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Old 12-28-2012, 01:19 PM   #31
Monkeygrits
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Those are LEDS. We are installing 2 55 watt bulbs. I dont know what the draw would be on the hot wire going from the switch to the parking lamps. Im not risking it. Need to find a power source that turns on with the key that doesnt go through the BCM. Hopefully someone else will chime in.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:35 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeygrits View Post
Those are LEDS. We are installing 2 55 watt bulbs. I dont know what the draw would be on the hot wire going from the switch to the parking lamps. Im not risking it. Need to find a power source that turns on with the key that doesnt go through the BCM. Hopefully someone else will chime in.
Keep it posted in this thread, I'd like this info too. I hate how the BCM makes everything too difficult on these cars.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:27 PM   #33
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Would it not be possible to add a +12v junction somewhere safe/accessable and relay it with the ignition line to give adequate power? I did that with a previous car for a horn and hid's and it worked well.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:56 PM   #34
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Fuse 80 is the moonroof which my car is not equipped with. Ill be checking to see if that fuse is powered with the ignition. Not sure if it goes through the BCM either. I saw others were powering radar detectors from here.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #35
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My hillbilly fix would be to wire a new line somewhere near the box and just use that as power. I had a Matrix and did it like this (with a fuse of course) and it worked well. The ignition can cut the power when off and would work for that.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:17 PM   #36
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Any update?
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:17 PM   #37
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Not sure Im following cheekdaves post above...
Got the H11 sockets today. Only thing I need is the foglight bezels. Might start wiring it up on Wednesday or Thursday. Still not sure about the ignition power wire that goes to the switch. Might just run it back out to the battery for now.

Edit: Just got these off ebay from China...We will see if I get them lol
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=140890467810

Edit: Also ordered a set of yellow lamin x covers for my fogs. Since theyre thick glass, I don't want them getting chipped or broken with all the rocks spread on the roads in winter here.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:09 PM   #38
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Can't wait to see it done. As soon as I go back to work I'm going to do this.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:41 AM   #39
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Ok I started wiring. I hope someone can help me though. I need to know where to run the wire into the cabin for the switch from the relay which is out under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Heres where I mounted the relay. Its behind the fuse box on the bolt that holds the fuse box. I ran my ground for the relay and for the lights to the main gtound for the battery beside the relay in the pic. The green wire needs to go into the cabin. Its just laying up on the cowl in the pic.


After a little research I guess I may have to run the wire through the main harness grommet on the passenger side then run it back to the drivers side.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #40
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The wire that goes to the low beams then goes to the switch and is connected to the relay coil. This is used to turn the relay on and off. This is very low power - only about 1/2 an amp. The main power goes directly to the battery and the relay contacts. When the relay closes the battery power flows to the lights. This is fused for about 20 amps.

There are many benefits to this design. Only low power wiring in the cabin. If you turn on the High beams the fogs lights will go out. You can use a smaller switch and small wiring in the cabin. The only issue is running the wire from the engine bay to the cabin.

If you are wiring driving or pencil beam rally lights move the switch feeder wire from the low beam to the high beam wire. Now if you dim the main lights all the rally lights will turn off too.

Good luck,

Steve
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