Motor Blower Mystery

[02ztec]

Originally Posted by sailor

'Fraid not, without knowing where the leads are connected to & what setting on the meter (volts, ohms, range etc.)

Could it be anything other than the wiring harness or am I basically stuck bringing it to the dealer after putting in a bunch of parts(blower motor, resistor, heater fan switch)?? That's the only part I haven't replaced.

[sailor]

Well, you COULD start with a new car... (grin)

But for now, rechecking some things & looking for where you actually have power & ground through the circuit would be a cheaper start....

When you're baffled, it's time for a break, then recheck the Obvious you've checked already to start...

Fuses need an actual continuity check for example, done or not previously. And looking for power to & through them helps.

If my memory serves again, the fan motor gets battery power at one side of the connector so you should see battery voltage there with the other probe to a good ground.

The other side grounds it through the switch, so you should get good continuity to ground with the switch at #4.

Try the new fan motor with a set of jumpers to a battery (just in case, wouldn't be the first NG new part if it doesn't spin then!

If you get TOTALLY bored, check out Zen & the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance for a read that includes the scientific method as it applies toward fixing things....

(laughing yet?)

Good luck!

And remember, you'll ALWAYS end up kicking yourself when you find the answer & wonder why you didn't see it sooner!

(Could end up being a ground wire for the harness that got kicked loose from it's body connection.... The list becomes endless, so take it bit by bit.)

[02ztec]

Well, I'm happy to report that the Heater Blower Motor mystery has been solved..It turns out that the connector prongs on the new motor were pushed down when plugged in, meaning no contact was made with the plug. After realizing this, I brought the motor back to Autozone and swapped it for another one, only to encounter the same problem.

I ended up calling my local Ford Dealer and paid the extra $40 for the OEM brand. I hooked it up and BINGO, I'm in business.

The moral of the story is sometimes it's best to just bite the bullet and go with the OEM.