boots/wires down and wirebrushed the same plugs and threw them back in, car still running with them now and no missing at all. I find it hard to believe the parts still work, they looked like junkyard parts of a motor sitting open to the elements for years.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J0EC00L View Post
its not the TPS.

Check the Idle Air Control Valve
What he said
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