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SVT Performance (2002-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L SVT DOHC Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 04-11-2013, 05:54 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
I'd use what you got. Torx= meaning torque to yield bolts?
I think he means the t55-bit torx head bolts. I've had a few bad experience with torx head fasteners, I was going by Tom's recommendation for the ARP studs in my timing belt thread.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:27 PM   #12
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Bad experince as in the break before you reach torque specs or they strip out block?
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:06 PM   #13
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Bad experince as in the break before you reach torque specs or they strip out block?
It is more towards Torx head fasteners in general, not directed towards the SVT head bolts. I've stripped many of them in various locations on different vehicles-it usually involves loctite and a location that isn't easy to reach with a heating torch. The last one that got me was holding the fuel tank strap on my 09 mustang, stripped the splines off the fastener head as the metal was soft and had to fight it with a pair of vice grips and a small butane torch.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #14
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Well I am getting head back today with all new exhaust valves and pressure tested
Hope its done correctly
I also had a question about cleaning carbon off the top of pistions and getting the block deck ready for rebuilt head
Any good articles as to how to safley do this?
There are aslo some light stamp marks in the piston tops from the bent exhaust valave collision will that be a problem
I wiil try to get a picture on here later today
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:16 PM   #15
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:40 PM   #16
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As far as the carbon on the pistons goes, I turned the engine until each piston was at the top of the head and used a wire brush with a drill. Not an agreesive brush either, and just enough pressure to get them clean. I used a shop vac intermittently while I was cleaning them. As far as prepping the block, a sharpened putty knife, a razor scraper, and the drill and wire brush.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:02 PM   #17
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Thanks,
I past this point now but good advise as that is what I used also.
I 'm having a tough time loosening the intake cam gear as I tried using the 1 inch wrench and the inverted tork socket size E-18 but the intake cam feels like it is about to twist in half I am planning on putiing it all back on the head and then using the timing belt and wrench to help stiffen the cam before I try to loosed cam gear again.
I am also waiting on the oil feed oring that goes under the vct cam cap from dealer so I can replace it per service manual.
It says to use a sealant when replacing this is this a special sealant?
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:12 AM   #18
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I used a large cresent wrench on the cam. I had my dad hold the wrench while I used the torque wrench to loosen the bolt. I needed the torque wrench for the leverage. It'll help to have 2 people when torquing the cams back on too.
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