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Old 03-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #11
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blocks dont just bolt in...
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:34 PM   #12
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You will have to buy a built block which will cost x2 to x3 the price of buying the rods and pistons and putting arp bolts in it your self. Find the eagle rods and JE pistons with a 9:1 compression you can find a combo deal for $800 - $900.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:42 PM   #13
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okay man, sit down get comfy, get a cup of tea. this is gonna be a book.

if your friend is going to keep the automatic transmission he is either going to have to make some expensive changes to the transmission using lentech components or will have to keep the power level very low (200whp max). otherwise he can try to do a manual transmission swap. it would also be nice to know whether or not the engine is the DOHC or SOHC. if it is the SOHC then i highly recommend that he ditch that car ASAP. those engines do not respond well at all to hard driving and in a nut shell are notorious for blowing up for no apparent reason. they drop valve seats alot

if you build the transmission to take more power your next limitation will be the pistons and rods. the stock engine will hold around 250whp/tq. that will put a turbo kit at around 12psi and is roughly a 125 shot of nitrous. the factory head gasket is the ONLY head gasket you should EVER run in one of these cars even if you are making 700whp. if you want to go beyond 250whp you need to buy low compression FORGED pistons and rods. massive has the best deal on supertech pistons right now and CFM has the best deal on eagle rods. if you replace pistons and rods you will also need ARP head studs, main studs, and i recommend flywheel bolts too. eagle rods come with ARP rod bolts. you will also need a complete upper and lower gasket set. no point in going through the trouble of rebuilding the engine with forged bottom end without replacing all the gaskets. i would also highly recommend a new oil pump and water pump at the same time.

get the head cleaned up but leave it STOCK. you can make more power on the stock head simply by spending a little more for a better turbo and cranking the boost up a little higher than you would make by doing a port and polish and 5 angle valve job with oversized valves and running on lower boost. that is nice if you just want to get it done but its unnecessary.

at this point your ENGINE is capable of holding around 650-700whp. pushing the power farther than that will require a billet crankshaft because much over that power range the stock crank will break. the stock block will hold at least 787wtq. there is/used to be a stronger block available called a WRC or CGI block but there is no real point to it since the stock block will hold way more power than anyone in their right mind would even need or want.

however at this point your FUEL system will only support around 300-330whp/tq. you can get a kenne bell boost a pump and might be able to push the stock fuel system to 380whp/tq TOPS. anything beyond that and you will need to go to some sort of return style fuel system. there are a number of ways to do this. you can rig your stock tank to do it but you cannot EVER run it down to below 1/2-1/4 of a tank otherwise you will starve your engine of fuel. you can remove the stock gas tank and put a fuel cell in the back of the car. its easiest to do this and put the fuel cell in the spare tire's spot in the trunk. but doing this can be pretty expensive and you no longer will have a working fuel gauge and you will have to fill the cell by popping the trunk. the stock filler tube will go to nothing. the third option is something called a surge tank or swirl tank. you leave the stock gas tank and run a line from it to a small fuel cell under the hood with its own big fuel pump and return system that feeds the engine. the stock gas tank constantly feeds the small cell and when it is full it feeds excess fuel back to the stock tank. when you stomp the gas the small cell starts to empty but you will never be able to stay in the gas long enough at that power range to completely empty the cell. once you get out of the throttle the stock gas tank and fuel pump refills the small cell. this is the cheapest and best method i think. you still fill the gas tank from the stock location, you keep your spare tire, and you still have a working fuel gauge AND you can run the tank all the way down to empty if you choose to.

the size of the fuel injectors you will have to use will depend on how much power you plan to make. if your friend does a manual transmission swap what clutch he gets will also be determined by his power goals.

an automatic transmission is the BEST for turbo because it is faster. you dont loose boost in between gears and you can have trans brake. it is however more than triple as expensive. cost of building a manual trans to hold 500whp is about $1000-$1300 depending if you use an aluminum flywheel or not and that doesnt include labor. cost of a automatic to hold 500whp is at the MINIMUM $3000 and i dont think that includes trans brake or labor.

for an affordable turbo kit, just keep your eyes peeled on the buy/sell/trade section of this website. on occasion one will sell for as little as $1500 but most of the time they cost over $2200. if your friend is willing to wait until after may 25th of this year i will have almost everything needed for a turbo build up for sale. i bought a kit awhile back that i have ended up not using.

hope that book helps

Chase
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:23 PM   #14
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So if you go passed 787wtq on the block, what breaks?
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:39 PM   #15
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The block.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:43 PM   #16
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The block.
No shit Sherlock but what is going to break on the block. Will it break on the cylinder walls or some where else
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:51 PM   #17
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No shit Sherlock but what is going to break on the block. Will it break on the cylinder walls or some where else
Guessing the crank would break first.


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Old 03-09-2013, 01:04 AM   #18
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No shit Sherlock but what is going to break on the block. Will it break on the cylinder walls or some where else
Play nice.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
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So if you go passed 787wtq on the block, what breaks?
im not sure where or how or in what order it would break. im just saying that about 700 is the furthests anyone has pushed the stock crank with a forged bottom end. there is a guy in puerto rico that has a 787wtq focus that as far as i know has been struggling to keep the crank in one piece but has never busted a block and is running the stock block. i think the block would probably be fine until at least 850-900whp or maybe more. but why are we even speculating these power levels? who the hell is going to do this build? not me unless suddenly a billtet crank comes available for about a grand.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:13 AM   #20
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blocks dont just bolt in...
I don't care I can fab anything
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