IMPORTANT: ALL MK3 Focus Owners, I could use your input.

[Shade-010]

Originally Posted by Zillon

Very true, however, the bolts I've chosen are long enough to support the addition of the reinforcement plate with the taller spacers.

I'm currently using 25mm long bolts with the factory spacers, and still have a few threads showing underneath the strut mount. The reinforcement plate can't be any thicker than 5mm.

Don't worry, I've done my homework on making sure the bolts are long enough.

I figured you had, but I was just trying to see if you were gonna go fords route with bolts to chk to see if Ford did it right or not. lol

[Lipshurt]

Originally Posted by hand-filer

I think a better solution is to install the brace with the reinforcing plate. If there is indeed that much movement between the existing parts, a sheet metal screw isn't going to cut it. You need to address the structural weakness of the strut tower.

It's just that the brace and tower do not fit exactly together. If anything is weak, it's the brace. But the function of the brace is to reinforce the locations of the top of the struts. The brace is not stretching. It's just vibrating where there is space between the sheet metal. A simple gasket would do it. The machine screw won't have to hold anything structural. It wold simply stop the vibration. The same way wedging a credit card in there stops the vibration.

Fords reinforcing of the brace might even be soft material rather than a reinforcement. It kind of looks like a gasket. If they wanted it thicker and stronger, it would be way easier to just the whole brace thicker. Why graft on a second piece. That's another assembly step.

[Zillon]

I've even recently toyed with the thought of perhaps a few coats of plastidip on the bottom of the strut brace.

I'm waiting to see what happens after I install the new brace, first, though. Baby steps.

[hand-filer]

Originally Posted by Zillon

I've even recently toyed with the thought of perhaps a few coats of plastidip on the bottom of the strut brace.

Or you might want to consider using polyurethane windshield adhesive. It would isolate the 2 parts as well as provide a structural bond.
We use it on our transit window and door products. Awesome stuff.

[Zillon]

RTV silicone would probably work just as well, too, and be easier to remove should I ever need to change suspension parts out again. I don't necessarily need the structural element, just the isolation.

I know windshield sealant can be stubborn when it comes time to remove it.

[hand-filer]

Originally Posted by Zillon

RTV silicone would probably work just as well, too, and be easier to remove should I ever need to change suspension parts out again. I don't necessarily need the structural element, just the isolation.

I know windshield sealant can be stubborn when it comes time to remove it.

Why would you need to remove the strut brace to change suspension parts?
Am I missing something here?

[Zillon]

True, I suppose you do have a valid point there.

I was thinking more along the lines for if Koni ever debuts an adjustable sport damper for the MK3 Focus, but in that case, I'd just be drilling a hole straight through the center of the strut brace for the adjustment knob to reach the top of the strut.

[sgmfocus]

Zillon had an idea or suggestion,i use to have an 04 dodge stratus they had a clunking noise on 01 thru 05 sedan model years. they issued a tsb here are the symptoms
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Vehicle produces an intermittent front end popping or clunk type sound while driving over road inputs that cause the body to come under a twisting load. This sound may also be produced when in park & idle by turning the steering wheel quickly, 90 degrees, to the left and back to the right
is this the clunk that everyone has? the clunk was coming from wheel well where it joined firewall fix was putting in two rivets .i have the whole tsb if you think it might help

[Zillon]

The clunk results from breaks in the pavement, not from turning the wheel.

So, a structural deficiency is likely not the issue. We'll find out when I install the updated strut brace next week.

[suss6052]

Originally Posted by Zillon

The clunk results from breaks in the pavement, not from turning the wheel.

So, a structural deficiency is likely not the issue. We'll find out when I install the updated strut brace next week.

Yeah I'm pretty sure I could turn the wheel all day and not hear a groan from the suspension but the tires wouldn't like that unless you were moving while turning. However breaks in the pavement definitely excite something in the chassis in a bad way to generate the "clunk" / thud/ rattle/ loud noises.