Radiator fans not working

[cylenotkyle]

My car started to overheat so I pulled over and put water in my radiator thinking that was it. But no. My fans werent kicking on. I know the secondary one is for my AC(which I never use) But my primary one wasnt. I replaced the rely and nothing. I also replaced the fuse and check all connections. I turned on the AC to see if the secondary fan came on but it didn't either. Any ideas?

[Sponsor]

[FocusRus]

You have to put direct current to the fan main harness to check each fan's operation. Also, if fans work hooked up directly to battery, then check the fan relays.
R9 cooling fan
R10 cooling fan
R15 High speed fan (ac)
R16 low speed fan
D2cooling fan diode
Check these out...........

[whynotthinkwhynot]

Fuse? Check your owner's manual or look up a PDF owner's manual (guide) online and that will have fuse locations with circuit descriptions.

The 2 common problems for the Zetec engine are the cooling fan plug-in connector gets overheated, cracks, and sometimes the wires simply break off.

The second problem is that the cooling fan resistor pack goes out. In that case, the AC trick should work. However if your AC doesn't have a charge or it's too cold for the AC come on, or the cabin air fan isn't coming in- then the AC won't turn the fans on. There are ways to bypass the AC controls to force the AC circuit to work and the fan to come on. If you want that information, you have to be careful to return everything to proper working order before you hook your compressor up again.

It can also be a bad CHT, especially if your engine temp is not showing on the gauge, or not showing correctly. Use the electronic odometer test mode trick to monitor actual engine temp readings and see if those are anywhere close to real world. If you have a friend with an infrared thermometer, that will be helpful in double checking the reading. I would not be surprised to see about a 5-10C (all CHT readings are in C) difference between an infrared thermometer and the CHT reading using test mode. To get into test mode: key off, press and hold odo reset button, turn key on, continue to hold reset button until odometer reads [test]. Release, now each time you press and release the odo reset button you'll scroll through one of 30 test functions. You are looking for one that reads [ 15 C] or whatever your ambient temperature should be in C at the time with a cold engine. The odometer will remain in test mode until you turn the key to the OFF position so you can start the engine in test mode, drive around, and see what happens.

I would inspect the cooling fan fuse, then plug-in connector and harness first for obvious signs of damage. If those are ok, then the problem is elsewhere.

[cylenotkyle]

My ac doesn't work so I can't check it. I believe it is the resistor and ill be checking that out after work.

[cylenotkyle]

It turned out to be the Resistor, anyone know any local places around NOLA to get one?




Resitor

[FocusRus]

I would say the dealer......not available in auto part stores

[cylenotkyle]

Well I found a good one at a junk yard and its okay. But we checked the fuse with a check light and its not get power. We changed the fuse and still nothing. I did the direct connections from my battery to the fans and they work.

[BC_ZX3]

Which fuse are you checking? There are two for your model year; Fuse 2 and 6 in the battery junction box.

[cylenotkyle]

On the top flap of the fuse box under the hood is has a diagram for the fuses and relays. I checked the 30 volt fuse which had the picture of the fan and the relays for fan 1 and 2. The fuse for the 30 volt use has no power going to it. Is right next to the fuse for the battery.

[BC_ZX3]

This is an image of your battery junction box looking down from above for the 2000 model year. (It's from your owner's manual.) The relevant fuses are numbered 2 and 6. Check both. One is a 30 amp fuse; the other is 50 amps. R15 and R16 are the relay locations for the cooling fans.