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Old 11-17-2013, 12:17 AM   #1
randylawl
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How-To: 2000 IM Install (with pictures)

I took the plunge today and installed my 2000 Intake Manifold. I usually don't take pictures of every step, but this time I got most of them so others would know what's involved.

Tools: Get everything you can get. Mainly metric sockets (8, 10, 13, 15 mm's) and flat blade screwdrivers, extensions and ratchets of all sizes (I even used a 1/4" drive ratchet for some things). You will also need a Torx bit if you need to swap your throttle body to the new intake, as well as pry bars, fuel line disconnect tool, and a dremel maybe.

My first step was a little preparation of the intake runners. I was unhappy with how much extra plastic there was on the inside of the fuel injector port from how they mold them, so I carefully removed some of the bump on each port and smoothed it all out with a soft polishing wheel.



Now to actual step 1: put the car on ramps, unplug the inertia switch in the passenger wheel well and start the engine until it dies. Remove your intake tube/MAF etc, and this is what you have to work with:



Remove this dingus, they slide off easy:



Here are the main vacuum dinguses, they all slide off with the help of a careful screwdriver under the edge of them.



I mean except this red/black one, but it comes off by pushing both of the tab-o-trons on either side until it pops off:



EDIT:DO NOT REMOVE THE METAL CLIPS HOLDING INJECTORS. I AM DUMB AND DIDN'T REALIZE THEY JUST PUSH INWARD SO YOU CAN PULL THEM OFF. LIKE A CLIP SHOULD. BECAUSE I WAS DUMB. N̶e̶x̶t̶,̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶l̶e̶ ̶n̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶i̶e̶r̶s̶ ̶o̶r̶ ̶a̶ ̶s̶c̶r̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶r̶i̶v̶e̶r̶,̶ ̶c̶a̶r̶e̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶d̶r̶o̶p̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶l̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶e̶t̶a̶l̶ ̶r̶e̶t̶a̶i̶n̶e̶r̶ ̶c̶l̶i̶p̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ unplug each of the connectazoids on the fuel rail harness. NOTE: THE RED GASKET JIGGITIES WILL FALL OUT AND YOU WON'T REALIZE UNTIL FOUR HOURS LATER WHEN YOU GO TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER.




Mess with this stupid yellow piece for fifteen minutes until you remember you have a fuel disconnect tool and hate ford specialized connectors:



Disconnect here with disconnect tool. Gasoline will come out. It's a freakin' gas line.



Unplug ENORMO, DESTROYER OF KNUCKLES, the completely huge connector that's right in front of your face:



Then there's this annoying little guy down near the alternator. If you haven't yet learned how to disconnect ford connectors with one hand, in an area with no room for movement and full of razor sharp factory bolts, you probably need to give up.



Then this one:



Then take the two bolts off the fuel rail and pry out on it gently, I think I used a long 1/2" extension as leverage but you probably shouldn't do what I do, or this swap for that matter. Don't forget that you can't pull the rail out without sliding off the vacuum line from the passenger side of the rail:





TA-DA!:



Unplug TPS:



Take these two bolts out of the EGR spaceship. *so I don't forget this later, when you put these back in they're both gonna start sideways and cross thread. When they do, unless you feel like putting another one on it, just drive the bolts all the way through until the surfaces are tight and then never change your EGR for any reason.



I didn't get pictures, but there are two more bolts with this EGR crap you have to take off, but they are also intake manifold bolts so you'll get them out anyway. One of the two is a stud (that's what she said) and the nut on it is a 13 (that's what she said?). Next step is remove all of the intake manifold bolts. There are three on top that are easy to reach, I believe they're 10mm. The other two you can reach from the bottom of the car, so get ready to crawl around like a caterpillar and fill your eyes with shards of rust.

Next there's this ridiculous thing, I guess it's the left side engine lift mount. It's got a bolt you can clearly see on the top, then under that folded over and bolted section is the most terribly placed intake manifold bolt on the car. It's a 13 stud, you can get a socket to it and I think I used a deepwell. Oh, almost forgot, you first have to jockey a screwdriver down there and take off some kind of ridiculous metal mount made to hold the connector down there, which just snaps on the stupid manifold bolt. So pry that off and then take off the nut and the metal brackety jig comes off.




Thar, she blows:



Now go crazy and dremel off the end of the stud because you think you might get by without rotating the alternator. Protip: if this is a car you plan on driving, you have to rotate the alternator. Just do it.



Now, this has a really dumb clip on it that's easier to get off than to get on (that's what she said) and I'm 90% sure that collapsed tube is why my pcv is spewing oil, but I'll fix it later. right now you have to get a small screwdriver in side it and twist to make it pop off, then remove that tube.



Now, the fun part. The alternator has two bolts, meaning you can take out the one towards the front of the car and rotate the alternator up towards the back and that will let you get the stupid intake off the stupid car. The threads on the alternator bolts have thread lock on them, so it'll be like trying to unbolt a piece of rubber, and you don't have the best place to turn a socket under the coolant reservoir (but I did it because racecar). Before you do this though, you need to take a 14mm wrench to the belt tensioner while laying underneath and rotate it up towards the cabin to take off the belt. I had to use another wrench hooked into that one when I was putting the belt back on, I guess I had a lot less strength after six hours of turning wrenches. After taking off the belt, remove that incredibly long-threaded alternator stud, then LOOSEN THE OTHER ONE SOME (I didn't and it took a lot of hammering and stuff to get the alternator back down after we switched intakes). The pry it up until you can get the driver side of the intake kind of loose to move around, then carefully pry the intake right beside that last intake bolt, and if you've moved the alternator enough you should be able to work the intake off the engine.

NOW JUST PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. YOU'LL PROBABLY HATE EVERYTHING BY THIS POINT, I SUGGEST STARTING IN THE MORNING AND NOT 12PM. SHAZAM, YOU'RE DONE!

Now for some pictures that might look pretty good, and some that will disgust you. I truly regret not taking the time to clean out the intake ports, but I wasn't thinking straight and it probably doesn't really matter. Just don't blame me if you throw up on your laptop:













Now, remember this picture:




Things to remember:
1. If you are paranoid that the IAC from the 2000 IM that you pulled from the junk yard isn't as likely to work on your car as the one on your stock manifold (like I obviously was), then go ahead and switch the stock IAC to your new manifold. BUT: WHEN YOU DO THIS, PUT THE CONNECTOR FOR THE IAC TOWARDS THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MANIFOLD WHEN VIEWED LOOKING AT THE RUNNER PORTS. I put the IAC on backwards and had to switch it over on the car, which was dumb. Don't be dumb.

2. PUSH THE STUPID METAL CLIPS IN LIKE THEY'RE BUTTONS AND JUST PULL THE INJECTOR HARNESS OFF OF THE INJECTORS. DURRR DERP I'M STUPID. U̶s̶e̶ ̶t̶w̶o̶ ̶s̶e̶t̶s̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶l̶e̶ ̶n̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶i̶e̶r̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶f̶l̶a̶t̶ ̶b̶l̶a̶d̶e̶ ̶s̶c̶r̶e̶w̶d̶r̶i̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶g̶o̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶p̶u̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶e̶t̶a̶l̶ ̶C̶l̶i̶p̶i̶t̶y̶ ̶c̶l̶i̶p̶s̶ ̶b̶a̶c̶k̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶h̶a̶r̶n̶e̶s̶s̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶u̶e̶l̶ ̶r̶a̶i̶l̶.̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶e̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶s̶t̶i̶c̶k̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶l̶i̶p̶s̶ ̶d̶o̶w̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶r̶e̶ ̶u̶n̶t̶i̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶y̶ ̶a̶r̶e̶ ̶l̶i̶n̶e̶d̶ ̶u̶p̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶i̶r̶ ̶l̶i̶t̶t̶l̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶s̶t̶i̶c̶ ̶s̶l̶o̶t̶s̶,̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶l̶e̶ ̶n̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶e̶a̶c̶h̶ ̶s̶i̶d̶e̶,̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶m̶ ̶l̶i̶n̶e̶d̶ ̶u̶p̶,̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶c̶r̶e̶w̶d̶r̶i̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶p̶u̶s̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶m̶ ̶i̶n̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶l̶o̶t̶ ̶u̶n̶t̶i̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶y̶'̶r̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶r̶e̶.̶ ̶Y̶O̶U̶ ̶W̶I̶L̶L̶ ̶D̶R̶O̶P̶ ̶B̶E̶T̶W̶E̶E̶N̶ ̶O̶N̶E̶ ̶A̶N̶D̶ ̶F̶I̶V̶E̶ ̶O̶F̶ ̶T̶H̶E̶S̶E̶.̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶r̶e̶ ̶a̶r̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶f̶i̶v̶e̶.̶ ̶Y̶o̶u̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶t̶e̶s̶t̶ ̶h̶o̶w̶ ̶e̶a̶s̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶y̶ ̶g̶o̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶c̶l̶i̶p̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶e̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶a̶i̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶h̶a̶r̶d̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶r̶e̶a̶c̶h̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶j̶u̶s̶t̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶r̶ ̶h̶a̶n̶d̶s̶.̶ ̶

3. When you are underneath the car and go to take off the brake booster tube, you have to pull it out some (giggity) and push the plastic retainer thing on it back into the rubber grommet on the manifold, then pull it out a little more and keep doing that until the plastic retainer thing on it is off of the tube and in the rubber grommet, and the tube easily pulls out of the manifold.

4. Don't do this without one person minimum to help. Don't do this without raising the car on ramps, don't do this without some kind of light source you can pinpoint with, don't do this if you have never worked on a car before or haven't had to solve a problem you didn't expect. Don't think this won't take one whole day, and if you don't, then please do this and make a better write up than I have because you know what's up.

5. Loosen both alternator bolts, even if you're only removing the one. I had to hammer the crap out of my alternator using a 1/2" extension and it still took a lot of pounding before it would go in place (that's what she said).

6. Stop. Take breaks. Drink water. Stretch your legs and back because they'll probably end up being ruined after you finish this, unless you're one of those lucky people with a shop lift and you don't do things on the street of a subdivision on the weekend.

7. Do everything in reverse order when you put it back together. I can not stress enough to make sure you have all wires going where they went on the other manifold, that you are careful with the vacuum lines and get them all the way off/on without tearing them or having your hand slip and punching a port hole in your firewall.


It's not incredibly difficult. I noticed that the 'wall' the powerband hit around 6500 before doesn't come in until almost 7000 now, and that makes me plenty satisfied. This manifold was like 27$ at the junk yard, is proven to flow better, and most importantly, I like it because I did it myself.


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Last edited by randylawl; 09-20-2014 at 06:06 PM. Reason: DON'T REMOVE THE INJECTOR CLIPS-I'M STUPID
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:46 PM   #2
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Thanks for the write up... On a note just for anyone who maybe doing this... I haven't installed mine yet but did want to clean the manifold runners before I installed it... I went to the store and bought a dryer vent lint brush that is long and flexible... Soaked the intake in a simple green and warm water and just kept brushing... I cut the brush down but with the length and flexibility it allowed me to clean the entire runner... Just a suggestion for anyone who is anal about doing everything right the first time... Like u said In the post it proly doesn't even matter but I knew it was dirty and wanted it clean after I ported it... Thanks again for the write up... The pics and info will come in very handy when I do mine...


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Old 11-23-2013, 02:01 PM   #3
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Nice write up man. Adding a link to the "ZETEC Performance Chat Stickied Threads"
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:07 AM   #4
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Awesome
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:15 PM   #5
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Glad this has been "stickied".
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