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Old 06-08-2013, 11:39 PM   #11
iminhell
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Zombie bump,


I ended up solving my issue just a bit ago, or so it seems for now.
Ended up being a bad Spark Plug Wire. It was fitting to the ignition coil a little loose, other 3 felt good. Dug around and found an old aftermarket wire and replace the bad one.
Lights don't dim anymore WOT/high RPM.
My theory is that the added amperage the ignition was sucking up caused something to go awry with the electronics, interference and such.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:55 AM   #12
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Zombie bump,


I ended up solving my issue just a bit ago, or so it seems for now.
Ended up being a bad Spark Plug Wire. It was fitting to the ignition coil a little loose, other 3 felt good. Dug around and found an old aftermarket wire and replace the bad one.
Lights don't dim anymore WOT/high RPM.
My theory is that the added amperage the ignition was sucking up caused something to go awry with the electronics, interference and such.
How interesting... mine does the same thing... But, I just recently put new plugs and wires and my headlights still dim along with my gauge cluster dimming and flashing in and out at idle. I did the odometer dealer test thing and mine drops as low as 10 volts (for a sec or two) when a fan kicks on and when I have the heater or ac on. and it's only charging no higher than 13.8 or .9 no matter what...
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:47 PM   #13
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How interesting... mine does the same thing... But, I just recently put new plugs and wires and my headlights still dim along with my gauge cluster dimming and flashing in and out at idle. I did the odometer dealer test thing and mine drops as low as 10 volts (for a sec or two) when a fan kicks on and when I have the heater or ac on. and it's only charging no higher than 13.8 or .9 no matter what...
Say Kodyston, your problem may lay in the battery......sounds like low cca's........remember, the alt's job is to replenish the battery's reserves......not run a 90-100% duty cycle. That damn blower motor pulls alot of amps from the battery. And if you have any poor grounds......things tend to "heat" up a bit in the supply wiring. Fft......
I tell you what bro, I killed a new altenator in 3 weeks cause my sound system and ac kept my battery low and so the alt ran a high duty cycle tryin to keep up. Now I'm somewhat iffy on running the system at all....in fact I just took out the sub box this morning. Shoot, I did a Super big 3 upgrade and upsized every ground wire I could find and I'm still jittery....lol
And like you I see 13.5-13.7 volts constantly when running the ac....of coarse its only 95 to 200 degrees here in z big easy....lol

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Old 06-12-2013, 04:51 PM   #14
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I know you're out there lurkin.....amc49.....I can feel your presence....the force is strong with you.....lol

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Old 06-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #15
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Well last Sunday I was tired of seeing 13.6V and 13.7V so I took my terminals off my battery and cleaned the connectors and the terminals themselves for like an hour (no joke) with a wire brush. It kinda felt like the connectors and terminals had an oily substance on them, so I got all of that off and wired it back up. Then I took my alternator pigtail off and took a tiny flat headed screwdriver and shoved the wires in on the back of pigtail. Plus, within the 2 hours I'm messing around with it, I have a battery charger on the battery slowly charging it up. Cranked the car up while doing the dealer test and it was reading 14.8V and even spiking up to 15 volts. But today is Thursday (4 days later) and I'm only charging at 14.1 or 14.2 volts now. Turn on the A/C, when I get hot or even the heat at night to clear the fog off the windshield, any higher than 2 or 3 notches on the dash and the dealer test shows anywhere from 10.2 volts to 12.whatever. I did have a DTC low battery voltage (can't remember the number right off hand) but after I cleaned the terminals I'm getting a DTC NONE. So I guess It's decent for now and where I had the battery unhooked it cleared the code and it hasn't came back yet...

My guess is when my alternator went out on my last August 2012 and I drove on battery for 3 days before I realized my alternator was "fried", I "fried" some battery cells along with it. When I get some extra cash I'll have to go get a new battery to see if that solves anything. I'll keep everyone updated whenever I do. lol Money is hard to come by now-a-days. haha
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:31 PM   #16
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I know you're out there lurkin.....amc49.....I can feel your presence....the force is strong with you.....lol
Hahaha! I thought I was the only one that could feel his presence. lmao
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:33 PM   #17
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Kodyston - that 14.1-14.2 sounds good, is the idle bumping up when you turn up the fan?

It's supposed to increase via the IAC when the extra load is put on the alternator.

That pigtail you played with could still have an issue if it doesn't. AFAIK that's the source the computer uses to bump up the idle when needed due to increased electrical load.

Just another thought, getting a free battery load test would still be the first step just to make sure the "basics" are OK.

Luck!
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:38 PM   #18
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My guess is when my alternator went out on my last August 2012 and I drove on battery for 3 days before I realized my alternator was "fried", I "fried" some battery cells along with it. When I get some extra cash I'll have to go get a new battery to see if that solves anything. I'll keep everyone updated whenever I do. lol Money is hard to come by now-a-days. haha

First of all, not possible to drive a car on a bad alternator for days.
Second, there are only 6 cells in a 12v battery; each measuring 2.1 volts. So if 1 cell dies you loose 2.1v at rest; so on a Volt Meter you'll see ~10v.

When a battery drops voltage under load it means the Electrolyte is not releasing enough stored energy. It's basically wore out. The other choice is the lead plates are deteriorated and the internal resistance has risen. Either condition requires replacement of the battery.


Now, can a weak battery cause lights and such to dim at idle?
Yes.
This is because the alternator is not working to full potential at idle. So when you stress it the battery does the job of adding the demanded Amperage to hold a stable Voltage. When the battery is weak it's unable to sustain that Voltage and things don't work correctly.


So yes, test the battery. Odds are it's bad.


Also, there should be a 'greasy' coating on battery terminals and clamps. Either dielectric grease or wheel bearing grease works well.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:03 PM   #19
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Wheel bearing grease.....haven't heard that one for sometime.....but it works for damn sure.

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Old 06-14-2013, 01:08 AM   #20
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Vaseline used to be recommended, when most folks had that in their home & no car supplies on hand.

I might draw the line at Brylcream though.

Baking Soda & Water is cheaper "Battery Terminal Cleaner" to wash off acid seepage than an official spray can.

(Grin)
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