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Old 03-05-2013, 10:30 AM   #11
6SPD_soul
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You need to be on the lookout for problems in the wiring going to the coil pack also, here's a good explanation of this that just came up today from BCZX3:

When you get a misfire in cylinder 1 and 4 as a pair (or 2 and 3 as a pair) it's usually indicative of an ignition primary circuit problem since the Ford "wasted spark" ignition system fires the plugs in those groupings. Of the three wires comprising the ignition coil connector, one of the two thinner outer wires should show physical damage, chafing, splitting or corrosion. (The thicker middle wire is 12V supply.)

Easiest thing to do is to simply tug on the wires; they usually break or come apart if bad.

If the problem is severe and persistent enough, eventually you'lll throw a DTC code - P0350, P0351 or P0352.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:35 AM   #12
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the pigtail on the coil is commonly an issue...the way the wires are routed they are pulled downward right off the plug connection to the coil and often the insulation on the wires cracks/breaks exposing raw wire.....the current can jump accross these exposed wires causing spark issues. I'd inspect the pigtail and remove the coil....if there are any cracks in the housing of the coil itself then it is bad. A brand new coil from your local auro-parts store should be around $80 if I remember correctly.

if you find issues with either of those and make the necessary repairs and still have issues and want to swap the computer, PM me your computer code and if you have auto or manual trans and I can most likely get you an ECU used for under $100
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:08 PM   #13
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Thank you ... the wiring harness and other places was checked in detail according to the dealer, they went through a series of codes ( might be on my paperwork) and began eliminating them in their words.

I have looked at ECU (PCM), coils, and even CAT pricing ... they were wanting to charge me an incredible amount for these... .they can be gotten much, much less.

Question however, if I don't success fixing what kind of $$$ would this vehicle be worth approximately?

Very clean car, nice paint, clean interior, really looks good for it's age.... only problem are these parts of the motor. Tow truck guy of course gave me his number if I decided to sell.....ballpark on this? Could I expect at least a grand?
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:25 AM   #14
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I certainly wouldn't give a grand for a car not running. I'm going to make you take the hit so I can fix it for $50 and drive the crap out of it.......................the best looking car in the world is worthless if not running, that IS their value.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:58 AM   #15
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What codes?
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:20 AM   #16
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I'm hitting my local junkyard saturday, so let me know if you need an ECU....I can grab you one for around $75 (FAR cheaper than dealer)
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:18 PM   #17
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Codes that triggered on the car: P0351, P1137.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #18
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I looked at some of the PCM's on-line... do they need to be programmed to the car?
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9erFaithful View Post
...the wiring harness and other places was checked in detail according to the dealer...
I have looked at ECU (PCM), coils, and even CAT pricing ... they were wanting to charge me an incredible amount for these...
And you trust these guys?

P0351 - Wiring to the coil has an open/short or coil has an internal open. $50
P1137 - O2 sensor wiring has an open or O2 sensor is toast $50
= $100 + your time to fix.

---> Faulty PCMs don't store or allow the retrieval of Diagnostic Trouble Codes <--- It's like a dead person telling you how they're feeling.

But hey, I'll take your vehicle off your hands for $100 put another $100 into it and flip it for $1000. Tow truck guy seems to know something you don't...
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #20
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On my ranger, the only ford I've had a pcm fail on, it still threw codes. But I knew is was the pcm because the codes made no sense. (i.e. auto trans codes but I had a manual, and codes specific to the 2.3L motor, EGR codes when there was no EGR system) I would definitely not replace it until the coils and wiring were dealt with. Don't sell it, taking the easy was out is never the best option. I'd pay like 800 for it, just for parts, because nobody is going to believe you when you tell them why it doesn't run. I wouldn't.
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