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Old 04-06-2013, 04:30 PM   #1
ShadeTreeG
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New oil pan gasket leaking

I replaced an SPI engine with another one, added new oil pump, and water pump. This one was in pieces after having the head repaired and a piston and rod replaced. When I got it back together the oil pan gasket leaked from the front below the crankshaft. I pulled the pan and the pump seal is dry the oil seemed to have leaked under the gasket in the curved area below the oil pump. The gasket looks like it is deeper in the groove at this area than everywhere else on the pan. From what I've heard these gaskets don't allow silicone to stick to them. I put a strip of cork gasket material into the groove below the gasket in the leaky area, I didn't help. I am torquing the bolts to 18 ft/lbs per the Haynes manual.

Any ideas on how to stop this leak? I'm thinking of trying the pan from the previous engine in case this one is warped or something.

Thanks for any thoughts you can share.


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Old 05-13-2013, 11:04 PM   #2
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Really strange, only things I can think of is making sure the contact surfaces are spotless and that the new gasket is clean and dry. Are you absolutely positive the pan is leaking? I thought mine was but discovered it was a crack In my dipstick tube. Could also be the pan. Sounds like you know what you are doing.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:23 PM   #3
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Moved to "General Technical Chat".
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:59 PM   #4
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I have never done a split port, but every other motor I put together there will be a dab of silicone here and there at the parting lines and where end seals meet.

I have never heard of a gasket that was incompatible with silicone sealant.
You don't want to glue the whole thing down like a bricklayer troweling on mortar, but at the few key spots it is often necessary for a fingertip smear of sealant.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edited to add:
Just checked the service procedure,

"Apply silicone gasket and sealant approximately 3.0 mm wide at the oil pump to cylinder block joints and the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer to cylinder block joints."

Silicone gasket and sealant: WSE-M4G323-A6
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:43 AM   #5
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About the only gasket I could see not liking sealant of ANY sort would be graphite like head gasket. Those thing don't like anything on them.

Pump is supposed to be centered on crank snout and at same time both sides evened up to make same gap on either side of rest of pan rail. Have fun finding the special tool to do it. If pump swung one way would relieve crush on one side to not seal.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:23 PM   #6
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Pump is supposed to be centered on crank snout and at same time both sides evened up to make same gap on either side of rest of pan rail.

I've wondered about that, it looks as even as the one on the old block. Also thought about bad machine work on the pump. It is a Melling from AutoZone.

At this point I regret not doing a Ztec swap.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:26 PM   #7
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I'm having the same issue and I am almost positive the silicone I applied to the oil pump casting/engine block casting seam didn't take. So I need to pull the pan again too.
I'm curious as to if the OP found the true problem and what steps he took to correct it?
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:11 AM   #8
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There is no such thing as silicone not 'taking', you either waited too long and it started to set up, or you didn't clean surfaces bone dry. Silicone will absolutely not seal from even oily fingerprints, and I mean oil so thin you cannot see it. BONE DRY.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:47 AM   #9
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It was clean; I made sure of that. The leak is right behind the AC compressor so I know it's that joint between the block and oil pump. It could be that the silicone tacked up before I was able to get everything situated. Either way I've got to get in there again today and redo the job darn it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:07 AM   #10
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Dripping oil from higher up a possibility too. Common and you have to literally wait for hours for it to slow down enough to get ahead of it. You clean the surface perfectly and a drop rolls down around corner of face edge right when you bring the pan to bear on the case. Pan edge itself brought to contact can cause it to happen.

Frustrating.................like ATX pans, although now I never use silicone, gasket only on them so problem solved.

It's easy for them to seal that stuff when motor bone dry and on engine stands in factory. They can flip them upside down. Different doing it in the field though.
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