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Old 12-15-2012, 07:30 PM   #1
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DTC 9205 , alternator issues , im about to lose my mind.

04 duratec. ill make a long story short. had an issue with my lights flickering. Battery light would come on when i turned the headlights on. Replaced alternator ( tested good ) and battery light came on instantly. So i replaced the pigtail to the alt , and now i have code 9205 which is a short in the wiring.

I made sure my splices were good so it should be a problem. Tomorrow im going to recheck my work. I have a spare harness that i cut the plug from , i may just splice it back on and try it. i also have a spare harness for the positive cable to the alt. could that wire be causing any issues where it connects to the starter ?

Im losing my mind as i was suppose to be selling this car , and it wont freakin charge.

oh , one more thing. with the old alternator the interior and exterior lights flickered. with the new alternator , even though it wasnt charging the battery the flickering went away completley. Im completley stumped.


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Old 12-15-2012, 08:06 PM   #2
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i used my DMM and got a reading 12.8 off the red wire and about 9.5 off the grey wire.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fattie View Post
and now i have code 9205 which is a short in the wiring.
Dealer Test Mode 9205 = DTC code B1205 = IC (Instrument Cluster) Switch 1 Assembly Circuit Failure (Open or Short to Battery)

Check:
fuse 10 - battery voltage sensor
fuse 61 - PATS, instrument cluster
Your model year should have a large in line fuse in the thick red cable between the starter motor and alterator (175A). Check it. I believe Ford started using the in line fuse in the Duratec engined cars. Regardless, check the continuity of that cable.
You didn't mix up the alternator connector wiring sequence when splicing by chance, did you?
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
Dealer Test Mode 9205 = DTC code B1205 = IC (Instrument Cluster) Switch 1 Assembly Circuit Failure (Open or Short to Battery)

Check:
fuse 10 - battery voltage sensor
fuse 61 - PATS, instrument cluster
Your model year should have a large in line fuse in the thick red cable between the starter motor and alterator (175A). Check it. I believe Ford started using the in line fuse in the Duratec engined cars. Regardless, check the continuity of that cable.
You didn't mix up the alternator connector wiring sequence when splicing by chance, did you?

i dont believe this car had an inline fuse in the postive cable. i pulled the spare wire from the 2.3 engine that was originally in the car and there is no fuse. i checked every fuse in the car and they all tested fine.

the alternator 3 wire connector is color coded and i got them right. im going to pull it back apart and solder the wires so i know i have a good connection.

there is also a chance the plug on that car was bad too , but i kind of doubt it.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:37 AM   #5
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I have a charging circuit wiring diagram for the 2006 model year if that would help. I'd start checking the continuity of wires with your multimeter including those going to the cluster and PCM.
pm if you can use the diagram. Sorry I'm out of ideas after that.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #6
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pmd. thank you.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:45 PM   #7
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stupid me , i rechecked the positive cable and there is a fuse. is this servicable or does the whole wire need replacing ?
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:25 PM   #8
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pulled the big harness apart on the valve cover and tested the 3 wires from the plug , got about the same readings from the red and grey and blue didnt show anything. all the fuses checked out as well.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:47 PM   #9
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ok so im thinking the problem lies in the main harness somewhere.

one question , since the plug to the alt doesnt have the voltage it should , could that rule out the postive cable being the problem ?

BC ZX3 was nice enough to email me a diagram of the wiring. i think im gunna have to track down the 3 wires through the harness and find out where the issue is.

one thing i dont get, is the car was fine for about a week, no issues besides the lights flickering. car was starting and charging just fine. Once the new alternator was in everything was screwed up.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fattie View Post
one question , since the plug to the alt doesnt have the voltage it should , could that rule out the postive cable being the problem ?
Not sure I understand the question. The thin red wire to the alt (part of the connector) should be supplying 12V direct from the fusebox The large red cable (B+) is the alt output. To make electricty, alternators need 12V power. As a first step, make sure you see 12V at the red wire alt plug connector. (I think you've confimed this already.)
If possible, simply work around the existing thick red cable to test if it is suspect. A battery jumper cable should suffice for testing. Simply run it from the alt B+ connector to the battery terminal bypassing the starter and inline fuse.
A couple of other points:
The alternator body should be grounded as shown on the wiring diagram. Usually the mounting bolts do that but check your engine block grounds.
It is not out of the question that your "new" alternator is faulty out of the box. Lots of stories on FF of questionable quality reman units.
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