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Old 06-14-2013, 03:53 PM   #41
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I submerged my filter in water in Texas, during a big storm. Started right back up, ran like shit for a bit and then ran fine. Toasted my TPS but that's like 20 bucks lol
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:07 PM   #42
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I thought the hydrolocking myth had been put to rest years ago? You would literally have to submerge the filter to ever worry about that.

You guys running a "Short Ram" set up might want to check your IAT's before and after. I suspect you wont be pleased with the results. I've done numerous tests on one of my dsm's as well as several other cars. "Modified" doesnt always mean better.

Even the k&n kit with heat shield did almost nothing on a heavily modified gtp. We performed numerous tests. Temps at idle or stopped at a stoplight were exactly the same as the stock air box. Temps were slightly lower at speed with the k&n. But at the track the temps didn't become lower until about the 1000ft mark. Making it nearly useless.

To have a true working cai you need a sealed box fed from the outside. With either a scoop or a some sort of duct work.

Personally im going to modify the stock airbox by deleting the resonator(for room) to move the airbox closer to the fender. Its sort of tucked up against the engine in the zetec. Move it away from the heat, then maybe run the snorkel down underneath the car to grab fresh air. Oh and k&n drop in filter of course.
So Temps where the same for both stock and sri. What about a CAI at idle or a light? Wouldn't the tubing used for a CAI be subjected to the same or even more heat within the engine compartment?

The key difference would be in open air runs. The SRI would be subject to what ever air flow was under the hood. the CAI would be able to theoretically provide cooler air initially but would be hampered by the tubing left under the hood.
For the best cold air you want your intake to have the least amount of exposure from the hot components. So in theory the best setup would be a hood scoop directly to a shielded insulated and enclosed SRI or panel filter setup with a cooling agent between the insulation and the piping. Like a water/methanol intercooler setup but without the intercooler just straight pipe.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:38 AM   #43
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After having a cai for over 70k I finally went back to the stock airbox. Don't miss the initial delay under wot with the cai.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:34 AM   #44
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After having a cai for over 70k I finally went back to the stock airbox. Don't miss the initial delay under wot with the cai.
The other disadvantage of a long CAI is that it is a longer runner then most convential air intakes.
Experiment time: Take a common garden hose usually 3/4 in in diameter and try to suck air through the hose. Then take a short piece of something hollow 3/4 inch pipe or cut the hose say to 10 inches (for demonstration purposes) and suck the air again. You will find it is notably easier with the shorter piece then the longer piece.
The stock box has a short resonator and a large box underneath the filter as close to the engine as possible. For an engine (short of a hood mounted ram air system right above the throttle body) it is the best setup.
Now for the last fun part. Turbo/supercharger cars benefit more from proper purposed, flowing and positioned intercoolers then they do from the initial intake tempurature and the less pressure/distance needed to pull in the initial air charge in general the more efficient a Turbo/super charger can be. But that is a whole lot of variables in that so please look up a good book on proper tuning of pressurized systems.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:48 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by daytonmvp23 View Post
So Temps where the same for both stock and sri. What about a CAI at idle or a light? Wouldn't the tubing used for a CAI be subjected to the same or even more heat within the engine compartment?
Yep temps at idle or stopped were exactly the same. Both heat soaked and showed 200+ degree intake temps. That was with the cone filter in the corner of the bay with a heat shield.

Which is why i would try to improve the stock air box before going with some aftermarket kit.

I bet adding a heat shield between the air box and the engine would go a long way. Keeping that radiant heat off the box. It already draws cool air in from the outside. Sure it could be improved but i would take a stock box over a short ram any day.

The car we tested the k&n kit on was recently switched over to a long route fender intake. Had some issues with the car so no info on the change yet.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:22 PM   #46
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Yep temps at idle or stopped were exactly the same. Both heat soaked and showed 200+ degree intake temps. That was with the cone filter in the corner of the bay with a heat shield.
Nice do have any real time temps while driving and if there is a difference based on speed?
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:55 PM   #47
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During a track pass temps were identical til about the 1000ft mark, for the last 300ft they began to drop and were usually 10* lower. These results may be skewed slightly by the fact that the headlight was out during these passes. Giving direct flow across the filter.

At speed is the only time it shined. Showing pretty consistent decrease. Typically 30* above ambient.

The car is now long route cai, but also has a front mount heat exchanger as well. So it still wont be apples to apples.



I've had similar results on my dsm as well. Short ram i seen 230* on a highway pull on a cool night.

After creating a box around the filter, fed it from underneath the car, and installing a phenolic heat barrier intake manifold gasket temps dropped to just over ambient during a pull. The change was massive.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #48
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Are you running a turbo or supercharger? Or just decide to put on the FMIC for giggles?
Only reason I ask because unless you are running a turbo/supercharger FMIC end up usually costing power due to disrupting flow as to be of use as a cooling mechanism.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:46 PM   #49
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Eaton gev 5 Blower on the gtp, with now an air to water intercooler and front mount heat exchanger.

DSM obviously turbo(E316g) with an ets fmic.
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