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Old 02-27-2013, 07:26 PM   #11
JJMcKinney
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Ok so here is the latest, I smacked the tank and nothing, when turning it over today it sounded like it tried to catch but just couldn't get there. The cam is turning at normal speed so I really don't think its a timing belt. It's like its trying to start from the #3 cylinder instead on 1. I'm at a loss at this point other then the crank position sensor.

I also forgot to mention the idler pully dropped it's barrings around the same time and I have replaced it already. So at this point out of things to try
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:49 AM   #12
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I was also thinking it could be a bad cap and rotor, but since I do have good spark doubt that.
Umm...then change the points and condenser and set the point gap to spec?

Seriously, sounds like you may have a fuel delivery problem as already mentioned. Look harder for the Scraeder valve; SPI engine should have one, if your car is stock.
Starting fluid doesn't always work well on fuel injected engines; that's a more useful technique on carbureted set ups. Fuel injection is generally more precise and "pickier".

Jetrinka already suggested the fuel cutoff inertia switch. Did you reset it?

Which idler pulley dropped it's bearings? Serpentine belt or timing belt? If any timing belt pulley spit out its bearings and you did the belt repair, I'd recheck your work. If the belt tensioner slackened off, your timing may obviously be off if only a little. Your compression readings were...?
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:10 PM   #13
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Cam turning means belt not broke but means nothing as far as jumped time. You can still have what appear to be somewhat acceptable compression with jumped time depending on teeth spacing on belt or chain (belt here). Jumped time can also crank what seems like at normal speed, not totally a problem weedout indicator there. I've seen jumped time idle and run up to 3500 rpm perfectly and then spit its guts out higher, drove one 60 miles home once, just slowly. It would even start perfectly. Depends on how far out it is.

Pull the cover and check the marks or wasted time on everything else. Check the water pump while in there.

'I smacked the tank and nothing.........I'm at a loss at this point'

What does this mean? You seem to be saying you've narrowed it down to bad fuel pump...........then you say you're lost, which is it?............be clear or people give up helping you.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:39 PM   #14
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Wet spark plugs......pull out all 4 and inspect.....
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:13 PM   #15
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Thank you to all those that have helped. AMC49, It is not the fuel pump. I will be opening up the timing belt housing to take a peek and will replace everything while Im there. As I was recalling the night it stoped, I heard something give out, sounded like tink rocks hitting the motor, but no sand or anything on the ground, I'm starting to wonder if the timing belt adjuster didnt drop it's bearings. and the belt is just to loose, but have to wait til I can get the parts to verify that.

FocusRus, I pulled the plugs and all 4 where wet with fuel.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #16
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Once you check out the timing belt and related componets.....clean or replace the plugs IF their in need of replacement ( old ). But if replacing.......go with a hotter plug.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:36 AM   #17
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clean or replace the plugs IF their in need of replacement ( old ). But if replacing.......go with a hotter plug.
The plugs are brand new and will clean them for sure. I just have this strange feeling that the timing belt adjuster is what has caused this problem. I'll give an update as soon as I can get the timing belt kit and all!
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:43 AM   #18
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I believe once you investigate the toming belt......that will tell all. As with the plugs.......anytime you try to start a engine that won't fire off......you dump alot of fuel on them...... With them being new, just clean'em up. We look to hear from ya soon.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:48 PM   #19
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Thanks FocusRus for all your help. I'm hoping to have the funds to buy the kit within a week or two, I'll keep you updated as to what I find!
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