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Old 07-22-2009, 12:57 AM   #1
afraziaaaa
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Duratec cylinder head rebuild with pics

Align cams using alignment bar. If the head were installed, this would be TDC assuming no cam adjustments were made (if with adjustable gears).

This was not necessary because the head was not installed. I did it just because.


Aligned


Cam caps removed and laid in place in exact position they will be re-installed in. Intake on bottom, exhaust in top of the pic. Followed cam cap loosening sequence in chilton manual.


Head with cam caps removed.


Cams removed, exposing tappets.


Tappets laid out in sequence. Will be re-installed in the same location they were removed from.


Tappets removed and exposing valve springs. Valve spring compressor mounted and ready to break the keepers loose for valve spring/valve removal.


Intake ports. They were black.


Compressing the valve spring. While doing this, I kept my hand on the valve face from the combustion chamber side of the head so the keepers would break loose. If there is no pressure on the valves while you compress the springs, they will not break loose and you will not be able to get the components out.


Removing the valve. Once you have the valve spring out, the valve comes out easily.


The valves were filthy and loaded with deposits. It only looks metallic in this pic because of the camera flash. It was really just black carbon build up.


Intake port just after valve removal.


Removing the valve seals with a 14mm socket.


Keep each valve train component in it's proper place. There are 16 valves total.


A shot of the valve seats after all valvetrain components have been removed. Exhaust valve seats on bottom, intake on top. 30mm and 35mm respectively.


Cleaning the valvetrain components.


Clean intake port.


Clean exhaust ports.


Lapping valves into the cylinder head after re-installing valve seals. The combustion chamber side has been cleaned as well.


Valve seat and valve before grinding.



After grinding



That's where I am at for now. I'll edit this post with more pics once I complete the rebuild. Feedback appreciated.


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Old 07-22-2009, 01:18 AM   #2
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nice work, good resource here for those who dont have a service manual
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:10 AM   #3
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Seems consistent with what I used to do rebuilding DOHC Japanese four-cylinder motorcycle top ends...good work and thanks for sharing, Afraziaaaa!
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:00 AM   #4
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2.0L or 2.3L
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:16 AM   #5
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This particlar head is off of a D20
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:25 PM   #6
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great thread
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:40 PM   #7
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You dont have to keep all componets togather if you grinding the seats and the valves , all springs are the same , all retainers and keepers are the same and your changing where the meet

Tom
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:49 PM   #8
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oooooo, the valve looks SOOO nice afterwards! man, must be some bad gas or something getting the carbon all over the valves like that.

wouldda been cool to see you drop it in some techron or something, see if they come clean lol.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:38 PM   #9
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oooooo, the valve looks SOOO nice afterwards! man, must be some bad gas or something getting the carbon all over the valves like that.

wouldda been cool to see you drop it in some techron or something, see if they come clean lol.
Lol @ techron. Hahaha. I think whoever owned the car this head came out of just didnt maintain very well.

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You dont have to keep all componets togather if you grinding the seats and the valves , all springs are the same , all retainers and keepers are the same and your changing where the meet

Tom
Thanks Tom. I didn't know that, but it makes perfect sense.

I guess the tappets aren't going to matter either. Valve lash gotta be checked.
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:22 AM   #10
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hey this is a great thread. thanks for posting this up!
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