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Old 03-21-2013, 08:41 PM   #11
AMMO-Duke
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Ok, Ok, I wont tease you any longer. How about I upload all the pics of the exhaust setup and afterwards, I will discuss all of the science and theories I used to build it. That way you wont be starving for pics!

Here goes:

THE COLLECTOR









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Old 03-21-2013, 08:45 PM   #12
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WASTEGATE

Will a round peg fit in a square hole? Yes, if you use a sledgehammer!







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Old 03-21-2013, 08:53 PM   #13
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TACKING UP THE PRIMARIES





PRIMARIES REMOVED/WELDED/READY TO WELD TO FLANGE

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Old 03-21-2013, 08:57 PM   #14
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COLLECTOR INSERT







PIPES HEATED AND FORMED TO INSIDE OF HEAD FLANGE

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Old 03-21-2013, 09:13 PM   #15
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HEADER DONE





DOWNPIPE AND WASTEGATE DUMP TACKED





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Old 03-21-2013, 09:18 PM   #16
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Ok, thats enough for tonight. Tomorrow I will discuss all of my theories on the exhaust setup and give you all the details/specs. After that, there is still lots more!
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:29 PM   #17
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GENERAL CONSTRUCTION NOTES

I chose to use mild steel for this project instead of stainless. The number one reason for this is cost. It would have cost me 3-4 times more to make this setup with stainless even after including the cost of coating the mild steel. I believe the big advantages of stainless is Heat Retention and Corrosion Resistance. Both of these can be overcome by using a high quality coating inside and out on the mild steel header. Other than that, I am not convinced that stainless is better. I have done research on the subject and it seems even the experts cannot completely agree which one is best. I do know that I have seen many stainless turbo headers crack and or break. Dont know if they were made from cheap materials, or too thin, or what. Just an observation.

I did use high quality steel, not the cheap stuff you find at part stores. The primary pipes are .060" thick and the 2.5 inch pipe used after the collector and for the downpipe is .070" thick. The majority of the welds are Oxy/Acetelyne. I used MIG on the head flange because it is easier to weld on the thick metal.

One of the first things people ask me is "how did you make those bends?". The answer is, I did not. What you do is buy high quality mandrel bent tubing and cut the pieces you need and weld together. This sounds simple, but is very difficult to make it work without controlling how the tubes are cut. So, I made the saw you see below. No matter where you want to cut the bend, the angle is perpendicular to the centerline of the pipe. This ensures that your bends fit together perfectly and do not have any funky angles affecting exhaust gas flow. Without this saw, It would be a nightmare to try and make a header correctly.



Somehow I lost the pics of painting the header...sorry. I used Eastwood Internal Exhaust Coating on the inside. It seemed to work well. I used Tech Line Black Satin coating on the outside. I was very impressed with this product. It is a true ceramic coating, not a can of spray paint. You need a sprayer or airbrush to apply. It goes on very nice and seems to be very durable. After 2 weeks of driving, looks exactly like it did when first painted. Both of these products are supposed to be a thermal barrier helping to retain heat inside the pipes.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:43 AM   #18
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That saw is awesome.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:23 AM   #19
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Need maor pics and videos.. k thx

Build looks quality so far though
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:36 AM   #20
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Agree. Props for something different and quality build! Any support for the turbo? I also run a side mount, there just a few out there and for a Duratec makes more sense. Is it too close to the valve cover?
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