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Old 01-22-2013, 01:52 PM   #11
Dardas
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I know that the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor was throwing off a code, but where the heck is it? The only thing I've been able to find says it's "behind the alternator." Anybody have anything better than that?
I found this link online, it should help regarding the location and replacement of the "Cylinder Head Temp Sensor".

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/35x8m...tall-temp.html
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:59 PM   #12
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Dardas, thank you so much!
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:40 PM   #13
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If its that close to the alternator I can almost guarantee it eithe never got plugged back in or got knocked out. Check to make sure it's plugged in before you do anything else
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:28 PM   #14
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X2 on the bike thing, no car on the planet can touch a good pocket rocket, BTDT..........
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:29 AM   #15
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Seriously. I'd WAY rather be working on a bike than a car.

Okay, so the good news is I found and removed her IACV. It's in the process of being cleaned. The other good news is I FINALLY located the CHTS. The bad news is that it is plugged in and it doesn't look like there is any way to get to it without removing either the alternator or the intake manifold. I think I'm going to put the IACV back on once it's clean and dry and see if that fixes the problem. I snapped a picture of the CHTS if anyone is interested. Looks like it's a real bugger to get to. Thanks, Ford.

The other bad news, I guess, is that I still can't seem to find a proper TPS for this thing around here that isn't insanely expensive.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:40 AM   #16
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The manual says to remove the alternator as step one of replacing the cylinder head temp sensor.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:43 PM   #17
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The other bad news, I guess, is that I still can't seem to find a proper TPS for this thing around here that isn't insanely expensive.
You won't find one because they know how expensive it is to replace. Did you check out our Ford parts vendor who sells us parts for employee discount? You might as well ask what the part will cost- if they even have it.

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:25 PM   #18
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I've been looking at TPS for early model too as I have '00 and '02 ATX cars. It seems after digging up enough info that the ATX TPS is simply clocked different from the manual trans TPS as far as the screw hole locations on the switch, maybe 15 degree difference in rotation there. If one were to grind off the manual TPS switch mounting hole points, then very possible to maybe make up a cover plate out of sheet metal with two screw holes and a pilot hole in center to center switch up with and then pinch switch between the plate and TB using longer screws. Then one could rotate the switch freely to obtain the correct TPS volts needed on voltmeter and then cinch the screws down right there. Could be very easy to make close to $200 for very little work there...........

You absolutely cannot use manual TPS on ATX without modding, it indexes in incorrectly and does not read right, may even damage when the two arc ranges do not match and TPS strikes solid at end of swing to bend contact out of shape.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:44 PM   #19
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How about a later model ATX TB? TPS haven't changed much- other than the physical connection. In other words, if it fits the shaft on the TB and lines up, then it should be ok. I'd think that would be a better adaptation- more reliable since getting the correct angle could be difficult. I think I suggested that early on. I know the Zetec modders like to use the 00 intake manifold for some reason, and I don't recall any issues with the throttle body fitting.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:57 PM   #20
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Dinna kna Cap'n.........ain't been there yet.

Possibility..............

Angle? Correct TPS volts pretty much weeds that issue out, unless you mean the angle of end for connecting, I think you have to change connector too since one wide and other is narrow. I'd probably just cut wires and put new pin connectors in there with some weatherproofing. After seeing all the over-the-counter connectors skyrocket to like $15-$20 each I went to Digitech and bought plenty of crimp on specialty connectors to be able to cobble up new ones for a few cents each. Just redid my coil connector for like $0.50.

I know I absolutely will not be buying an entire TB just to get that switch...........
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