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Old 11-29-2012, 06:47 AM   #11
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Oh and I also want to add if it's been a while or if you never changed the transmission fluid it may be a good idea to do that too. The ford honey mentioned earlier really does help in the shifting with the cold. What's ford honey you ask? It's synthetic manual transmission fluid you can find it HERE or at your local dealer, it's pricey though, and it looks like honey and almost smells just has sweet hence the nick name ford honey.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:48 AM   #12
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Here is a link to some clutch master cylinders. Shop around for the best price, but here are two of them HERE and HERE
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:12 AM   #13
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Gotcha, me and my wishful Thinking. Yup before I started working on my car yesterday I got the fluid. Was gonn change it if bleeding the clutch did not work. We'll at least on Saturday I'm free to change that and the master Cylinder.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:51 AM   #14
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CGfreak102, have you tracked the leak down? And have you verified that the fluid level is dropping in the reservoir?

I was wondering if your over-filling of the reservoir might've provided a travel path for the excess fluid, allowing it to drip onto the pedal? (I don't know the configuration of the setup on the Focus, so I don't know if this is possible.)


wisebag02, yes, it's a lot less hassle & expense to flush this once a year (or two for the brakes) than it is to ignore it until it gives you proplems. Not to mention the safety factor involved with maintaining your brake system! Heck, just always having a nicely working clutch is well worth the few minutes it takes to do this!
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:32 PM   #15
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I don't know if I know how to flush an entire brake system. Do you just bleed it all out through the brake bleeder screws while adding new fluid to the reservoir?
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #16
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Kind of... it's actually pretty easy if you have the right tools. (Just like everything else, right?)

The fluid doesn't like to drain out on its own, so you need to either push it or pull it out. Some people like to have a friend push the brake pedal while they crack the bleeder valve. Some people like to use a hand-held vacuum pump (like a Mighty Vac) to suck the fluid out from the wheel/caliper. I prefer to push it out from the reservoir with a pressure bleeder. I like the Motive Pressure Bleeder. If you use a friend or a vacuum pump, then you have to keep topping up the reservoir to make sure you don't pull any air into your lines. If you use the pressure bleeder, it constantly feeds in fresh fluid as you drain out the old stuff.

Pressure bleeding goes roughly like this:
1) Buy two liters of DOT 3 (or DOT 4) brake fluid.
2) Suck out as much old fluid as you can from the reservoir, then fill it back up to the "Full" line with fresh fluid.
3) Add a liter of fluid to your pressure bleeder & attach it to the reservoir.
4) Pump it up to 10 to 20 psi, then go around & bleed each wheel & the clutch.
5) Remove at least 8 ounces from each line.
6) You might need to re-pump the bleeder if you want the fluid to keep moving out quickly. I wouldn't pump it up above 20 psi.
7) Make sure you don't run the bleeder dry, or you might push air into whichever line you're working on at that time. Fortunately, with a pressure bleeder, it's quick & simple to get all of the air out of any part of the system.

I'm sure there's a proper bleed order for the Focus wheels, but I don't recall what it is.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:14 PM   #17
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Eiron,
It has dropped to just below the max line, I have also found out where the fluid comes from. when releasing the clutch a small amount comes out of the whole where the white plastic thing goes in and out.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:26 PM   #18
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Sorry, my Saab doesn't have a white plastic thing...

I'm going to guess that this is the piston rod to the clutch master cylinder, which would mean that the seals have worn enough to allow fluid to push past & dribble out the back end (where the pedal connects).

I can buy a rebuild kit for mine for about $12 that includes all new seals & washers, but I don't know if the same kind of thing is offered for the Focus. It also requires a smooth internal bore to the master cylinder, which sometimes no longer exists. But at $12, it's a cheap repair to try before being forced to buy a new master at $200 (again, Saab parts & pricing).


P.S.,
Am I the only one who thinks of Felix the Cat every time I see/hear/say the words "Master Cylinder"?
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Last edited by Eiron; 11-30-2012 at 06:29 PM. Reason: old age
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #19
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CG - leakage there means new master cyl., but it's not tragic - I just did mine & autozone had an EXACT factory match for $35.

And the instructions you can find on the site here work fine... Checked 'em when I did mine just for chuckles to see how well it matched my car.

(when you read them, the only difference I found was NOT having to unbolt the "block", slide clip was all I needed to touch there, you'll see it on the new part)

Luck!
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:16 PM   #20
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Yup, got one ordered will be picking it up. found a nice guide with pics on how to do it also on here.

Also changing out my fuel filter.
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