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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 05-03-2011, 08:33 AM   #1
wezol5484
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My new 2001 SE

Picked up an 01 SE, 4dr. Forest Green w/SPI, 112K miles. We picked it up as a gas saver. Decided to park our 06 Powerstroke and my 78 F150 for a little while.

Guy wanted $2,900, got him to $2,600. Went to take it for a spin, found a MASSIVE oil leak. Got him down another $300, then I slapped a new $27 pan gasket on it, good as new.

So far I like this little car. It's AMAZINGLY easy to work on. The oil pan gasket took me 45 minutes (including cleaning the pan), and I replaced a seized idler pulley in about 20. I did put a new battery in it, because the one that was in it was the wrong one, corroded as hell, too small, and dead.

Before the idler pulley completely seized and burnt up, the idle was a little rough. It would idle down to the low 500's, high 400's when coming to a stop, and fuel mileage was 21mpg. With the new pulley, idle is much better, never dipping into the 500's, but not perfect. Today, I'll be pulling the IAC and giving it a once over, I like a smooth idle. If it's too far gone I'll replace it. Although the guy said he just did a tune up, I'll also be pulling the plugs to make sure.

I'll also be replacing a few bulbs behind the cluster, some don't light up, including the CEL. Before the battery was replaced, I had a P0141, bank 1 sensor 2 CEL. Although that o2 sensor doesn't really mean much, I had thought about replacing both of them, just so I know where I stand. But when I put a new battery in, no more codes have been thrown. I THINK I read on here about low battery voltage could cause a CEL with o2 sensors?

Some things that have already been done by the PO, passenger side motor mount and timing belt.

I've been slowly replacing things over the last week or so. New center caps (missing three),and replaced missing antenna. We are waiting for new seat back adjustment handles, and it's missing the key cylinder pad on the trunk.

Things to come are:

Drivers side grab handle
Plastic caps that hide the car seat hooks above the rear seat
Plastic panel above rear cup holder that hides screws for center console
Drivers side cup holder

Last but not least, I'll be looking into pulling the head and replacing the valve seats before they cause any major problems. Looks like a pretty easy job (all things considered), and can be done in car.

Look forward to reading around on this site, probably will lurk more than I post.

I'm also a member of FTE, and it was someone there that referred me here.




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Old 05-03-2011, 10:57 AM   #2
poppop
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I like these little cars and they are not too hard to fix.I have had eight of them.All of them either dropped a seat before or after I got them.One dropped a seat at 72K and another at 202K,They are easier to fix before the seat drops.More often than not the seat breaks up and trashes a piston and sometimes in the end the block gets busted up.If I were you the sooner you replace the head the safer you will be,but you never know it might go 200K just the way it sits.
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:09 AM   #3
wezol5484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppop View Post
I like these little cars and they are not too hard to fix.I have had eight of them.All of them either dropped a seat before or after I got them.One dropped a seat at 72K and another at 202K,They are easier to fix before the seat drops.More often than not the seat breaks up and trashes a piston and sometimes in the end the block gets busted up.If I were you the sooner you replace the head the safer you will be,but you never know it might go 200K just the way it sits.
That's what I was kinda figuring. Is there any warning to a dropped seat?

I found a thread here with a video of a valve seat going bad, and it was some pretty fun knocking/missing.

My SPI has a very slight knock after it's warm, but it's no where NEAR what I heard in the video, and runs smooth (off idle anyway). Hell, idle isn't really that bad, maybe I'm just too picky.

The knocking I hear isn't something that alarms me, as it's VERY faint. I've been known to notice noises and annoy dealer techs because they couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary, yet I assure them it's there.

Is there a good write up on pulling the head?

I called a buddy of mine, who owns a machine shop. Said he'd put valve seats in for cheap for me.

I assume you gotta lift the motor, remove the timing belt and leave the cam? I've never worked on an OHC motor before. Do you loosen the rockers then pull the head off?
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:29 PM   #4
Ispi
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This may be useful:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...#ixzz1EiPiyD17
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:22 PM   #5
TeamZetec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wezol5484 View Post
Picked up an 01 SE, 4dr. Forest Green w/SPI, 112K miles. We picked it up as a gas saver. Decided to park our 06 Powerstroke and my 78 F150 for a little while.

Guy wanted $2,900, got him to $2,600. Went to take it for a spin, found a MASSIVE oil leak. Got him down another $300, then I slapped a new $27 pan gasket on it, good as new.

So far I like this little car. It's AMAZINGLY easy to work on.
Not a bad price for a Focus...but, big mistake getting an SPI. You could have found a Zetec Focus for that price. Valve seats usually drop on the SPI around 120k-140k miles so its gettin ready to go I'll tell you that right now.

Amazingly easy to work on? Nah, I'd honestly rather work on a V6. It took my best friend who is a mechanic 4 hours to get the cylinder head off my SPI. Most of the guys on here say it took them about 2 hours minimum. Other stuff on them isn't easy to get at either, Ford deliberately designed this motor to be hard to work on so you had to take it to a dealer.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wezol5484 View Post
That's what I was kinda figuring. Is there any warning to a dropped seat?

I assume you gotta lift the motor, remove the timing belt and leave the cam? I've never worked on an OHC motor before. Do you loosen the rockers then pull the head off?
If you have power loss plus a tapping noise in your engine, its going to drop a valve seat. Typically the SPI gives no warning that its going to drop a valve seat, it usually just happens when you go to start it one day. These motors are garbage, they will drop valve seats at no given time for no reason at all usually with no warning.

My bestie tore the cylinder head off mine, it was a biotch to do. Lifting the motor is not necessary. You gotta put a jack under the oil pan and drop the motor mount and remove a bunch of other crap including the timing belt. If you never worked on an overhead cam before, you do not want to get involved with working on an SPI, its not easy. You do not have to loosen the rockers. Search around in the SPI performance section here for how to tear the cylinder head off.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:27 AM   #7
wezol5484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamZetec View Post
Not a bad price for a Focus...but, big mistake getting an SPI. You could have found a Zetec Focus for that price. Valve seats usually drop on the SPI around 120k-140k miles so its gettin ready to go I'll tell you that right now.

Amazingly easy to work on? Nah, I'd honestly rather work on a V6. It took my best friend who is a mechanic 4 hours to get the cylinder head off my SPI. Most of the guys on here say it took them about 2 hours minimum. Other stuff on them isn't easy to get at either, Ford deliberately designed this motor to be hard to work on so you had to take it to a dealer.
Well, compared to what I've worked on in the past, this as been a breeze. It's nice to not have to stand on a stool or leave my feet dangling, hugging my turbo and making love to a radiator for hours on end....think 2006 4x4 powerstroke....took me three days to just do an EGR delete on that 6.0 (pro's can do it in 8 hours).

I have a friend who runs a machine shop, I can get the valve seats done cheap and easy. No biggie, get em popped in, put the head back on, drive it forever more.

I'm not in this to go fast or anything, we just needed a little car that got good fuel mileage to get us from A to B, as we were spending $700/month between the 6.0 and my 78 F150.

I'm a firm believe that any motor can be made reliable if things are done right. Sure, they may brake, but if you fix em right the first time, shouldn't have to worry much anymore about it.

As for never working on an overhead cam before, when it comes down to it...a motor is a motor, a cam is a cam and valves are valves. They all work on the same principle. Put motor at TDC, mark the timing belt and gears, and make doubly sure it's not 180 out.
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:04 AM   #8
justagrrlinny
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I was told my a mechanic who did an oil change that I had a leak in my oil pan. He noticed there was 'oil spray' on the left hand side of the inside of the hood. If the leak is from the pan, does that mean the gasket is bad, and if so, how hard is that to change...for someone who knows positively nothing about it. I've done SOME things with the car...cosmetic fixes, but nothing with the engine. Can you provide a step by step for me on how to do this on my own? I can't afford to have a mechanic do it. Any help would be very much appreciated. I also have a 2001 Ford Focus SE and mine is 2.0L Split Port.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:03 AM   #9
poppop
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[QUOTE=justagrrlinny;4768902]I was told my a mechanic who did an oil change that I had a leak in my oil pan. He noticed there was 'oil spray' on the left hand side of the inside of the hood.

Check your power steering hose where it goes into the pump.If its leaking it will end up in that area of the hood.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:14 PM   #10
justagrrlinny
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I'm having the timing belt/water pump replaced tomorrow so I'll have the mechanic check that while he's into the engine. Thanks for the info!
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