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Old 03-15-2013, 05:51 PM   #21
KibaWolf
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Originally Posted by OPsDad View Post
I had, and did again, and it's not clear to me still, but perhaps that is my fault. If the lamps draw 55w at nominal 12v, and the ballasts draw 55w at a nominal 12v, the resistance MUST be equal. Something is not making sense. The resistors make sense with 35w ballasts. I'm missing information to fully understand. It all comes down to "twinkle, twinkle, little star, E is equal I times R"... or the P variant thereof, P being a function of E and I, and equally effected by R.
okaie lets me explain better here, what happen is when you are decelerating with the car, the voltage sent to the headlight is only 9 to 9.5 volts, which is not sufucient for the balast, so the light would turn off when decelerating, so you cannot plug it directly, that why you need the relay, so when you put a relay, its draw the 12v directly from the battery so even when decelerating, the baterry allways supply 12v and over. so when you put a relay, only the trigger circuit of the relay goes by the original car wiring , and this trigger circuit only draw a few watts and can work down to 8 volts without stopping working. so when you are decelerating, the relay still continue to work since tis doesnt need constant 12v. plus since the trigger circuit only draw like 10 watts or so, its give out a bulb out error, so this is the reason why you need those resistors to simulate the full 55w.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:54 PM   #22
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okaie lets me explain better here, what happen is when you are decelerating with the car, the voltage sent to the headlight is only 9 to 9.5 volts, which is not sufucient for the balast, so the light would turn off when decelerating, so you cannot plug it directly, that why you need the relay, so when you put a relay, its draw the 12v directly from the battery so even when decelerating, the baterry allways supply 12v and over. so when you put a relay, only the trigger circuit of the relay goes by the original car wiring , and this trigger circuit only draw a few watts and can work down to 8 volts without stopping working. so when you are decelerating, the relay still continue to work since tis doesnt need constant 12v. plus since the trigger circuit only draw like 10 watts or so, its give out a bulb out error, so this is the reason why you need those resistors to simulate the full 55w.
I think you cleared it up for me. Thanks. +1, unless I gave you cred previously and therefore can't.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:12 PM   #23
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No problem sir lol, I am a car technician in real life so im used to people asking me question like this
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:10 PM   #24
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No problem sir lol, I am a car technician in real life so im used to people asking me question like this
I hear you. You would really enjoy listening to me put my physicians on the spot. I won't let them give me less than the full explanation of anything.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #25
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Im pretty surprised that I ordered my fog light HID kit on a friday night and ive just checked my shipping and its allready arrived in the US wow, they work in the weekend now lol, I will most probably receive it this monday afternoon. oh and since my dad saw my HID hes interested in them so we ordered a bi xenon kit for his 2007 ford F150 and we will probably install it on his truck this week in same time as my fog light HID
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #26
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oh yea, look what just arrived hehe, my 35w 10,000k for my fog light and my dad 55w 6000k Bi-Xenon H13 for his Ford F150 :P we will probably install both tonight!

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Old 03-18-2013, 12:49 PM   #27
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oh yea, look what just arrived hehe, my 35w 10,000k for my fog light and my dad 55w 6000k Bi-Xenon H13 for his Ford F150 :P we will probably install both tonight!

They won't be fog lights anymore, not at 10,000k. Just sayin'!
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:34 PM   #28
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They won't be fog lights anymore, not at 10,000k. Just sayin'!
you told me in another thread allready lol, no need to repeat yourself, as I say my fog are for car shows mate :)


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Old 03-18-2013, 07:38 PM   #29
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you told me in another thread allready lol, no need to repeat yourself, as I say my fog are for car shows mate :)


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Sorry, excuse redundancy. Senior moment, most likely. I get those with increasing frequency.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:45 PM   #30
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As promised, here are the picture of the fog light HID install, and a video of a general tour of my car (if you just wanna see the HID part skip to 2:55) or else you can watch the whole video showing a little bit my car and mods I made.

the dissasembly, with my nice lil gun :P



got access to everything from the bottom now
Left


Right


Old Sylvania ZXE out (still working after allmost a full year)


new bulb in


Balast mounted on the left (its bolted right over the big connector that is clipped on the fog light assembly, I simply moved the connector away and there was plenty of room for the slim balast to bolt there)


Left balast mounted (since there was not enough small bolt on the frame, I used one of the fogm light assembly bolt (torx) to put put my balast on it, it is right next to the washer fuild reservoir as you can see)



This is how they light up with and without the low beams 55w 6000k (fogs are 35w 10,000k)





Without the fogs light on


With the fog light on


Here is the actual video of the tour of my car (skip to 2:55 if you just wanna see the HID part. I do show my sound system power at the end of the video too )

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

The only thigns not mentioned in the video are my white plasti dipped 18" rims (not installed yet) and my windows tint (50% front, 20% everywhere on the rear)
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