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Old 03-17-2013, 03:38 PM   #21
cylenotkyle
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Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
How are you checking for voltage at the fans? The fans will not come on until the engine is at 115C. You can't test the fans without the engine being hot.

There should also be a fan diode. Diodes are tricky to diagnose. You can do a resistance test, but a diode will only show resistance in one direction. The purpose of a diode is to prevent electricity from flowing in one direction while allowing it to flow in the other direction. This is so that your fan motors don't push electricity into the system backwards. Find the fan diode, remove it, and test for resistance. If you don't get any, then test it with the leads swapped. If you still don't get it, then the diode is bad.

Now, that's probably not the problem. Since your AC doesn't work, let's assume it's due to a low charge. Unplug your AC clutch, and secure the connector somewhere out of the way so it won't get caught up in the belt. Now find your low pressure switch which should be on top of the accumulator which is in the fender under the passenger side headlight. Unplug the electrical connector to the low pressure switch- it should only be 2 wires. Now using some scrap wire, bridge the two points on the LP switch. That will trick your AC system into thinking that it has a charge. This is why removed the AC clutch connector because running a compressor while the system has no charge will kill the compressor. Now the engine cooling fan should come on with the AC if the cabin air fan is set to at least 1.

That's a temporary fix, but it will keep you cool. To continue to diagnose your problem, you will want to use the electronic odometer trick to check to be sure that the engine temp sensor is operating correctly. You can also check the thermostat operation if it's working correctly. Key off, press and hold the trip odometer reset button. Turn the key on, and continue to hold the reset button until the odometer reads [test]. Release the button, and you're in test mode. Every time you press and release the odo reset button you'll scroll through one of 30 test functions. Look for the one that reads [20 C], and that will be the temp sensor readout in C. Some cars might have this function in F. If so, then it will read [60 F] or whatever the ambient temperature is at the time on a cold engine. It will remain in test mode until you turn the key off again, so you can start the engine and see what the temp readout is doing. What you should see in normal operation is the temp slowly climb up to about 95 C or 197F, which is the thermostat temp. Then temp will drop down as the thermostat opens. Temp will continue this cycle until the temperature stays above the thermostat rating. The fans will come on once the engine temp reaches 115C or so.

Now if you were overheating while the car was moving, then your problem is either a stuck thermostat or a bad water pump. I haven't seen how this car behaves with a bad water pump. I would think that it would overheat quickly. A bad temp sensor will make the car appear to be overheating quickly, but when you watch the temp it will jump dramatically. On a normal operating engine, the temp moves slowly. With a bad temp sensor it will jump quickly up to hot and might get even ridiculously hot like 200C. It might also never move. In either of these cases, replace the temp sensor.

I hope that helps you diagnose your problem. Let us know what you find out.
Is there a way you could show me a picture of the ac clutch is and how to bridge it? I'm pretty bad at this.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #22
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Here is my Focus


This is the 2.0 Zetec engine. DOCH.


The fuse panel here as been a pain in the ass, I have no power running to F2 which is the fan I believe. F6 has power and r16 only lights up on two of the female ports. There are three sides that dont respond to the test light.


This is just the actual fuse box, I replaced the fuses for the fans as well as the Relays




this is the cooling fan resistor that I replaced.



This is the old one which is clearly burnt out



we ran a wire to this connector for the fans from the battery and the fans kicked right on.




So far I have ran out of options and dont want to bring it to the dealership and pay almost a grand for them to fix 1 thing.
HELP
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:45 PM   #23
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I guess I should come and help you identify the problem......you have a bad relay or two. Possibly a bad connector......
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #24
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I guess I should come and help you identify the problem......you have a bad relay or two. Possibly a bad connector......
Those relys are new
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:11 PM   #25
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That leaves the wiring, between the CJB and the fans themselves
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:18 PM   #26
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That leaves the wiring, between the CJB and the fans themselves
What's the Cjb?

And I ran a 12 volt wire to the fans from the battery and they came on full blast.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:19 PM   #27
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Central Junction Box....fuse box under hood
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:21 PM   #28
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Central Junction Box....fuse box under hood
Do I have to replace the ports that the relays go into?
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #29
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You have to first find out which relay isn't receiving any power. You should not have to replace the ports unless they're burned....(melted) Now, you may, have to figure out if any of the female receptacles for the relays are tight....not loose fitting to the relays themselves. There is no power to F2.....one of the relays is not routing voltage to this fuse.........actually, I mis-spoke....BJB..(battery junction box)
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:33 PM   #30
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You have to first find out which relay isn't receiving any power. You should not have to replace the ports unless they're burned....(melted) Now, you may, have to figure out if any of the female receptacles for the relays are tight....not loose fitting to the relays themselves. There is no power to F2.....one of the relays is not routing voltage to this fuse.........actually, I mis-spoke....BJB..(battery junction box)
The test light lit up on both fan relays. But not all of the female receptacles on f2 lit up. Only two did. And the relys are tight fitting in there but the entire thing seems a bit shaky
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