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Old 01-23-2013, 08:32 PM   #151
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If the shop doesn't know how to use a dyno then they shouldn't have one.
But tuning on a dynojet vs mustang dyno is night and day difference. But that's my experience.
you would be suprised man.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:47 PM   #152
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[QUOTE=Roushturboedzx3;4553763]you would be suprised man.[/

We will see what my 6766 lays down on this mustang dyno. 445whp ran 10.90-11.1's on a 3klbs fwd car.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:48 PM   #153
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on your car if you truly want to go to 600hp you will need to run a 44/46. a 38/39 will do 450 just fine. but even if you are spraying not boosting up to 600whp then you are still moving more air. the purpose of the larger wg is to allow more ex to pass the turbo. if your running boost and spray with out enough wg then your boost will start to raise no matter what boost is set to when you spray it. if your running a turbo big enough to make 450whp then you dont have to worry about a 44/46 being to big.

as far as the surge tank goes. i dont see you needing to run a larger pump in the stock tank. you can just set it to a full on relay instead of variable. with running a full return set up your still having to run lines and put fittings in so that isnt raising the price any. i think the cost would be close to the same on the two set ups but the surge tank will just allow stock fuel gauge and gets rid of the problems associated with using stock tank for return and would be safer than putting a cell in the passenger compartment.

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Old 01-23-2013, 09:49 PM   #154
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Ok thanks guys! Keep the info coming! This is a tremendous help! What is your opinion on what size bearings I should run? I cancelled mt order when I saw how widely they varied. Oem 25mm 50mm and 75mm on rod and main bearings
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:59 PM   #155
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Ok thanks guys! Keep the info coming! This is a tremendous help! What is your opinion on what size bearings I should run? I cancelled mt order when I saw how widely they varied. Oem 25mm 50mm and 75mm on rod and main bearings
As long as your crank and rod journals are in good shape standard size will work. Now if you had to send the crank out to get the journals fixed from being scored or scratched then you would order under sized(aka 25mm)
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:14 PM   #156
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So if I have never had a spun bearing, and currently have no bearing noise that would suggest a spun bearing I should be ok with oem? Or should I wait to place the order until after the engine is torn down to see what I need for sure? I can place an order and they should arrive in a week or so unless autozone has what I need
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:19 PM   #157
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the correct way would be to tear down the engine and mic the crank and caps to figure out what size bearings you need.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:21 PM   #158
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go ahead and order std. since you are running the engine now and know it is in good shape there should be no problem with std size. if i find any problem i will let you know and we can decide then to either get a new crank or resurface and over size bearings. probably end up with me at pull a part getting a good one if there is a problem with yours.

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Old 01-23-2013, 10:31 PM   #159
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right with jim I was going to order race bearings back during my build but my crank and caps were really good condition still so there was no need. and you would need to mic the crank anyawys so std is your easiest and best bet. and real cheap
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:49 PM   #160
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Awesome, ty guys. Ill get the order back in. found a 5 gal fuel cell for $25. Should I snag it?
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