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Old 12-27-2012, 10:10 PM   #1
sideswipe7
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2009 focus rough idle why?

Just changed plugs out being 50k on original plugs here in Michigan. Thought that might be problem guess not. Do think if I took it to autozone and had them hook up the scanner to it would they find anything or do I take it to dealership?


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Old 12-27-2012, 10:20 PM   #2
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i know a small rough idle is common but if it is anything like my 08 id take it to the dealer, i have scanned my car with a genesis scan tool several times nothing comes up, in my car if u put your head on the headrest it makes everthing blurry and the wheel shakes alot as well and to top it off im getting 16mpg.. but ive heard getting a sct tuner eliminates the rough idle and u get some other gains
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:33 AM   #3
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Purchasing a tuner for a vehicle with a rough idle and bad gas mileage will not give you what you want- and you'll be out $400.

When you changed the plug wires did you do anything else? Has any other work been done to the car, or was it driven 50k without any maintenance except oil changes?

If so, I recommend:
1) change the fuel filter. I will have to double check, but you might not have one. I've not worked on an 08+, and someone told me that Ford decided to put an in-tank filter on one of the Focis, maybe 2nd gen, maybe 3rd gen.
2) Check/change the air filter. If it's a K&N or other cotton/oil aftermarket filter, then you're probably ok. I wouldn't clean it at this time because when you clean and re-oil those the excess oil causes issues with the MAF. Wait until you get it running correctly unless it's covered in mud that sort of filter shouldn't be a problem.
3) Purchase some spray MAF cleaner, remove the MAF, carefully spray the cleaner into the holes in the corners of the MAF to clean it's resistors. Don't shove the straw in the corner holes because you might damage the resistors inside. Shake, re-install, and wait about 10 mins.
4) Disconnect the battery neg terminal. It's super easy on this car. Loosen that nut on top considerably, tap lightly on the top of the stud that the nut is on, and that should drive the wedge down, loosening the clamp. Removing this resets the PCM, and we're going to make it re-map when it reconnects.
5) After fuel filter, air filter, new plugs, and cleaning the MAF, you've just done a tune-up. There are a couple of things to double check. First off: look closely at the coils and make sure that the coil's plug-in connector tab is up in the locked position. After being changed a few times, those tabs get weak, and don't always pop up to lock like they should. A loose coil plug-in caused me a funky running situation for a while. Also look under the engine above the oil filter, and you'll see a hose about as big around as a finger that goes from a black box on the side of the engine block to the intake manifold. Grab that hose, use a flashlight, anything you can do to make sure that hose is not split open, disconnected, or damaged in any way. I have heard of these splitting open. This is the PCV vacuum line if you need to order a part. If yours is split- you'll figure it out- then remove it, take it with you to the parts store, you will probably have to match it to something they have on the shelf, and then cut to fit. You will need a molded hose. A straight hose will kink. Plug the intake manifold port somehow if you need to drive the car to the store to get a new hose- don't worry about the hole on the black box- it's best to leave that one open in this situation.
6) OK, reconnect the neg terminal after all repairs are done. If you had to drive your car to the store to get a PCV line, then disconnect the neg again while you replace the PCV line- I hope you have some long angled needle nose pliers. Start the engine but do not touch the accelerator. Set your radio clock, now allow the engine to idle without touching the accelerator for 6 minutes. During that time- if you have a tachometer- you'll notice slightly high idle, but that's ok, once the test times out, the idle will drop to normal which is around 700 rpm with a manual trans. With autos, I think it's 800, but might be as low as 700.

If this doesn't fix the problems, then let us know and we'll start checking other stuff. This is a basic tune-up for this car, and should get it back into good running condition. The next thing we'll check will probably be the alternator output with the electronic odometer trick and a short drive with the lights on.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:19 AM   #4
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I was actually about to post a thread about the same problem, here's a video of mine.

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:47 PM   #5
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I get in the 30's for gas mileage and I put seafoam in tank I used the 103 plugs and gapped the plugs to .55
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:11 AM   #6
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103s are one step colder, and might cause a low or rough idle- especially when the weather is colder.

How about the other stuff?
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:41 AM   #7
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Trying not to waste money on solving the issue. Trying to her issues other people have had with there focus. This is my first focus. So far that's all I have done to it
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:52 AM   #8
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It could merely be bad motor mounts. The passenger side (front) engine mount is always a suspect. You should inspect it by pushing on the rubber and seeing if that is still hard. It is supposed to be a fluid filled mount, but sometimes the fluid leaks out. If the fluid is gone, then the mount will feel mushy.
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