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Old 12-23-2014, 02:14 PM   #1
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Duratec Obx Racing Header on MK3

First of all, I know there is at least three other write ups on how to install a header on the mk3, no need to state the obvious, and even though I Thank those guys for their great write ups, I felt the one thing they were missing was a bunch of pictures. So here is my attempt. The installation took about 2 hours.

This is the obx racing header made for the first duratec engine, it is two pieces and not the one that we see now that's one piece.

it's on amazon for 250 shipped. I bought it used from a local here for 200 bux with longer O2 sensor and mil eliminator. Not a bad deal, and to good to pass up.



So first thing is first for those of you with an engine cover, remove it.
Then unplug both the rear sensor and the front O2 sensor from the top.

Then put to work on the heat shield. 4 10 mm bolts.
at this time you can pull the heat shield out, you'll have to push the remainder of the sensor through the heat shield.

A lot of this bolts were really hard to un torque.

Next, take off 4 pressure clips on the lining of the windshield cowl, pull out the carpet lining, and pull out the vent shields on top of your windshield cowl, take off these two bolts and it will come out

Next take out 2 bolts from upper motor mount (17mm) that go on the chassis.

At this time raise up your car on jack stands

Remove two bolts from exhaust, catback on mine, and undue exhaust hanger bracket here

Next undue the undercarriage lining which has 6 torque screws. T10.

Remove bracket screws.

Remove rear sensor and front sensor

At this time the whole bottom of the header is out.

Go back up to the front. Remove manifold nuts, sometimes the bolts will come out, there's 5 of them.

At this time since we un did the bolts on the chassis from the upper motor mount you can pull the motor forward.

Pull the header out it took some wiggling but not much.


Big difference.

put the new one in, first the header, bolt it up, then the flex pipe. All gaskets and bolts. Everything lines up. Put your sensors back in. Note, we had to switch the sensors around, the rear for the front and vice versa. Only way they reached. And put everything back together in reverse order.




Start her up.

I want to thank mark (notreal) and rusty (daspazzZX3) for helping me with this install. Couldn't have done it without you guys.

Feel free to ask any questions. Hope this helps the next fanatic.

KAYKAY.


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Old 12-23-2014, 02:15 PM   #2
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:29 PM   #3
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Awesome write up. Any issues with the two bolts connecting the cat to the exhuast? When I took off my stock exhaust to install my cat back they were the biggest obstacle. Ended up having to buy new bolts and cut them to size. Do you think its easier to install the two piece header than it would be for the one piece?
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:42 PM   #4
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Well.when I did the catback. . I ran into a similar issue. I had to make new holes on the bracket, and buy new bolts, cause they had seized.

As far as this header goes. Since its a catless header, I didn't have that issue.. :-) but no, all bolts went in fine. No issues at all.

I haven't installed the one piece header, so I can't be for sure. However, this install took two hours, and we ran into no obstacles, no cuss words, it was easy. Maybe a couple of hard bolts, but with the help of two people. got it out. :-)
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:52 PM   #5
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CEL come on or no?
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemingways Fury View Post
CEL come on or no?
It will come on, since there is no catalytic converter, plus the oxygen sensors are now reversed which will confuse the engine management if they were not also plugged into the other sensor's location on the wiring harness.

The upstream O2 sensor is meant to verify the combustion efficiency with the downstream one monitoring the catalytic converter.
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Old 12-23-2014, 03:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemingways Fury View Post
CEL come on or no?
Yes CEL came on.
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Old 12-23-2014, 03:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suss6052 View Post
It will come on, since there is no catalytic converter, plus the oxygen sensors are now reversed which will confuse the engine management if they were not also plugged into the other sensor's location on the wiring harness.

The upstream O2 sensor is meant to verify the combustion efficiency with the downstream one monitoring the catalytic converter.
Nope, unfortunately unable to reverse sensors on the wiring harness due to the plugs being different. Will be buying a longer rear sensor at some point, and will be buying a new mil eliminator spacer as this one is probably faulty
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:16 PM   #9
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Quick edit. Under car lining is t27, the bolts at the cat bracket were hella tight, and the header nuts/studs can and should be removed completely. They are 15mm nuts and E8 for the studs. That's an external torx socket. I applied nickel antiseize when I put everything back together. And I wanted to try a different route then removing motor mounts. The cowling was easy with only 4 bolts, 4 plastic clips and 4 metal clamps which are easily pulled on one side and fall off into your hand. It was great learning experience for me as well. I hope Kaykay build helps others and he keeps up the great work on his car.
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:25 PM   #10
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Thanks for your input Mark.
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