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Old 11-16-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
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Official 2012+ Focus Used Oil Analysis thread

I'm starting this thread for those who are curious about "which lubricants perform the best" in the Ford Ford 2.0L engine. So many threads emerge in numerous car forums asking the same question frequently. This thread is intended to put those questions to rest.

We can use this thread exclusively for lubricant used oil analysis reports and in depth discussion of engine lubricants. For reference of where I would like to see this thread go, click the link below to see what we (myself and other members) have created in the GT500 forums.

GT500 UOA thread

If anyone needs to know where to get oil testing, visit one of the website links below. Please, if you have your oil tested with Blackstone....opt for the extra $10.00 to have TBN tested. OAI provides TBN testing included with the price. OAI also tests for oxidation (Blackstone does not). Both labs will yield very close consistent results.

Blackstone - will cost $25.00 for basic test, $35.00 with TBN, plus the cost of shipping ($1.90 USPS)

OAI testing kits UPS prepaid - will cost $32.20 - Amsoil preferred customers get this test for $25.95

I would like to duplicate the same type of Excel spreadsheet for the Ford Focus crowd. For starters, I am posting my current Used Oil Analysis.



*please note that I didn't change the oil at this time, it was sampled through the dipstick tube, and still in extended use testing*

Not only am I using an engine lubricant that is far superior to Motorcraft 5W-20, but also utilizing an engine oil bypass filtration unit. This allows a very small volume of the oil flow to be filtered down to 1 micron, extending the engines life far beyond most consumers expectations.



Despite using a bypass filtration system, which as you can see....has minimized engine wear, it has another benefit. The engine now has a 7 quart capacity. I should be able to extend oil change intervals up to 2 years, or 25,000 miles easily. After the latest UOA report, it confirms that this lubricant has a LOT of remaining life.

Compare TBN (Total Base Number - detergent additives) in both samples.

Sample #1 - Motorcraft 5W-20 @ 945 miles - remaining additives are only measuring in at 6.29

Sample #2 - Amsoil ALM 5W-20 @ 5310 miles - remaining additives are measuring in at 7.23

*1.0 or lower is the "must change" warning zone.

5 times more miles, yet still a higher TBN content. Yep, kicking Motorcraft's butt there.

Viscosity, Amsoil didn't shear at all....maintaining its virgin specification of 8.8 cSt. Can't say that about Motorcraft, as it sheared (thinned) down to 7.6 cSt. Virgin specs for MC 5W-20 are ~8.5 cSt

I will not comment about wear metal ppm comparison at this time because the initial fill of Motorcraft was the break in fill. Elevated wear ppm is expected, and is of no fault to Motorcraft's formulation.

So there you have it, this thread is to build up many UOA reports to see trends. We can easily determine what lubricants are performers, and which ones are not the best choice. This requires many different UOAs, intervals, formulations, etc. and will take some time to build. We have invested over two years into the GT500 version, and it's still growing.


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Old 11-16-2012, 10:34 AM   #2
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how does one go about installing a bypass kit like yours
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsuaves View Post
how does one go about installing a bypass kit like yours
You buy the parts from Amsoil, then install it at home in an afternoon. I will see about posting a parts list here for everyone to see. There are a few options, so I will try to cover them all in detail.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:33 PM   #4
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as requested, here is the parts list and install guide for a bypass filtration system. There are two systems to choose from, a single or dual kit.

The single kit installs only a remote bypass filter (not relocating the OEM filter)

The dual kit relocates the OEM filter location right beside the bypass filter. This is the route that I went, as you can see in the picture in post #1 of this thread. Some will find it's far easier to install the single bypass kit, as you have more than one mounting options. With the dual kit, you can only put it in one place, the same place I had to. It's much larger, with room nowhere else.

With that being said, let me start with only the parts list for the single kit. It's also cheaper. If anyone prefers the dual option, let me know.

BMK21 install .pdf

BMK21 Bypass kit

EaBP-90 bypass filter

I'd suggest replacing your OEM Ford Motorcraft filter with this one. It filters better (nano fiber) and has more oil capacity.

EaO34

Those who are uncomfortable drilling into the oil pan for a return line can always use the oil cap tip outlined in the install guide.

Remember that installing this kit will increase oil sump capacity up to ~7 quarts.

Those who are really serious about this upgrade, looking to buy it, should really sign up as a preferred customer. It will reduce the total price by 25%.

Preferred Customer

Here is another post I made about a parts list for the dual remote bypass system like I installed.

Link
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:22 PM   #5
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That's a good-looking UOA.

Just two comments:

kam327 posted a UOA a few months ago for oil in use about 5,000 miles following an initial drain and fill at about 1,500. So very similar to yours. Kam used conventional Pennzoil. Wear metals from Kam compared to yours are:
Iron 13 (yours 9), Aluminum 5 (yours 4), Chromium 1 (yours 0), Copper 7 (yours 5) and lead and tin 0, like yours. The TBN was considerably lower at 3.9. The point is both are excellent results and indicative of great wearing engines, suggesting all modern oils do a great job. The differences between the two of a couple parts per million is insignificant, especially given different analysis labs were used and driving conditions probably differed.

Regarding TBN, oils start with different levels. Amsoil SSO, which is intended to be an extended drain oil probably starts with a Total Base Number of about 12. Motorcraft, which is not an extended drain oil probably starts with a TBN around 8. So both oils are doing exactly what was intended.

My conclusion from all of this is that it's easy to over think the oil thing. Any modern oil used with a sensible drain interval will likely allow the engine to far outlast the rest of the car, unless it is driven in truly extreme conditions.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:43 PM   #6
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Dan, you are correct that all modern engine lubricants do an acceptable job in an engine. There are other advantages of using a higher quality product, like...lower NOACK, lower frictional coefficient of the base stock, etc.

Amsoil's Signature Series lubricants are extended drain, and do have higher TBN content from the start.

Can you find his UOA and bring it to this thread. That would be great, and the first of hopefully many additions to the excel spreadsheet.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:27 PM   #7
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I have used AMS-oil for about 8 years in my ZX2. When I had to change the cam cover gasket I had a chance to look inside. I say it looks new (except for cam wear). My change interval is about 18,000 miles (once a year). I should do that oil analysis to see how it's doing. I have never thought of that.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast View Post
Can you find his UOA and bring it to this thread. That would be great, and the first of hopefully many additions to the excel spreadsheet.
Here's the thread, the 'first' UOA thread on this site (3rd Gen anyway). I thought you already added it to your spreadsheet since you commented in the thread.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295835

I'd be interested in a long term payback analysis of the bypass system. You can do a heck of a lot of extra conventional oil changes for the several hundred bucks it takes to put in a bypass system. And a bypass system doesn't take fuel and water out of the oil, should it make its way in there, does it?
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:33 PM   #9
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Regarding Fuel Dilution , I notice the posted UOA shows an "estimate" of less than 1%. Does this mean that it was not specifically tested?
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Regarding Fuel Dilution , I notice the posted UOA shows an "estimate" of less than 1%. Does this mean that it was not specifically tested?
No, that means that it was either absent of moisture or less than 1%. They always test, however, tested indirectly.

The flashpoint of a lubricant is lower when higher percentages of dilution are present.
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