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Old 02-19-2013, 07:46 PM   #11
focus wht
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I had the exact same issue. Simple fix, open hood and disconnect cable from the battery for about 5 minutes. Reconnect and the system will reset and the vehicle location has been bang on since.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:51 PM   #12
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mine started doing this when i first updated it does it every once in a while but it is doing it less and less as time goes by.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:52 PM   #13
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Same idea -- remove the power to the nav unit. Disconnecting the battery will kill it everywhere in the car, so you might reset more than you wanted. But the battery is easy to find and you don't have to look up fuse positions in the manual.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:50 AM   #14
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I've seen reports on other forums of a problem with the GPS being offset that was fixed by pulling the fuses to the nav and APIM (and putting the fuses back in, of course :))
Good to know - I'll have to give it a whirl.

Haven't pulled the fuses since delayedreboot.cab came along... it'll be like a trip back in time!
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:58 PM   #15
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OP here. Pleased to report that pulling fuses 67 & 79 for a while solved the problem. Thanks for the solution.

I decided that I didn't want to deal with pulling the battery because of the DCT learning cycle and because they made the negative terminal way too inaccessible. I mean really, how hard would it have been to put the battery in so that the closest and easiest terminal to access would be the negative. Safety please.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4havnfun View Post
OP here. Pleased to report that pulling fuses 67 & 79 for a while solved the problem. Thanks for the solution.

I decided that I didn't want to deal with pulling the battery because of the DCT learning cycle and because they made the negative terminal way too inaccessible. I mean really, how hard would it have been to put the battery in so that the closest and easiest terminal to access would be the negative. Safety please.
There is a main ground cable on the left front strut tower, this is the main body ground, disconnecting this acts the same as disconnecting the negative terminal and is used for jump starting cars also.

You don't have to reach under the cowl to directly disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

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Old 03-16-2013, 08:09 PM   #17
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There is a main ground cable on the left front strut tower, this is the main body ground, disconnecting this acts the same as disconnecting the negative terminal and is used for jump starting cars also.

You don't have to reach under the cowl to directly disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
Thanks for the suggestion but there is a 2nd thinner ground wire connected directly to the battery terminal that goes somewhere. I could have disconnected the ground strap and then pulled the positive connection to be 100% certain but I preferred to not have the DCT lose all of its adaptive calibration so I went the contortionist route to pull the 2 fuses.

I still stand by my view that they could have made it much simpler and safer by just flipping the battery around.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:22 PM   #18
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Sub'd, in case I ever need to do this with mine, I'll refer to which fuses to pull! Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:33 PM   #19
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OP here, 3 weeks after pulling the fuses and the problem has come back.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4havnfun View Post
OP here, 3 weeks after pulling the fuses and the problem has come back.
Fuse pulls, battery disconnects don't tend to fix these kind of problems, just make them better for a while. The problems do tend to eventually creep back in. Reboots do the same thing (fix issues for a bit but not permanently) and are not as inconvenient as crawling around pulling fuses or disconnecting battery cables. I don't know if you use this or not already but if you do not there is a little reboot app that can be found here:

http://outofmytouch.com/reboot.html

Basically you put it on a USB drive, pop it in before you shut the car down, let it install, remove the drive, and shut the car off. This causes the MFT system to reboot while the car is off. Really cleans the system up for a bit. If it starts acting up, you can do it again when necessary. I keep a copy on a drive permanently in my car for when I need it.

Note that a reboot is different than a master reset. Master resets wipe out all your stored info (nav destinations, radio presets, phone pairing, etc.) and don't accomplish much. Reboots (which is what is occurring if you have ever seen the "performing system maintenance" screen) seem to help the system a lot more than resets in my experience.
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