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Old 03-13-2013, 01:54 PM   #21
danny42984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FocusRus View Post
Fuel pressure should be 35 to 65 psi-key on, engine off........
The fuel pressure test is just what it is....variable voltage pump or not.
Now, one component we haven't looked at...which on a spi engine is directly related to the calculation of A/F is the coolant temp sensor...this engine uses a NTC thermistor cts to inform the pcm of the temp of the metal in the cyl head. That, coupled the with intake air temp sensor (part of the maf), and the throttle position sensor--work in conjunction to help the pcm determine the proper a/f mixture. What type of scan tool do you have again???
Scan tool is an Innova 3100. I do have all of the data saved in word format from one of the scans. Scan tool came with a trial membership to their diagnostic service type thing and thats what I saved all the scan info from. It has the freeze frame data and stuff in there as far as I can remember.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:27 PM   #22
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Update

I was checking the wiring as FocusRus suggested and did a thourough check of the plug going to the MAF and found I had no continuity from the black/blue wire to the female plug inside the connector. I repaired that and it got rid of the code for the MAF. Still has the code P0190 (fuel rail pressure sensor). The car now seems to run fairly well at times but starts to run badly intermittently and will sometimes idle down and almost die. I can sit and let it idle and it will intermittently have a light squealing sound from the fuel pump area and when that squealing starts the engine will slow down and run rougher..when the squealing stops the engine immediately speeds up. I did not notice the squealing pump before and not sure if it is something new or has been doing it already...the serpintine belt squeals some and my hearing is not the best anyway. I feel like I'm getting closer! Is the squeal from the pump common when they start to go out? or is this indicative of something more? Thanks for all the replys and suggestions!
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny42984 View Post
I was checking the wiring as FocusRus suggested and did a thorough check of the plug going to the MAF and found I had no continuity from the black/blue wire to the female plug inside the connector. I repaired that and it got rid of the code for the MAF. Still has the code P0190 (fuel rail pressure sensor). The car now seems to run fairly well at times but starts to run badly intermittently and will sometimes idle down and almost die. I can sit and let it idle and it will intermittently have a light squealing sound from the fuel pump area and when that squealing starts the engine will slow down and run rougher..when the squealing stops the engine immediately speeds up. I did not notice the squealing pump before and not sure if it is something new or has been doing it already...the serpentine belt squeals some and my hearing is not the best anyway. I feel like I'm getting closer! Is the squeal from the pump common when they start to go out? or is this indicative of something more? Thanks for all the replys and suggestions!
I had no continuity from the black/blue wire to the female plug inside the connector. I repaired that and it got rid of the code for the MAF.
MAF
Still has the code P0190 (fuel rail pressure sensor). The car now seems to run fairly well at times but starts to run badly intermittently and will sometimes idle down and almost die. I can sit and let it idle and it will intermittently have a light squealing sound from the fuel pump area and when that squealing starts the engine will slow down and run rougher..when the squealing stops the engine immediately speeds up. I did not notice the squealing pump before and not sure if it is something new or has been doing it already...
This is where it'll get tricky. I've been trying to figure out the fuel pressure sensor code, and right now I believe it to be a bad sensor -or- a damaged wiring connector to the sensor. Now, based on the new info you provided, I now suspect the fuel pump is a major concern due to the 'squealing' sounds it makes..... But before you REPLACE the fuel pump or even consider that as an option, first!!!, do a fuel pressure test! "The proof is in the pudding!"
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:51 PM   #24
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Sounds like the pump is on the way south...probably due to a dirty sock. But one thing is for sure, it's being overworked, and I think this is caused by the fuel pressure sensor. Remember.......it seems to clear up somewhat when tapping on the sensor......
FUEL PRESSURE TEST!!!!
Oh, by the way Danny, " You're doin it baby!!!!"
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FocusRus View Post
I had no continuity from the black/blue wire to the female plug inside the connector. I repaired that and it got rid of the code for the MAF.
MAF
Still has the code P0190 (fuel rail pressure sensor). The car now seems to run fairly well at times but starts to run badly intermittently and will sometimes idle down and almost die. I can sit and let it idle and it will intermittently have a light squealing sound from the fuel pump area and when that squealing starts the engine will slow down and run rougher..when the squealing stops the engine immediately speeds up. I did not notice the squealing pump before and not sure if it is something new or has been doing it already...
This is where it'll get tricky. I've been trying to figure out the fuel pressure sensor code, and right now I believe it to be a bad sensor -or- a damaged wiring connector to the sensor. Now, based on the new info you provided, I now suspect the fuel pump is a major concern due to the 'squealing' sounds it makes..... But before you REPLACE the fuel pump or even consider that as an option, first!!!, do a fuel pressure test! "The proof is in the pudding!"
Yep, gonna go rent a fuel pressure tester tomorrow or Friday at the latest (good call on the sensor connector..I'll check it too). I will be sure to keep watching the pressure tester till it does its squealing thing to see if it drops then. Is there any certain requirement a tester will need for the Focus? The last car I tested was an older Mazda 626 and it just hooked up with a rubber hose. I read the Focus has a fitting near the firewall I think.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:43 PM   #26
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Freeze frame data

Thought I'd add this Data...not sure what the fuel rail pressure should be but seems low..


Freeze Frame Information Close Details
Parameter Description Results
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored- P0190
Fuel System 1 Status- Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status -Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value -59.61 %
Engine Coolant Temp -161.60 F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 3.91 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Fuel Rail Pressure -19.14498 psi
Engine RPM 2,001.00 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:30 PM   #27
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Just a standard fuel pressure tester. If you don't have the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, then you have to tee in @ the fuel filter. You're in open loop, cold engine, and there's a lean condition indicated by STFT@ 3.91%. Now at that particular point, the air leak isn't major. The thing here is....the STFT 3.91% is probably due to the 2000 rpm @ idle-----this is too high-or- was it recorded while driving. Do this; redo the live data record at idle, but you need to allow for the engine to warm up...at which time the 02 sensors can heat up and give some data. Open loop...open loop... 2000 rpm..at idle? I need more info. If the engine warms up and goes into closed loop....we can get somewhere with a little more data. I'm thinking that you still have some type of air leak somewhere...egr maybe....could explain the high rpm. Also, if the loping happens during a record data session, we could see more related data. Now as for the (neg) fuel pressure...if the scanner is accurate....you're well below the "minimum" threshold.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:54 PM   #28
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Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
I guess you weren't driving.....where is the throttle position (%) at idle? Looks like around 25 % or so.......
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
I guess you weren't driving.....where is the throttle position (%) at idle? Looks like around 25 % or so.......
I guess the data was recorded while I was holding the throttle open a little, I does not idle higher than it should. I didn't start the engine while the scanner was hooked up..I had cleared the codes when I repaired the MAF to see if the code would stay cleared. I fired it up and let it run till the cel came back on. While it was running I did vary the throttle on it and put it in gear to simulate a load so the cel would come on if it was going to. So, should I clear the codes, let it warm up completely,then shut it off then read codes? Sorry I'm not familiar with code readers yet but will study up on it now that I have one.

Also, when you say "tee into the fuel line at the fuel filter" do I need to actually have the side of line going to engine hooked up too or can I just hook the tester to the line coming from tank? Thanks for all the help!

Last edited by danny42984; 03-14-2013 at 06:20 AM. Reason: add info
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:51 AM   #30
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Tee in either before or after the filter.....hopefully, there is a shrader valve on the fuel rail (opposite) the fuel pressure sensor. Also, turn the key on, engine off...reset cel....then start engine...let idle til warm. You can enter live data mode on the scanner to watch warm up data. And if possible, do not touch the throttle.....let it idle on it own and if needed apply a little throttle to help warm the engine up. Now when the system goes into closed loop...start recording or when water temp hits say 180-190 or above. If it will stay running.......run the engine say 12 - 15 mins. I interested in whether or not the system switches from open to closed loop......
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