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Old 12-20-2012, 10:26 PM   #21
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Random problems are the worst. As they mentioned, that's one way to rule out the egr. Seems like an ignition issue to me. Either the coil itself or the connector. Sometimes it looks fine but there may be an intermittent connection.

brakes will get hard as the engine is either under load (open throttle) or shuts off... Either way it means there's no vacuum.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:27 PM   #22
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but would it make my brakes go hard.... that seems more towards vaccum, unless i am dealing with two different seperate issues that seem to have the problems at the same time completely randomly
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:40 AM   #23
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Well, when are you applying the brakes? at idle? how bad is the engine actually cutting out between that RPM range?

Try this on a car that works right..... step on the gas and pump the brakes. You'll notice it get hard. This is you losing your vacuum reserve and the inability to create more vacuum because the throttle plate is open.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:50 AM   #24
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If I hit the accelerator from a dead stop engine rpms go until about 2000 then engine starts to bog, at the same time brakes get hard as if I was pumping then when the car is turned off. If I tap the brake while I am moving it releives the pressure on the brake pedal and I can hit the accelerator again until it hits about 2000 rpms again then the brakes harden and engine bogs.

That is what is happening.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:06 AM   #25
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so, you're braking while accelerating? or by dead stop do you mean you're parked (auto or manual) and just revving it, and once it gets around that range it just starts to bog.... and you're pressing the brake down during the whole thing?
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:37 AM   #26
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OK first: tune up, and while you're at it replace your brake booster check valve. That's what you say when you get there to the parts store. They will know what it is, it's a generic part. You can pull yours off if you want- it's the 90 degree connector where the brake booster hose hits the booster.

1) Plugs
2) Plug wires
3) Air filter
4) Fuel filter
5) PCV check.
6) MAF cleaning
7) TB cleaning

Now what Mike is referring to is the common problem we have with ignition coil power wires- the ones that plug in through a connector on the bottom of the coil. Pull on the wires individually to see if any come out of the connector. Then, if one does, replace the connector with a part from the Ford Dealer. If the wires don't come off, trace that wiring down and make sure there is no physical damage to it. Sometimes this is difficult because physical damage- like wires melting on the EGR feed tube- is ALWAYS where it is difficult to see without reaching down in there and twisting the loom around. Definitely double check wiring in areas around hot exhaust stuff- including that EGR feed tube.

BTW, how do you know your EGR is working? Here's how to test an EGR valve- after you've cleaned it. Get where you can see the valve, put a hose on the other end, then suck lightly- about as much breath as it takes to fill up one cheek will operate the EGR valve. If it doesn't move, or you don't feel resistance to your vacuum- then it fails.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
so, you're braking while accelerating? or by dead stop do you mean you're parked (auto or manual) and just revving it, and once it gets around that range it just starts to bog.... and you're pressing the brake down during the whole thing?
I have to tap the brake after accelerating for a few seconds because the brake starts to harden , so i tap it , then the pressure goes away , then i can try an accelerate again , and so on. The engine still bogs at 2000 rpm during all this. then out of the blue it will work fine. no issues , and randomly and inttermittenly will work fine . car is automatic

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Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
OK first: tune up, and while you're at it replace your brake booster check valve. That's what you say when you get there to the parts store. They will know what it is, it's a generic part. You can pull yours off if you want- it's the 90 degree connector where the brake booster hose hits the booster.

1) Plugs
2) Plug wires
3) Air filter
4) Fuel filter
5) PCV check.
6) MAF cleaning
7) TB cleaning

Now what Mike is referring to is the common problem we have with ignition coil power wires- the ones that plug in through a connector on the bottom of the coil. Pull on the wires individually to see if any come out of the connector. Then, if one does, replace the connector with a part from the Ford Dealer. If the wires don't come off, trace that wiring down and make sure there is no physical damage to it. Sometimes this is difficult because physical damage- like wires melting on the EGR feed tube- is ALWAYS where it is difficult to see without reaching down in there and twisting the loom around. Definitely double check wiring in areas around hot exhaust stuff- including that EGR feed tube.

BTW, how do you know your EGR is working? Here's how to test an EGR valve- after you've cleaned it. Get where you can see the valve, put a hose on the other end, then suck lightly- about as much breath as it takes to fill up one cheek will operate the EGR valve. If it doesn't move, or you don't feel resistance to your vacuum- then it fails.
Tune up has been done , plugs , wires , air filter , fuel filter maf cleaning and TB cleaning. PCV is the only thing i did not do.

I will have a look at the coil wireing and see if i can trace any melting or damage.

When i had the mechanic change it he tested it with a vaccum gauge, or whatever he did to make sure he wasn`t installing a bad part.


So since we got 25cm of snow today i will probably not get a chance to check anything until atleast i shovel most of my snow. but i will report back once i have check the above things and let you know.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:29 PM   #28
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Sounds like the Brake Booster Check Valve took a dive or the diaphragm is leaking. Could be that the seals in the master are leaking, which will eat the booster.
Notice any loss of brake fluid over the last months?
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:50 PM   #29
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no brake fluid loss. But the check valve seems like a good possibility
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:32 AM   #30
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So car is in the shop , and the mechanic called me and he test drove it and did not bog , but he did throw his computer on and it showed history of the Cylinder head temp senor was out of range. He also told me this can still cause the bogging. However anywhere i have seen and read issue with this sensor are due to temperature ranges not bogging.

Anyone have any experience with the sensor to confirm or deny that it can cause bogging


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