|08-23-2007, 01:33 AM||#1|
HOW TO: ATX Swap / Replacement WITH PICS
EDIT: This how to also includes mini how-to's for tie rod end replacement, strut removal, fuel rail removal, and transmission fluid changes.
Imagine this: One day, you're hanging out with your dad working on your car
...when you find THIS!!!
Oh crap. After some deliberation, my buddies and I decided its the front oil seal of the trans, behind the torque converter (TC from here on). You have to drop the trans to get to it. So I had two options. 1. Keep adding fluid once in a while. 2. Fix it. With option deux, rather than just replacing that seal, I could theoretically just put in a new trans since the old one has seen its share of 165,000 miles and I would have it dropped anyway.
I fixed it. With HAND TOOLS ONLY yes people, it is possible to replace your transmission WITHOUT AIR TOOLS!!! Save yourself 1000 bucks and DIY Hopefully this howto will help you out I did a lot of searching and found zero howto's with pictures. Keep in mind that I skip over everything involving the tourque converter since my new trans came with one already engaged. Getting the TC engaged right with fluid in it without damaging the oil seal is actually a big portion of the work, so I was ecstatic.
was VERY helpful, as was the Haynes manual. I will not be posting some of the bolt torques, so get yourself a haynes manual before you do this, its a good investment. I also needed some advice along the way, and for that I thank Steve at Massive Speed System and Mike (b16sir1991) from Hillbish Ford.
I also have to thank Mike for the KILLER deal he got me on a lightly used (24k miles) trans and TC. And DHL too for getting it from NC to IL in 2 days.
More thanks to Jarod (JRODSVT) for the loaning of the engine brace. Couldnt have done this without that piece. He said its about 100 bucks at Harbor Freight.
I am going by memory with some of this stuff, so be prepared to run out to the store for something if you get in a bind. Also, this is not the only way to do it, but it worked really smoothly for me.
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW SOMETHING UP.
Okay, politics out of the way, let's get started.
1. It would be a good idea to have at least 2 if not 3 jacks ready, one of them being either a trans jack or a BIG floor jack.
2. you can get by with 4 jack stands, but 6 would be better. Dont forget wheel chocks for the rear.
3. long breaker bar and a steel pipe that fits around your ratchet
4. 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch ratchets and sockets (both shallow and deep for all needed sizes), with a few extensions. MAKE SURE the sockets are of good quality and the 6-point variety, we dont want any stripped bolts now do we? Two 3/8" ratchets made things real nice. You will need an 8mm for the 1/4, a 10, 13, and 15mm for the 3/8 (more if you have two), and a 10, 13, and 15 for the 1/2. You will also need a 19mm for the crank pulley and passenger engine mount and a 21mm for the driver side engine mount (both not shallow, either medium depth or deep). You can get by without some of the 1/2 inch sockets. Since you are using 6-point sockets, there may not be a wide enough angle for a torque wrench or breaker bar to work. When this happens, simply turn the socket 90 degrees on the tool and bingo, you're set.
5. Torque wrench(es). Most stuff is between 15-40 ft.lbs so a 3/8 would do good, but there are some things at 70 or 90 ft.lbs so you will also need a 1/2 incher.
6. Engine Brace. Most dont fit the FoFo very well, so you may have to improvise a little like I did. You may end up with a new dimple in your core support...
7. Combination wrenches - 13mm and 15mm. I believe a 10mm wouldve been nice too. You will also need a 5/16 combination or box-end wrench to move over the driver mount studs to the new trans.
8. Monkey Wrenches aka Adjustable Wrenches. One small one and one big one will do. There were a few spots where regular wrenches were needed so as not to strip the bolt head, but these things were time saviors throughout the job.
9. Pickle Fork aka Ball Joint Remover. YOU NEED THIS TOOL do not try to get by without it. Autozone rents it for 10 bucks.
10. Your lug wrench that sits on top the spare tire. lol more on this later...
11. A solid hammer or mallet, and a ballpeen hammer.
12. Various (in length and width) flathead screwdrivers
13. Pencil and paper
14. A visegrips or two would be good to have around, especially if you end up having to replace your tie rod ends
15. 2 or 3 allen keys, I dunno which size. They are used to hold a stud while you spin a nut in several cases.
16. Flashlight or dropcord worklight
17. If you do not have a dedicated transmission jack, you will need a flat piece of wood, at least 3/4 inch thick, about 1ftx1ft (big enough to lower/lift the trans).
18. Pliers of various sizes and types, most notably long needle nose.
Some pics of the tools:
1. 7 qts. of MERCON V ATF its about 7 bucks a quart at a dealer. Mine only took 5, but if your trans is drained better you may need more than 6. The capacity is 6.9 qts.
2. Towels, towels, towels, and a drop cloth.
3. BIG drip pan, one that holds at least 2-3 gallons and is wider than the trans pan.
4. Trans filter kit for your new trans. We wouldnt want to do all this work and just leave the old filter in there would we???
5. Oil seals (maybe). The two at the differential may be busted from axle removal and the front seal may be worn out. I didnt have to replace any of them
6. Be prepared to replace tie rod ends and / or ball joints and / or front swaybar endlinks if your car is rusty. You could ask your local auto parts store to stock the MOOG replacements for you, theyre pretty cheap. If you screw up the ball joint, you have to replace the whole lower control arm. So dont screw it up.
7. Loctite. Use it on some of the suspension bolts and a few various others. If you dont know which ones to use it on, you probably should read Carroll Smith's nuts and bolts book.
8. Thin funnel that fits in the dipstick tube to fill 'er up
9. You may need a new retaining clip for the driver side axle. Mine was still good.
10. A helper. Preferably someone that will be there with you from beginning to end. You CANNOT do this job alone unless youre a contorsionist, or maybe if you have better tools than I did. Either way its a bad idea, if you get hurt working alone, youre screwed.
11. WD-40 and / or PB B'laster for stuck bolts.
Double check. Triple check. Then check again that you have everything. Phew. Here we go.
(NOTE: the next post will have pics and the how to, please be patient and do not post replies yet. The system will not allow a long enough post...give me about an hour and it'll be done. I may even leave it for tomorrow...)
(EDIT: yup, leaving it for tomorrow, it's 2am. Will be done around noon tomorrow. Please, no replies until then )
Last edited by illinipo; 08-25-2007 at 02:50 AM.
|08-23-2007, 02:15 PM||#2|
::sigh:: ok get ready for a good 2-3 days of nothing but car.
First remove the intake and intake tube, then the battery and battery box.
Here's my helper.
If your batt box is this nasty, you may want to clean it once you have it out. There are three 13mm bolts.
Alright, now we're getting into it.
Now you have to remove some sensor wire harnesses. There are two on the front of the trans, one on top the trans, one that goes into the front of the engine block near the flywheel, and one on top of the diff. If you cannot squeeze hard enough, DO NOT USE PLIERS you will break the harness. Instead, go from the other side of the clip with a flathead screwdriver and pry up the clip while your helper pulls the harness out.
three on top:
on the diff:
With a pliers, remove the gear selector cable from the trans, it basically just prys off. This and some of those sensor harnesses might be easier from underneath if your car is lowered like mine, so maybe wait till after the next step to do them. This would be a good time to play with the gear selector on the trans so you know what and where P,R,N,D,2,1 feels and looks like on the selector.
Now you can jack the car up and support it accordingly. I used the loacations on the K-member where the rear bushing of the LCA's connect. There is a little hump that fits jack stands very well. The car never wobbled throughout the whole three days, and we really cranked on it several times.
Remove the front wheels. If you forgot to loosen the lug nuts like I always do, have your helper hit the brakes while you take them off.
Now you get to take out the left front splash guard....note the struggle with the plastic POS screw thingy on the top, middle of it....
Victory! It took almost a half hour to get it
Take a break.
This is what it should look like now:
Note the jack stand location. Also not how I put the lug nuts back on the studs, do this whenever possible so you dont lose or mix up nuts and bolts.
Now it's time to start disassembling some suspension parts. There are several ways to get enough range of motion for the axles to come out. Most manuals say to remove the hub-axle nut, but it has to be re-torqued to 237 ft.lbs!!! So I tried to find a way around it. I was going to remove the LCA ball joint, then the tie rod end, and then the strut so the knuckle would be only connected to the brake caliper (which is free anyway) and the axle, but the LCA bolts were frozen SOLID. Lucky for me, the ball joint had plenty of range of motion for the axles to come out.
Its always a good idea to WD or PB a bolt or nut if it is a little rusty
DO NOT HIT THE END OF A NUT OR BOLT WITH A HAMMER you will screw up the threads and will never get it back together. USE THE PICKLE FORK.
Since you dont need to remove the LCA bolts, dont bother. I thought you did but you dont. I believe the tie rod end nuts are 13mm and the strut pinch bolts are 15mm. The top 3 strut nuts on the strut tower are 10mm.
First, do the tie rod ends, using an allen wrench to hold the stud and a box-end wrench to turn the nut. You may use just a socket to break it free, but then you have to use this technique. Once you get the nut all the way off, turn it back on a few turns so the tie rod end doesnt go shooting out of the knuckle and use the pickle fork to remove the stud from the knuckle. Note how wet the assembly is with WD...
It was going very well to this point, but then I heard "oh crap"
The threads were toast anyway...
Between that broken stud and the pickle fork breaking the seal of BOTH tie rod ends
I decided to get new ones. The MOOG parts are great, they have a grease fitting and are much beefier. They also improved steering feel, so yay
I left the tie rod end replacement for the end, but you can do it now if you want.
Basically, put the stud back in the knuckle, use a visegrips on the lock nut, and use a monkey wrench on the flat ridges on the tie rod end. Pay attention to the thread direction, and start cranking on it. It took a while till I got it, so keep at it.
MOOG on top, Motorcraft on bottom. Note the major improvement in quality.
Now for the struts.
Loosen, but do not remove, the three bolts around the strut tower
Take out the brake line from the bracket on the strut.
Loosen and remove the sway bar endlink from the strut. I think its a 13mm. You will need to use the allen wrench technique described above. They may be frozen, so you might have to cut them out and get MOOG replacements like I did when I got my suspension kit. For this you would need air tools....sorry.
Then loosen and remove the strut pinch bolt on the knuckle. You may need the steel pipe or a breaker bar, this one should be loctite-ed in there.
Pry down the knuckle while holding the strut, it will come almost out of the cup eventually. Then you can bend away the knuckle/caliper/axle/LCA assembly and get the strut out of the cup.
While holding the strut (its about 10-15 lbs) have your helper remove the three retaining nuts on the tower, then pull the strut out while holding up the LCA with your knee. Have your partner put a jack stand under the LCA. KEEP IN MIND THE AXLES CANNOT BE ANGLED MORE THAN 18 DEGREES, if they are you risk damaging the CV joints. I use the jackstand to prevent this and also so that the weight of all those parts isnt held up by just the axle.
Note that the knuckle will want to flop around on the ball joint. Dont let it.
Take a break.
heelloooooooooo down theeeerrrre!!!
lol try to keep the humor in the job so you dont go crazy.
By now you should have a "clean area" with the parts you keep pulling off.
This is what the wheel well should look like.
And now its time for me to take a break in writing this, no replies yet please. Im about a third the way done.
Last edited by illinipo; 08-23-2007 at 03:49 PM.
|08-23-2007, 04:48 PM||#4|
Okay, hopefully you just had a good meal and maybe a nap or full night of sleep, cuz this is where it gets interesting aka hard.
YAY the trans is here!!!
I was so happy because we decided to teardown while the trans was in transit to save time.
Here is my new (used, 24k miles) trans and TC.
The selector sensor was broken in transit, and the cooler tubes were bent.
But I used the existing cooler tubes on the car and the sensor worked fine.
This is important. You need to be sure the TC is still engaged. This block of wood did a good job of keeping it that way in transit. It has a smaller piece screwed on to the other side to get down into the bellhousing.
Place a straightedge across the bellhousing and measure 1" to the TC. If its 1", its fully engaged.
At this point, I decided to set up the engine brace. It is easier to get to the passenger motor mount with the coolant tank moved, so I moved it.
My hoist hooks were removed by the last shop that worked on it, so I had to improvise with the plates in the top of this pic
I also had to remove one and loosen the other fuel rail bolt from the head to get enough clearence for the bolt that holds the hoist hook to the head. No need to fully remove the fuel rail. First remove the electrical harness by pressing inward on the metal clips and pulling up, then use an 8mm socket to loosen the two rail bolts. It would be a good idea to de-pressurize the fuel system if you have to do this, so you might have to re-connect the battery and all 5 sensors you unplugged like I did To de-pressurize the fuel system, start the car and remove fuse #15 from the underhood fuse compartment, the fuel pump fuse, wait for the engine to sound and smell like death, then turn it off.
I always wondered what those dimples were for....Theyre in the wrong spot anyway But it still worked fine. Now I have a new dimple:
Get it just snug for now, no need to pick up the motor. Make sure the brace is happy.
But who wouldnt be happy with a helper like that???
Now comes the hard stuff and the scratching up of your arms.
First is the removal of the selector cable bracket and the dipstick tube
This is where the 1/4", 8mm comes in handy.
This is the location of the dipstick tube hole on the back of the trans. The end of the tube that goes in here is about 2.5" long, so keep at it. DO NOT get any dirt in the hole.
Now would be a good time to drop the pan and drain the trans. There are 20 10mm bolts. The torque is something like 5 ft.lbs so dont go crazy on them when you put them back on.
Now the axles. Oh, the axles. I spent about 3 hours getting them out and about 1-1.5 hours getting them in. Most time was spent on the drivers side since it has a retaining clip inside the spline.
BE PREPARED FOR FLUID LOSS.
loosen and remove the two 13mm nuts holding the intermediate shaft bearing to the frame. The U-clamp falls right off and the shaft pulls right out no problem. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE CV JOINTS MORE THAN 18 DEGREES. When you get it out, you can push it back inward and set it on top of the diff. This would be a good time to check the bearing for crunchy-ness and/or other types of failure.
there is a large hunk of metal on the shaft right next to the diff. This is what you need to pry on, putting your force as straight out as possible.
I tried prying with screwdrivers, bars, pipes, a cats claw, and some other crap for TWO HOURS and nothing would get the damn thing to budge. We stopped for dinner, and I thought about it. The only problem was that the bars I was using were too flexible, not stiff enough. Then my grandpa and I were talking, and he mentioned he used to work with tire irons for something...BINGO!! The lug wrench in the back of your car is perfect for this job since it has a tapered end
Here is the orientation, its kinda hard to see and equally hard to keep in place. Use your helper to hold it while you pry on it.
So I tried prying and prying and prying...nothing. The Haynes manual says to use a slide hammer, but my dad's mechanic says a slide hammer will destroy the axle. So......I hit the lug wrench with a hammer in a prying motion.
And after a few tries, out she went.
Just leave it pushed up against the trans for now as high up as possible, and allow the brake rotor to angle downward as far as possible, this will prevent the angle from going past 18 degrees.
Take a break. The second hardest part of the whole job is next. The hardest part of the whole job is the re-assembly of this part of the job.....so yeah rest up.
Keep all your ducks in a row. Its a good idea to periodically check that you know where all the stray bolts and nuts belong. But if you have been putting them back in after part removal like I told you to, you wont have a hard time with this.
|08-23-2007, 06:41 PM||#5|
Most manuals say to "remove the front section of the exhaust pipe", the cat. I didnt want to because I had a big leak at the header-cat connection and no gasket to replace the leaky one, so my leak wouldve multiplied. You can do this without removing the cat, BUT I DO NOT RECOMMEND IT lol it wouldve been A LOT easier without that pipe in the way.
Now would be a good time to check and see if you have enough room to get the trans in and out. I measured the new one and added jack height, then measured from the ground to the lowest point of the bumper. My jack stands on the highest setting was just barely enough height. We had to go through the wheel well anyway, so maybe this is moot...
Now we remove the starter. There are three 15mm bolts holding it on, the top one is pretty hard to get to but the bottom two are easily reached from the bottom. These three bolts also help hold the bellhousing to the motor, so remeber their location and orientation THEY ARE DIFFERENT. More on that later...
Now, if you look at the bottom of the last pic in the last post, you'll see a siver plastic cap. You need to remove this cap right now. This is how to get to it:
This is where the hole is
you can barely see my finger beyond the top of the cat pipe. The bolt in the foreground is the oil plug in the oil pan.
Why, oh why would we want to get to a hole that small in a space that tight? We need to remove the TC from the flywheel, of course! There are 4 studs in the TC held on by 15mm nuts to the flywheel. You can see them here.
Here is the ratchet placement.
I had to use the pipe, they were pretty tight.
Note the struggle
Remove them almost all the way, then use your fingers verrrry carefully or a pliers to grab the nuts out of there. Note the struggle.
If you drop one in the bellhousing, thats ok. Use a ratchet and a 19mm socket to turn the crank pulley to or fro and the nut will come up pushed by the next stud. If theres a lot of resistance all of a sudden like the nut got wedged somewhere, DO NOT GO NUTS ON IT, just go back and forth until the nut comes around.
Now that those four nuts are off, I would say you're about halfway there. Take a break and pat yourself and your helper on the back.
This next part (removing the trans) is difficult to do, but far more difficult to explain. And I have more words to say than pictures can describe. So bear with me. Feel free to PM me with questions.
Start here. Make a diagram of the bolts around the bellhousing. Mine is looking from the engine to the trans, dots are out of the page and x's are into the page.
Note that I drew the three starter bolt directions off to the side since the starter has to be installed before these can go in. Just a friendly reminder to myself. As you remove the bolts, set them on a table or on the floor in the diagram's configuration so you dont mix any of them up. DONT REMOVER THEM JUST YET wait till you have a jack under the trans.
Here's a head-on pic of the bellhousing if you need help.
Now you need to remove tension from the motor mounts. Use your big monkey wrench to turn the adjusting nuts on the engine brace to raise the engine and trans. Get it tight, go another full turn, and that should be enough.
Remove the "dogbone" lower mount. It may not want to come out of the car just yet, thats ok just get the bolts out.
Using your breaker bar and a 19mm socket, remove the two nuts from the driver side of the passenger mount, the ones holding the motor to the mount. Loosen them in steps so you dont put all the weight on one accidentally.
If you havent already, you need to prepare a jack to support the trans. Using a trans jack or a sheet of wood and a floor jack, place the wood toward the back of the trans, being sure to leave enough room to get past the K-member. The center of gravity is closer to the diff than the center of the trans, so keep that in mind when balancing it on the sheet of wood and when placing the jack under the wood. You want the head of the jack as close to directly under the center of gravity of the trans as possible.
This pic is a little premature, just imagine the trans is still connected to the motor...
Jack up the jack so that is starts to put pressure on the trans, but does not move it.
We had problems with the jack slipping on the wood since it was at such a sharp angle, so be ready with a hammer to knock the wood around. also be ready to bench press the trans if you need to relocate the jack. Its only about 170 lbs, so its not that hard to push up. This was the third hardest part of the job and required quick, efficient communication with my helper.
Now move to the driver side mount. Break free the four outer nuts, then remove them in steps.
Using a 21mm deep socket, slowly remove the center mount nut, ensuring the trans stays in place on the jack. Then the mount comes out.
Now, again in steps, break free, loosen, and remove the bellhousing flange bolts. You will probably end up scratching up your hands when doing the top three. Those top three flange bolts ALONE cumulatively took about 3-4 hours to un-install, re-install, and torque to spec.
Now you need to angle the engine/trans down a little, do this by raising the passenger side of the brace and lowering the driver side. I had the passenger mount studs even with the top of the mount throughout the time it was unbolted. This allowed enough range of motion to angle the motor down and accept the new trans.
Then, CAREFULLY and SLOWLY lower the trans, I went abouut 1/8-1/4 of an inch at a time. Make sure the flywheel isnt in the way. If it is, just keep lowering the driver side of the engine brace. Remember, you have to get those studs clear of the holes in the flywheel and the bellhousing clear of the edge of the flywheel. Soon the driver side of the trans will fit in the wheel well and you will be able to move the jack over (trans included) and drop it down. Be sure to keep a hand on the trans to make sure it is always balanced on the jack.
SUCCESS!!! If you got this far, you should be really proud of yourself, this is MAJOR surgery on your car so congrats!
Check to ensure the locating dowels are still on the engine block. There should be two I think...
TAKE A BREAK lol you deserve it.
Next post will have some little stuff to do while the trans is out and installation procedures....
|08-23-2007, 07:50 PM||#6|
damn pete thats quit the process, and the struggling looks very familiar lol, but once your all done with the tranny your car should be set for a long while! yove done so much work to it, are you ever gonna get it dynoed? m curious to know what hp you are makin
Chrenron 1 of 3
Velveeta Lover Shell#1
|08-23-2007, 10:04 PM||#7|
Well, heres my flywheel
You can clearly see the leak (the reason i swapped the trans)
Old vs. New
Next step is to transfer over the lower portion of the trans mount. Take off the nuts (I think theyre 19mm) and then use the 5/16 box-end to take out the studs.
Then put the studs in the new one and then the nuts. The Haynes manual has the torques for these.
Now prepare the trans on the jack and get it under the car. Pick a bellhousing flange bolt hole, and using the crank pulley and a 19mm socket, line up one of the flywheel holes where the TC studs go in on the radius line of the hole you picked. Do the same with one of the studs on the TC. This way, the two will line right up when you get the trans up in there. It worked the first time for me, I was SO HAPPY
The hard part about getting the new trans up is the driver side. The lower piece of the mount doesnt like to go in its hole, and the angle of the car doesnt match up to the angle at which you lift the trans.
So get it up to where it almost passes the mount hole, then rock it back CAREFULLY so you dont rock it off the jack and get the stud into the big hole.
BE PREPARED FOR FLUID LOSS
A note on putting bolts and nuts on: To avoid cross-threading, turn the bolt or nut BACKWARDS until you feel it click, then go forward.
For me, most things just kind of lined up real nicely on its own. It took a lot of shimmy-ing and shoving, but we didnt have to drop it and try again. Your helper is very important in this process to tell you whats going on where you cant see.
Once you have the mount piece sticking in there, it should become relatively easy to line up the TC/flywheel studs and the alignment dowels on the block. Try to get 2 or 3 or maybe 4 flange bolts started, NOT TIGHT. Once you get a few in there and the trans isnt able to rock anymore, it's time to put the dogbone mount back on. Then you can put the driver side mount back in, put on the four outer nuts, and screw on the center nut a few turns. Remember the trans is not at the right height right now, so theres no need to tighten it. Do all final torqueing of motor mounts when the engine is suspended only by the mounts later on.
Next is the starter and the flange bolts. Tighten them snug with a ratchet, then torque to 35 ft.lbs, you should prolly go from top to bottom since the motor is angled that way. Note the struggle with the top three.
Now, note the struggle. Again.
It's time to get those 4 flywheel bolts on.
It sucks. I was down there for a while, so long that my helper got bored and started taking random pics ...But keep at it, you're on the home stretch. If you drop one of the nuts, it will likely get wedged in somewhere, just go 90 degrees counter-clockwise, you'll hear it :clink: then go back around 90 degrees a little quicker, and it should be there. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT. I found it best to hold a deep socket in my hand with the nut in it, find the stud blindly (yeah, right lol) turn backwards, :click:, turn forward to tighten. I think theyre like 27 ft.lbs. Plug in that sensor on top the diff when youre all done while youre down there. It gave me a light at the end of the tunnel
Time to raise the driver side of the engine brace and lower the passenger side. Take your time and dont put too much pressure on the mounts before you get them tight. Torque to spec when the weight is completely off the brace.
goes in as easy as it came out.
line it up as straight as possible, use the top of the brake rotor to make a CONSTANT SOLID CONNECTION inside the CV joint, basically pushing into the trans, then hit the hub end of the axle with a mallet. DO NOT allow the CV to move in and out during this process, you will shock the inside components and quickly say bye-bye to the tripod. In the words of Steve at MSS: "Just be gentle."
Now everything big should be bolted up. Do the dipstick tube, attach the selector, attach the selector mount, attach the 4 remaning sensor harnesses you disconnected, attach the cooler lines.
Drop the pan, remove any remaining fluid, change the filter, clean the pan and the mating surfaces, and replace the pan using the new gasket from the kit.
Put the suspension back together. Put the splashguard back in. Put the wheels on.
Put the battery and intake back in.
HOLY CRAP YOU'RE DONE!!!!!
Drop the car down. Tighten the lug nuts. In these final stages its VERY IMPORTANT to take your time and make sure you dont forget anything.
Put 2-2.5 quarts of fluid in NICE AND SLOW if you make it gurgle or glug youre gonna introduce air to the system. Anyone who knows anything about transmissions (which you should if you did this job) knows that bubbles in trans fluid is BAD. So take your time. A quart takes about 2 minutes if you do it right.
Start the car. celebrate. 5 seconds later, shut off the car.
Put another quart in.
Start the car. celebrate. 10 seconds later, shut off the car.
Put another 1/2 quart in.
Start the car. Go into R, N, D, N, R, P waiting about 5 seconds between shifts. Check the dipstick. It should be pretty full. Drive around the block, you only need to go a mile. Make sure it shifts into second.
Get back home, make sure the motor is warm, put it in park, check the dipstick. Chances are you will need about another quart.
From MIN to MAX on the dipstick is approximately 1/2 quart.
Now, Enjoy your new transmission!!!
Check the fluid again in a day or 2 after a decent drive when the fluid is warm.
Thanks to all involved.
Flame on, I've got my fire suit on. Or you can praise and thank me, thats okay too.
As for my old trans, well someones gonna get a nice christmas present
Its for sale, and it runs FINE! All it needs is a new front oil seal and probably a shift solenoid or two pretty soon. Offers and lowballs welcome.
"Yeaaaahh shes got Eibach suspension and FR2 cams, intake and exhaust of course, and I put TWO trannys in her one time, but it ran a little slower from all the weight..."
lol jk jk
Have fun, thats what most important.
Last edited by illinipo; 08-23-2007 at 11:10 PM.
|08-23-2007, 10:17 PM||#8|
Chrenron 1 of 3
Velveeta Lover Shell#1
|08-23-2007, 10:25 PM||#9|
This is my pb album with all pics in it.
And also my picasa album.
|08-23-2007, 10:50 PM||#10|
That wagon needs some NAWZZZZZZ now.
Yes, that is a banana in my pocket.
Dan - gumpcrew #4
[BBS][Borla][Focus Central][Hella][K&N][Koni][Lentech][Wings West]
#23 STS Wiregrass Region SCCA
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|Parking lot Pimpin'...(56k ALOT OF PICS)||akmer||Ford Focus Builds & General Showroom||18||08-18-2007 10:28 AM|
|Finally pics of the 06 Ford racing suspension all settled. LOTS OF PICS!!!||focusin||Ford Focus Builds & General Showroom||40||02-19-2007 09:58 PM|
|For Sale: '01 ZX3 S2 Turbo ATX SCT (Long)||Leadfoot/S2||Archive||15||02-19-2006 03:10 PM|
|Love my new PZEV ATX! But...||Folkus||DURATEC Performance (2003-2011)||37||03-25-2004 10:01 PM|