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Old 11-13-2012, 08:52 AM   #11
berndt
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The car is a 2002, and has 120K on it. If I were to replace all the bushings, is there a neat list of exactly which ones to get? Is this something the average backyard mechanic can do, or are special tools needed?

And Duh, now it makes sense that the rear looked like they were wearing faster, or might have just been older, I don't know.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:31 AM   #12
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'Fraid it's not as easy as it could be to just replace all the bushings...

Factory bushings are not avail., as they are installed in a "one time" manner - nice & secure in there but not replaceable. Std. factory fix is replacing the arms complete - they're relatively inexpensive & at shop rates this is actually cheaper than replacing bushings.

Aftermarket has performance Poly bushing kits available which CAN be backyard installed, however a press or some skill with a good vise is the minimum to be able to do it.

The largest PITA most run into (especially on cars that have seen winter) is that the bolts rust into the bushing sleeves making removal whole nearly impossible. Once thoroughly frozen in the bushings most posters have reported having to cut the bolts for removal. In some cases even having to cut off the tack welded captured nuts if the bolts can't be turned free. ( if you get them to turn B4 cutting you could unscrew the remnants afterwards, many don't put that much effort into saving the tack nuts)

The simple appearing job turning difficult due to the "Rust Monster" is the reason most just replace worn out items (in pairs recommended) OR go "Whole Hog" and re-bush the entire rear end.

LCA's (lower control arms) would be the first place I'd look for sacked bushings if wiggle was starting to be an issue.
Luck!
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:16 AM   #13
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I'd say check your bushings and get an alignment and have your rear toe at 0.(0 rear toe is very important.)
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:22 AM   #14
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berndt has a car with noticeably more wear in the rear, so I'd guess he might have excessive toe-in in the rear. (proper specs stickied in Wheels, Tires, Brakes & suspension)
Am I blind?!? Can you please link me to these specs?? Thanks. New tires now, so I'd better get an alignment anyway.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:35 PM   #15
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Am I blind?!? Can you please link me to these specs?? Thanks. New tires now, so I'd better get an alignment anyway.
Balance and align those suckers and see if you have any better luck.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:48 PM   #16
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At 120k, I would bet there isn't hardly a good bushing on the rear of that car. I did my ZX3's suspension at 100k and had to cut out almost every rear upper and lower control arm bolt.

Your shocks and struts are also well past due for a change. Don't forget sway bar links too.

The only problems I have in the snow and ice are how low the car is. It doesn't wander at all. Like Iminhell and sailor are saying, I would make sure the car is in good shape mechanically first.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:01 PM   #17
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anyone have a handy list of what (could) needs to be replaced. or a forum post detailing the procedure(s)? Im just curious. I don't know if Id attempt any of this work, or just let a shop rape me to replace the worn bushings.

I will start with a good alignment. Is there a set of specific settings I can give a shop? I've been searching the forums, and haven't found anything obvious yet.

thanks all for the info.
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:43 AM   #18
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The lawsuit is pretty funny, they should be suing for all years of Tempo and Contour which do the exact same thing, the rear squat from bushing sag throws tire alignments off. The tires then wear funky because they don't sit flat. Guess what, that is what independent rear suspension does, funny how they don't tell you that part while touting how great handling is when car is new. The major reason why I learned to hate working on Corvette drag cars.

I have to STRONGLY disagree with the guy who says to put all new tires on the back of FWD cars. There IS a difference between RWD and FWD, there is much more weight back there directly n the tire with the heavy rear end and more stability as a result. I put all new tires on my FWD front, to not do so is asking for all over the road at even as slow as 35 mph and trying to go straight in rain. I have corrected problems many times on other FWD cars doing just that. The rear will always be light, there is no weight back there, either in car overall or rear end weight proper.

Someone should pick up the engineering studies done on the old sixties Corvair at the time the million dollar lawsuits were going on, the cars were unstable due to suspension design but all car weight on ONE END of the car was a major contributor to the rear slide out problems this car was known for. FWD simply switches all that around to make same potential problem but up FRONT now, the inertia is all there now and on a quick roll into a curve in rain the front end can easily snap loose with braking to throw car outboard into a curb or other. Unlike the rear wishy washy issue which will warn you, the front end snap loose is sudden and unexpected when it happens. I'll take the better tires there ANY day.

Every FWD drive car I've driven greatly wears rear tires eccentric or egg shaped, again, no weight back there to dampen oscillation does that, the tires get slightly out of round and then begin to bounce thus making them get even more out of round. Alignment or new tire has no effect on that phenomenon at all. In short, new tires put back there do not live as long as tires put up front new do. The front has enough weight to dampen that oscillation, the tires wear much more evenly up front. Take the rear tires worn out of round and put them on the front and the car becomes absolutely undriveable. The steering wheel will shake you to death. Yet take the front ones and put them on the back with same mileage and car drives usually fine.

Ice???? You people are killing me. Anyone with common sense knows there is a point at which certain icy road conditions can make a car wishy washy in the back end with even brand new car and under 25 mph. The answer is called 'slow down'......................you are driving 'too fast for conditions' as any police officer will be happy to point out.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:06 AM   #19
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Don't matter how good the tires are if the toe is off your gonna kick the rear loose on slippery roads. Get a alignment done.


I have bad toe wear my car sucks in the snow.

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Old 11-14-2012, 07:07 AM   #20
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The lawsuit is pretty funny, they should be suing for all years of Tempo and Contour which do the exact same thing, the rear squat from bushing sag throws tire alignments off. The tires then wear funky because they don't sit flat. Guess what, that is what independent rear suspension does, funny how they don't tell you that part while touting how great handling is when car is new.
I wish my mechanic had told me that. Knowing what I know now, I am thinking that I might have been able to fix the problem years ago by replacing the rear suspension parts. Instead, my mechanic never seemed to even really believe what I was telling him about what I experienced during winter driving. That experience of not being believed and thus not getting actionable advice is frustrating.
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