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Old 05-10-2013, 12:57 PM   #11
AllenR
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Yeah, I thought that was a low torque setting, so I checked the manual again. It says 132 in/lbs. Divide it by 12 = 11 ft/lbs. I have a small torque wrench that will set to that, but the only 15/16" socket I could find was a 1/2" drive. It has min scale of 10, so I set it slightly above that. The specs came from a Haynes manual. They've always been right for me, but there is a chance it was wrong in the book. Is there a place where I could find the Ford recommended torque specs on all the engine parts?
What kind of tape should I use on the threads?
It looks like it may be dripping from the oil filter adapter, as well. I could get a new gasket for that, while I'm at it, or go ahead and get a new adapter if I need to.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:21 PM   #12
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Can give ya a couple answers...

Teflon tape for pipe fittings is easy to use, just start the wrap back a thread or two so it isn't over the end. You wind it on opposite of the way it threads in, that way it's not trying to unwind itself as you start turning it in.

The "click type" torque wrenches aren't too accurate near the end of their scale, that's why you saw the in/lb number (that would be in the middle of an in/lb scale, and those are usually beam type). This is why I mentioned you'll likely need to "feel' it by hand.

Can't help with the spec. info., someone else might chime in on that eventually.

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Old 05-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #13
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Well, I wrapped it with teflon tape, and it still leaks. I guess the threads in the adapter are worn out. :( Bad timing at the weekend, too. Oh, well. Seems like there would be a gasket on the sensor to help seal it.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:12 PM   #14
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try using a PTFE liquid. also clean out the threads with a brush. They also make some thicker sealant that is commonly used with motors that have two separate gaskets. GM has this that I know of (P/N: 4318083) that is suppose to be able to cure in the presence of oil and internal to the motor unlike normal RTV.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:45 PM   #15
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Why go looking for exotic sealants when like elsolo says, Permatex #2 non-hardening is perfect for this and does not really have to 'cure' to do so. It only thickens up as the VOC leeches out of it, which is perfect. If it doesn't work then you have a cracked mounting boss from overtightening, pipe thread does that easily with a heavy hand, since basically you are driving a wedge into part there.

Teflon here is a problem, I don't use any teflon based sealants except tape and that can cause trouble too. On pipe thread the increase in force ramps up way slower than on a normal bolt, that results almost always in overtightening by the unlearned, because there is no point at which the part seems to 'cinch up' like on normal bolts, or the feeling that bolt has pulled up tight. Pipe thread force just get steadily slightly higher and higher with no feeling of pulling up tight close to all at once, or what we have trained our minds to as being the right place to stop. Teflon being used aggravates that not pulling up factor, it is easier to crack parts with teflon used because the force pullup is even more gradual. In our shop back in the day we bought into the loctite new 'pipe sealer with TEFLON', after several cracked parts we dropped it and problem went away. D-mn stuff worked TOO well.

If OP has cracked it, try more sealer (not tape) and tighten LESS this time, less lets the crack close back up and might possibly seal. After that it'll be cleaning hole out super duper and epoxy part in with intention it can never come out again.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:54 PM   #16
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Bear in mind that any teflon thread tape can scrape away from the fixture to not seal, and most especially if you put it on yourself and wound it backwards. Hold fitting in your left hand and start the tape holding start with left thumb and wind it clockwise with the right hand. Line tape up when starting to miss the first two threads. No more than 3 wraps.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:59 PM   #17
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regardless of the sealant or how you due it, I would do it in the evening cleaning everything real good and then let it sit overnight with out using the car.
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:18 PM   #18
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One advantage of physical tape is that it will simply move the oil out of the way, can be used with oily threads. Just a thought there. If using a semiliquid sealer then as he says, clean threads needed.
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:22 PM   #19
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one thing i have found with the tape is the tape can (and if I am the only unlucky one) tape can be left in the threads. not sure if you get any double gasket effects if/when that happens...
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Why go looking for exotic sealants when like elsolo says, Permatex #2 non-hardening is perfect for this and does not really have to 'cure' to do so. It only thickens up as the VOC leeches out of it, which is perfect. If it doesn't work then you have a cracked mounting boss from overtightening, pipe thread does that easily with a heavy hand, since basically you are driving a wedge into part there.

Teflon here is a problem, I don't use any teflon based sealants except tape and that can cause trouble too. On pipe thread the increase in force ramps up way slower than on a normal bolt, that results almost always in overtightening by the unlearned, because there is no point at which the part seems to 'cinch up' like on normal bolts, or the feeling that bolt has pulled up tight. Pipe thread force just get steadily slightly higher and higher with no feeling of pulling up tight close to all at once, or what we have trained our minds to as being the right place to stop. Teflon being used aggravates that not pulling up factor, it is easier to crack parts with teflon used because the force pullup is even more gradual. In our shop back in the day we bought into the loctite new 'pipe sealer with TEFLON', after several cracked parts we dropped it and problem went away. D-mn stuff worked TOO well.

If OP has cracked it, try more sealer (not tape) and tighten LESS this time, less lets the crack close back up and might possibly seal. After that it'll be cleaning hole out super duper and epoxy part in with intention it can never come out again.
Wish this post was up before I started on it today. I busted the housing, exactly as you said. I couldn't feel it tightening up, and snap! there it went.
Oh, well. The housing was worn out anyway. The specified torque should have sealed it. I had put a new gasket on the adapter when I put the new switch in. Do I need to order a new switch and/or gasket?
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