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Old 01-26-2013, 06:45 PM   #61
thejordan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeygrits View Post
So really all you would need to do instead of running the trigger wire from the relay to the switch would be to run the trigger wire directly to the parking light with a fuse of course to achieve what hes asking? Which would negate the switch and turn your fogs on when the parking lights were on but not draw but an amp or so from the parking lights?
that's what i was thinking except use the headlights instead of the parking lights because the parking lights turn on when you unlock your car and you don't want your fogs on for that. the BCM shouldn't care about +/- 1 amp. i have no way of trying until i buy everything though.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:00 AM   #62
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@MonkeyGrits - Yes. Shouldn't really need a fuse as the circuit is already fused.
@The Jordan - No. (Actually your way might work, but I'm not sure. It's not the voltage drop that would worry me - it's two things: I don't think there is a convenient low-current wire to tap off of for the signal for the headlights on switch. Also, the car sensing the wire to let you know when a headlight is burned out - not sure if it is sensing voltage or resistance or if it matters, but it might cause you to get a headlight out indication on the dash.

Chaddz3 explains what HE did in the other thread (and the post above the one I linked to):

What we are going to do is build a Fog Light Control Module Relay Box that will run the fog lights only when certain conditions are present. (Ie only when we want them to be on)...

Since our cars like to kick the parking lights on when we use the key fob to unlock the car, we can't just simply tap into the parking light wiring just by itself.. otherwise the foglights will light up when ever the parking lights do, Since i live in an apartment this would really piss off my neighbors. Plus it don't look very professional..

But also we just cant tap in to the ignition either or our fogs would be on when ever the key is on... (Don't want that either)...

By using two relays and feeding one relay off the ignition feed, and one of the parking lights feed, and having the fog lights driven directly off the battery, We have more control over when the fogs can come on. I wired mine so that both relays have to be active in order to have the fog lights active. The ignition relay is first in the line, followed by the parking lights relay. if either the ignition switch is off, or the parking lights/Headlights are off, the fog lights will be off too.

Second reason for the relay setup, is since every light in the car is driven off the BCM, there is a possibility that by driving the fog lights directly off the parking light circuit (without their own power source), it could overload the parking light circuit inside the BCM and possibly burn the traces for that circuit on the circuit board (which means you have to replace the BCM). Granted nothing may happen but since they want more than the GDP of some small African Nations to replace the damn thing, Driving them directly off the parking lights or any other BCM output is something i don't wanna try.

Overall, building the Control Module and tapping it in to the car's wiring is not really very difficult, but if you don't like dealing with wiring or unsure, i wouldn't try it. Since we are dealing with the body control module, it can be damaged if you aint careful.

All I Can say is this did work on my car with no ill side effects during testing. If you screw up your car, I'm not responsible..

14 Verify the fog lamps are functioning correctly in all operating modes

Key off - Fog lights off regardless of headlamp Switch Position.
Key On - HeadLights Off - Parking Lights Off - Fog Lamps Off
Key On - Headlights Off - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - Headlights ON LowBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - HeadLights ON HighBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On.

Key Off - Headlights Off - UnLock Car with Key Fob (or open car door with key off) - Park Lights On - Fog Lights Off.


Obviously, he put a lot of thought into this.

If you read through the other thread - Ford ran the wiring from the BCM to under the hood already - so you only need a $15 harness that Ford left out to connect the fogs. (At least on the 2012 Focus S - I would assume they did on the 2013 Focus SE - but who knows with Ford ...)

Now you can wire in two $5 relays inside the car to turn the fogs on.

I don't see any reason you couldn't do the wiring under the hood if you wanted to, but you would have to find a 12V ACC IGN source and a parking light circuit under the hood, and the factory wiring is already there and unused.

Differences between your circuit, his circuit, and the OEM circuit:
  • Only the OEM circuit turns on the green indicator in the cluster to tell you the fogs are on.
  • Both your and Chaddz3's circuit will turn the fogs on whenever the parking lights are on and the ignition is in RUN. I don't think the OEM system allows you to run fogs without headlights, but it's a popular mod.
  • The OEM system cuts the fogs off when you use the high-beams (techically required by law in some states). You could add a third relay to do this, but it isn't necessary.
  • Without wiring in the toggle switch, the fogs are going to be on ANY time the parking lights are on and the ignition is in RUN. Not a huge deal, but you won't be able to run the headlights without the fogs, or stop the car at night to wait for someone with the engine and parking lights on and the fogs off.
  • Personally - if I were doing this, I would wire it up the way Chaddz3 did, wire the switch in the way he did but put the switch in some obscure spot (maybe somewhere inside the glove box) and leave the switch on unless I "really" wanted to have the fog lights turned off for whatever reason.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:16 PM   #63
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I understand what Chad did. I was just seeing if I could just use a switch (left to on) that would work in the similar place as the 2nd relay to the parking lights.

Either way, w/ my '13 SE, someone else tried seeing if the BCM would take adding fogs and it didn't. The BCM didn't want to accept a new program (apparently it's VIN specific and not really programmable). So, not sure what you're insinuating about the OEM harness. Are you suggesting I run the OEM harness to the relay?

Thanks again for all the info.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejordan View Post
I understand what Chad did.
Read through it again - especially posts #11, #18, #19, and #40.

Quote:
I was just seeing if I could just use a switch (left to on) that would work in the similar place as the 2nd relay to the parking lights.
Sorry, not quite following you here. Chaddz3's schematic doesn't show it, but he has a switch feeding the 2nd relay to the parking lights. I would recommend wiring this switch in and leaving it turned on 80% of the time. That way, the fogs will come on when the ignition is in RUN and the parking lights are active - but you can turn them off with the switch if you ever wanted to for any reason.

Now if you are asking about wiring in a switch INSTEAD of wiring in the relay - as MonkeyGrits said - that would POWER the fog lights off the parking lights circuit. It MIGHT work, but I don't think it's a good idea - you're risking best case blown fuses and worst case an electrical fire or fried BCM to avoid wiring in a $5 relay.

Quote:
Either way, w/ my '13 SE, someone else tried seeing if the BCM would take adding fogs and it didn't. The BCM didn't want to accept a new program (apparently it's VIN specific and not really programmable).
Right - I was disappointed to hear that as well. (Although, I think if you could get the dealer to flash the BCM with the VIN of an '13 with the SE Appearance package, it might allow you to activate the fogs then.) Hard to find a dealer willing to do that though, and I can't say it wouldn't maybe cause other issues (like possibly flagging a code that the ambient lighting had failed since a '13 SE did not have it.)

I know your BCM probably won't work with fogs as-is. But Chaddz3's Focus S BCM wouldn't either and he didn't even have the fuse for the fogs, but he DID have the wiring from the BCM to the front of the car.

Quote:
So, not sure what you're insinuating about the OEM harness. Are you suggesting I run the OEM harness to the relay?
Essentially, that's what ChaddZ3 did. For lack of a better term, I like the "elegance" of ChaddZ3's solution.

First thing I would do is see if you have the C144 connector on the drivers side of the car near the fog light location and if you have the two brown wires that he mentions at Pins 18 and 19 of the BCM connector near the glove box.

Assuming you do - get Harness CV6Z15K867B - lists for $14.32. This goes to the fog lights from C144. It's not much more than buying the plugs from the autoparts store and you don't have any splices showing. Then personally, I would wire it up like Chad did - leaving out or hiding the switch if you wanted to.

The reasons I like this:
  • Everything under the hood looks (well, IS) factory. Doesn't matter too much, but it makes it less likely when you take the car in for warranty work that the dealer will say "Ah, wire splices at the battery and the fog lights !!! No wonder your AC compressor isn't working - sorry, no warranty on this!!!" (Legally, they can't do that, and technically, they could see the unauthorized relays at the BCM, but no reason to make it obvious for them.
  • You wouldn't be doing this if you don't install the switch, but if you wanted a switch, Chad's solution means you don't have to run wiring through the firewall to get from the switch to the relay.
  • The relays are inside the interior, so no worries about them getting moisture on them or sucked into the engine or anything else.
  • Chad does electrical work for a living. Personally, I think it's a bit of overkill setting the relays in epoxy and de-pinning the connectors for the fogs and inserting dummy pins on a connector that isn't used. I'd likely just get two clip-together relays and tap or cut and splice into the wiring, but his way is more professional and it's his car.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:18 PM   #65
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Sounds like a plan, thank you!
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:39 AM   #66
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So I got my fog lights installed and went to run the wires into the cabin and I can't seem to find a place to pull the wires thru the firewall and the a pillar doesn't look promising, any advise????

I'm running an H11 fog light wiring kit with Injet Ford Focus housings.
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:29 AM   #67
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If you have an auto there should be a clutch plate on the firewall where the clutch would go and you can go through that. If your like me with a manual i went through the grommet on the passenger side. If you drop the glovebox its quite easy to run wires through it.

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Old 09-11-2013, 07:44 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supramk3 View Post
So I got my fog lights installed and went to run the wires into the cabin and I can't seem to find a place to pull the wires thru the firewall and the a pillar doesn't look promising, any advise????

I'm running an H11 fog light wiring kit with Injet Ford Focus housings.
Drop the glove box and you will see a very large black grommet. There is extra space at the edge of the grommet where you can drill a new hole or cut it with an x-acto knife. Just be VERY CAREFUL not to damage the existing wire bundle.

For my install, I mounted the fog light relay in the engine bay on near the drivers side, up close to where the hood pivots near the windshield. It's almost hidden. I ran the wires along the very top of the firewall over to the passenger side and then down to that large grommet. I also installed a switch in line so that I can turn off the fog lights if I don't want them to come on, since otherwise they will always be on with the add-a-fuse.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #69
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I just looked at my car and on the driver side firewall there's a area of the foam deadening material that is cut already. If you peel it back there's a black rubber square grommet that should be good.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #70
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Thanks guys!!! Glove box it is
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