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Old 06-15-2013, 04:06 AM   #21
Kodyston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Kodyston - that 14.1-14.2 sounds good, is the idle bumping up when you turn up the fan?

It's supposed to increase via the IAC when the extra load is put on the alternator.

That pigtail you played with could still have an issue if it doesn't. AFAIK that's the source the computer uses to bump up the idle when needed due to increased electrical load.

Just another thought, getting a free battery load test would still be the first step just to make sure the "basics" are OK.

Luck!
Yeah the 14.1/14.2 is pretty good. And I had 14.4 all night tonight and sometimes a little higher at stop lights (14.5 spiking to 14.8 and maybe even a slight 15 every once in a blue moon very fast and not staying there but for a short short second) with my lights on with fog lights and radio at the same time.

I used the heater to clean some fog off my windshield and it dipped down to 13.something and went right back up to 14.2 or .3 and stayed pretty constant. Didn't try blower on 2, 3, or 4 tho. But I did sit in a parking lot and turned on the a/c (blower on 1 and 2) with radio, lights and fogs and interior lamps and I had 13.8 - 14.0. But when I turn all that stuff on one at a time it will dip in the 13's and I think I saw a 12 a couple of times. But it shot right back up to 14+ with dash lights dimming like usual in and out. I have noticed a couple of times that when I crank the car my high speed fans kick on immediately... and the car is cold. Not even above C on the dash. It seems kinda odd to me, but they kick off before it gets to operating temp after a couple minutes after I start it. I don't think it's a big deal. But IDK.

When I turn on the blower for heat and a/c the rpm's will dip under 800 and lights will dim and then return to mormal. It doesn't rise like you asked. Is that a problem with the IAC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
First of all, not possible to drive a car on a bad alternator for days.
Second, there are only 6 cells in a 12v battery; each measuring 2.1 volts. So if 1 cell dies you loose 2.1v at rest; so on a Volt Meter you'll see ~10v.

Also, there should be a 'greasy' coating on battery terminals and clamps. Either dielectric grease or wheel bearing grease works well.
Well... the battery light was on and off a lot for 3 days before the car wouldn't start so I would assume it was just running off of battery... didn't know it wasn't possible...

And I got rid of all of the grease and whatnot that was on mine and made it all shiny and stuff and it seems to be working a lot better... what should I do? Put a recommended grease back on it and see what happens?
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:08 AM   #22
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:46 AM   #23
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That wasn't the response we wanted H.....lol

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Old 06-15-2013, 05:59 AM   #24
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lol Yeah I read what you posted first amc and I tried to quote it and it shows what it says now and I was like WTF? lmao So I said the hell with it. I didn't realized you changed it to that. lol
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:34 PM   #25
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Greasing the terminals, after cleaning & re-installation, is good to prevent or reduce future corrosion.

If idle drops with an added electrical load, then bumps back up to normal, the IAC is doing it's job. My description prob. wasn't too good (grin). IAC acts like an automatic foot on the throttle, changing engine power settings to adapt to different loads to maintain a consistent speed.

When everything is working right, you shouldn't see TOO much variation in voltage while operating (there's always some). I think amc mentioned the battery earlier, that reserve of power helps smooth things out - so the battery test is still a good idea.

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Old 06-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #26
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I see. Well I guess my IAC is okay then. Yesterday it was really hot here and I was running the a/c. When my high speed fans kick on my voltage will drop as low as 10.1 volts and it will take a few seconds to get it back up to at least 13.9 or 14.1 or .2 volts when the blower is on, and when it does, you can tell a significant difference in how much air is coming out of the vents until the voltage rises. When I'm at idle I sometimes have to rev the car up a little bit just to get it to jump back up to at least 13.something. But without the heater or a/c on the car does great only when a high speed fan kicks on it jumps down in the 12's and quickly jumps back up to 14.2 or so. With nothing on it's around 14.4 and it fluctuates a lot from 14.2 to 15 most of the time. And even with just the head lights on they flicker enough to notice at night with nothing else on and my gauge cluster flickers too and it's still fluctuating in the 14's while doing so. I'm guessing this is just a battery problem. I'll have a battery test done here in a few minutes at Advance Auto and see what they say and I'll let everyone know later tonight what the test says. Pretty sure it will say replace battery.
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:56 PM   #27
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Okay. Just went to Advance Auto. (I was only a block away, lol) Here's what the paper says.

Results: Bad cell - Replace
Voltage: 10.72
Measured: ---- CCA
Rated: 590 CCA
Temperature: 104 degrees F

Recommend battery replacement prior to full system test with EXP-1200.
Battery fails to meet industry specifications.

So yeah... I figured I had a bad cell. lol But still cranks fine. Guess I'll just save up and get a new one. I was thinking about a yellow top Optima. The guy at advance said they have started cycling in some batteries like Optima ones but they don't use the circular cell design. I think he called them "glass" something. I can't remember what he said. Anyone know?
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodyston View Post
Okay. Just went to Advance Auto. (I was only a block away, lol) Here's what the paper says.

Results: Bad cell - Replace
Voltage: 10.72
Measured: ---- CCA
Rated: 590 CCA
Temperature: 104 degrees F

Recommend battery replacement prior to full system test with EXP-1200.
Battery fails to meet industry specifications.

So yeah... I figured I had a bad cell. lol But still cranks fine. Guess I'll just save up and get a new one. I was thinking about a yellow top Optima. The guy at advance said they have started cycling in some batteries like Optima ones but they don't use the circular cell design. I think he called them "glass" something. I can't remember what he said. Anyone know?
AGM. Absorbent Glass Mat. Its a super light weight battery and they're pretty powerful. As all of our batteries in our cars go out due to age, we get AGM batteries. I'm next on the list for one, but my father's Miata has one (mounted in the trunk for weight distribution)

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Old 06-16-2013, 01:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miztaken1312 View Post
AGM. Absorbent Glass Mat. Its a super light weight battery and they're pretty powerful. As all of our batteries in our cars go out due to age, we get AGM batteries. I'm next on the list for one, but my father's Miata has one (mounted in the trunk for weight distribution)

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Ahh YEAH That's what he called it. hahaha I'm pretty forgetful sometimes. He said they are a little cheaper then the Optima ones, but still a lot of money for a battery. But I guess you get what you pay for on most stuff now-a-days. So i'm guessing you can mount it however you want it like an Optima, or does it have to be sitting up? He said he wasn't sure if you could or not.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:44 PM   #30
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AGM is not lightweight.
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