bad cruise control - need parts name for replacement

[Technoholic]

Hi,
One weekend last summer, I found my car's cruise control wasn't working at all when I was driving home from DC.

Ford replaced my cruise control module that is behind the steering wheel I was told. Cheaper this one. And it turns out my cruise control was not fully restored and it cost a couple hundred bucks to replace the one under the hood.

The part that I want to replace under the hood, what is the name of this? Or if anyone have had the same experience, what was the solution?

From time to time while on the road, sometimes my cruise control stays on for long. Or at one point, it keeps shutting off. Sometimes cruise control won't come on at all.

The car is '06 Focus SES sedan.

Thanks in advance!

[mikeeshaq]

I do not have a 2006 Ford wiring manual

Taken from a 2010 Ford transit Connect Wiring manaul

Two main modules:
1. Electronic throttle control [ETC] module
2. Powertrain Control module (PCM)

Bring it back to Ford

[Technoholic]

Due to lack of response, I took a closer look to the cruise control module. Found the part number.

The mechanic pointed this part out to me, the part number is 6S43-9C735-AA, it is on eBay currently for $70 + shipping. I don't know if this is a good price, but it sure beats the hell out of getting through Ford.

[Edit] $180 + labor if through Ford. I just ordered the one on eBay.

[Lscman]

Are you planning to replace perfectly good cruise control parts one at a time until you find the one part that's bad? Good luck but that approach may be incredibly costly and time consuming. I would suggest referring to the factory manual to troubleshoot the system so the defective component can be identified and replaced. The part you bought is the servo module assembly. The trouble could be interconnect wiring, pedal interlock switches, steering clock spring, steering wheel switches or throttle actuator cable. Intermittent trouble can be the servo module assembly, but I'd rule other parts out first.

[rsnow]

im with the above post.... i work at a dealer and dont see may servo problems anymore. It may be as simple as a deactivation switch messing up.

[alz focus]

Having any problems with your brake lights lately?
That circuit is connected to the cc system.

[alz focus]

Give this a shot. I copied it from another post. It was how I figured out my cc problems.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

[Lscman]

That's a really neat procedure. It could come in handy to try, especially when the system fails intermittently. It's hard to troubleshoot & repair stuff when it's working most of the time. This test procedure could be tried in a couple minutes when it shuts down on the road. Maybe print it out and keep it in your glovebox.

[nevercell]

I'm having the same problem for the most part.

Mine stopped working the other day. When I try to activate it, the light comes on but doesn't engage. The speed falls down and the cruise control kicks off, making a bad grinding noise.

I used this test and didn't get the same results. When I press "set" it instantly blinked like the rest of the buttons and then the cruise control module made a horrible noise at the same time. So the light was instant, no delay, and no blinks afterwards. I'd like to assume it's the module but other people have mentioned the computer or buttons. With such a horrible noise, I don't see how it could be anything but the module. Any suggestions? Thank you.

Originally Posted by alz focus

Give this a shot. I copied it from another post. It was how I figured out my cc problems.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

[6SPD_soul]

Maybe try to get someone else to run the diagnostic while you listen more closely to the servo box, if the noise is definitely coming from there then you've found your problem. In fact I think you've found your problem anyway, the last part of the self diagnostic activates the mechanics in the cruise servo, and even a properly functioning servo will make an audible noise (at least in the focus).

The servo box can be dissasembled and inspected, I actually fixed one on someone elses ZX3. I was mostly curious about how it works (it's kind of cool, it's actually an electromagnet that couples with the cruise throttle cable, and the electromagnet moves back and forth from a stepper motor to change throttle opening. It's mechanically failsafe since the electromagnet is the part that couples with the cruise throttle cable) and it turned out to be repairable.

I don't know about why you got an immediate single flash after hitting set. The car I described above had dealer installed cruise control and I had no way to run the self diagnostic, so I can't compare it to your self diagnostic results.