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Old 12-12-2013, 06:05 PM   #1
DannyG
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SVT compression test results

Hello FocusFanatics! I recently picked up a competition orange SVT and am new to the Ford car scene. I have read up a lot on various forums about the SVT and have read some very helpful comments and tips. Also read through some disastrous engine destruction threads haha, well thankfully the engine in my SVT isn't in bad shape but has some low compression results:

1st compression test (PSI): 88 89 92 96

Compression test #2 with a bit of oil added to the cylinder: 92 94 100 102

My question to you guys is how should I interpret these results?? I'm going to be doing a basic engine rebuild with new gaskets and such. From what I understand I have some compression leaking in the cylinder - so my thoughts were that I probably don't need to get the block machined but a new set of piston rings should fix that. And then of course the valves are leaking some compression too. I'm going to start working on this in about a week and am starting to piece together the list of things I need. Tousley ford has a nice upper and lower gasket kit set for some good prices. Is there anything else that would be recommended or any other info/advice? IS there anything I'm overlooking/misunderstanding? Any and all comments are appreciated! Thanks in advance!


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Old 12-13-2013, 12:36 AM   #2
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Don't put new rings in without at least honing the cylinders. If you are going that far just take it to the machine shop and have them check it out.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:48 AM   #3
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Due to the VCT on the intake cam, compression tests are always going to read low on these engines. Typically, good compression tests on a WARM engine are in the 120 psi range. Yours are not as bad as i've seen, and they are right at 10% relative percent difference ( (high-low)/(average of high and low) )

How do you know you have compression leaking into the crankcase and past the valves? Did you do a leak down test?

As bluebronco suggests, new rings without honing the cylinders isn't ideal and is asking for premature wear of your new rings.

Plus, if the head is coming off to fix the leaky valves, a squaring of the block and head mating surfaces will bump compression slightly.

And since the head will be off, a casting clean up of the ports couldn't hurt...along with new valves, valve springs, valve stem seals...
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:17 PM   #4
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^ all of this
Your best bet right now is to get the head off and get a better view of whats going on inside your engine. There was another member a while ago who had similar problems with his engine, and it turned out to be a blown head gasket which was a fairly easy fix.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:31 PM   #5
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Your # are actually pretty good , I wouldnt worry about things much and just do a good rebuild , I would go with the ARP head bolts even on a stock rebuild and TQ them at least 6-8 times and go from there

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Old 12-14-2013, 04:49 PM   #6
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Danny - random question but did you buy this SVT from baltimore, MD? I test drove an orange car with similar compression and wound up finding another because of it.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the input guys, I really love the amount of helpful tips i'm getting here! The engine is starting to get worked on this week, I will be working on it piece by piece. First of all I would like to ask you guys which way is the easiest to take out the engine? Out the top or drop it down under the car? From what I've seen online people have been dropping it down the bottom and just lifting the car. There is some oil leaking through what seems to be the rear seal (between the engine and tranny area). I already ordered the gasket kits (the catalogs were throwing up different parts that were included so I don't know which ones I'll get until I get the kits shipped home, but the main ones are in for sure - head gasket, bulkhead gasket, valve cover gasket, etc.), new timing belt with tensioner and idler, new water pump. So I'll piece together any other items I might need later. So yes, we will see how the inside is looking when I start taking it apart. I'll be updating this thread with pictures as well. If I hone the cylinder walls will it be necessary to put in new rings? In regards to the head bolts, any considerable difference between those ARP bolts and the OEM ones? Fusee - I purchased the car off a car auction and it was from Michigan. So I don't think that's the one :) Thanks again guys! Looking forward to hearing from you.
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fusee View Post
Danny - random question but did you buy this SVT from baltimore, MD? I test drove an orange car with similar compression and wound up finding another because of it.
Is this the one with faded bumpers? It had the EAP, right? I checked it out too.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:52 PM   #9
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Sorry I thought you were asking about my car.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:38 AM   #10
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So I made space for the SVT in the garage and started out yesterday by checking the clearances on the valves. According to information from autozone guides, the clearance on a "5 vin"/SVT for intake valve clearance should be between 0.008-0.011 inches and the exhaust between 0.013-0.016 inches. All of them were pretty much within the range with the exception of 3 exhaust valves (at 0.017, 0.017, and 0.018) and one intake valve (0.012). Is this something to really be concerned about? The engine seems a little noisy from the valves when it runs. As for the head bolts on the car, can they be re-used or should they be replaced? Here are some pictures to begin I will try to update and maintain this thread to the best of my ability.





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