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Old 02-17-2013, 09:59 PM   #1
jiangfsh
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Question for SPI cylinder head replacement

Hi,
I just confirmed the SPI cylinder #4 has a valve seat drop when I took it off.

I have ordered the $225 head from headsonly.

I have some pictures but don't know how to upload.
Here's the link for the pic: http://imgur.com/ojjTw2x
http://imgur.com/Ee16ZlJ
Why the coolant entered the cylinder ?

I'm new to car DIY, have some question for hook them up.

(1). How do I know if the PISTON and its SHAFT need to be replaced ?
If need to replace them, it seems very difficult to take the engine out and go down into the crankshaft.

(2). Is there any recommendation for the GASKET kit ?
I found some on ebay around $45, how does these compare with the felpro ones ?

(3). timing & driving belt. Is there any recommendation to buy these ?

(4). OIL. I changed engine oil just before the engine dead, do I need to change again ?
And I want to change the POWER STEERING OIL, because it looks very dirty. Is it easy for DIY ?

(5). thermostat.

(6). FILTERS. Is the oil filter easy to replace ? For the air filter I think it's easy.

(7). Any recommendation for the assembly lube ?

(8). Other recommendations.
Since I have opened engine up, I want to do all the routine maintenance, do I missed something ?

(9). The last one is I found a lot of black deposit in the exhaust manifold and possibly also in the cylinder, is there some cleaner to treat that ?

Thank you guys for help.



Last edited by jiangfsh; 02-17-2013 at 10:32 PM. Reason: picture added
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:54 PM   #2
Donnyd21
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Hi,
I just confirmed the SPI cylinder #4 has a valve seat drop when I took it off.

I have ordered the $225 head from headsonly.

I have some pictures but don't know how to upload.
Here's the link for the pic: http://imgur.com/ojjTw2x
http://imgur.com/Ee16ZlJ
Why the coolant entered the cylinder ?

You prob got coolant in the cyl from removing the head (normal) OR the head itsself leaked/cracked when the valve seat was bouncing around, either way as long as the cyl walls look good I would not worry about it but clean the coolant out asap to prevent rusting


(1). How do I know if the PISTON and its SHAFT need to be replaced ?
If need to replace them, it seems very difficult to take the engine out and go down into the crankshaft.

ANYTIME you have damage on the piston itself (even minimal) you need to change the piston AND rod, they bend easily and its not worth causing problems down the road due to having a bent rod. I have GOOD used OEM PISTON and ROD assemblies ready to drop in for $40 shipped each (cheaper than ebay, just add piston rings), PM me if you want them. You DO NOT need to remove the engine, just remove the exhaust under the oil pan, then remove the oil pan, unbolt the connecting rod cap nuts and the piston will come out the top, take care not to scratch the crank, cover the bolts up with rubber hose. Really not the hard to do at all (and I have done 3 motors now)

(2). Is there any recommendation for the GASKET kit ?
I found some on ebay around $45, how does these compare with the felpro ones ?

The one you found on ebay is fine, I have used it and it is a quality gasket set

(3). timing & driving belt. Is there any recommendation to buy these ?

There is a guy selling a set on ebay for around $40, the gatorback brand. YES replace it while in there.

(4). OIL. I changed engine oil just before the engine dead, do I need to change again ?

YES, just run normal 5w20 oil for break in and for the first 500 miles, then change it again with normal 5w20 and then switch it out normally (continue to use conventional oil till the next change), then you can switch to whatever you want.

And I want to change the POWER STEERING OIL, because it looks very dirty. Is it easy for DIY ?

Yes, suck it out and pour new fluid in, easy

(5). thermostat.

Yep, replace that too, the head gasket set will have a new thermostat gasket

(6). FILTERS. Is the oil filter easy to replace ? For the air filter I think it's easy.

Easy as pie, dont use FRAM

(7). Any recommendation for the assembly lube ?

Just get a tube from the parts store, nothing special

(8). Other recommendations.
Since I have opened engine up, I want to do all the routine maintenance, do I missed something ?

Dont forget new rod bearings ($20) and new piston rings, the "sealed power" brand is good. Stay away from NPR piston rings, I have read stories about them not sealing properly and they do not have a taper like the sealed power rings do (the taper helps push the ring outward during the combustion process creating a better "seal") ($60) and new coolant ($10). Also dont forget to do a LIGHT hone on the cyl walls

(9). The last one is I found a lot of black deposit in the exhaust manifold and possibly also in the cylinder, is there some cleaner to treat that ?

Dont worry about that, normal

Thank you guys for help.


Answers in bold
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:10 PM   #3
jiangfsh
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Hi, Donny,
Thank you very much for your reply. It make a lot sense to me.

As you can see in the picture, do I need to replace only the fourth piston or all of them ?

Have a good day.
James
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:15 PM   #4
Donnyd21
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Clean off the tops of the pistons and send me or post another pic. You can turn the engine over using a 19mm socket on the harmonic balancer to get the pistons to top dead center for cleaning. I recommend you remove all the pistons for new piston rings and rod bearings anyway
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:22 AM   #5
jiangfsh
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Thanks, Donny.
Anybody knows how to clean the intake manifold ?
Use water or diesel gas to fill it ?
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:50 AM   #6
Donnyd21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiangfsh View Post
Thanks, Donny.
Anybody knows how to clean the intake manifold ?
Use water or diesel gas to fill it ?
Simple, get some eng degresser (the expanding foam stuff), spray it in and let it soak for 15 mins, do it again, then a couple more times, rinse out with a powerful stream of water and repeat, the foam will loosen the imbedded bits of metal valve seat thats stuck in the "goop" that has accumulated over time in the manifold, spray water from all holes and directions possible, once your good, some shop air will help dry it out. Dont forget the EGR tube, I just use straight shop air for that one to blast it out.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:31 PM   #7
jiangfsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donnyd21 View Post
Simple, get some eng degresser (the expanding foam stuff), spray it in and let it soak for 15 mins, do it again, then a couple more times, rinse out with a powerful stream of water and repeat, the foam will loosen the imbedded bits of metal valve seat thats stuck in the "goop" that has accumulated over time in the manifold, spray water from all holes and directions possible, once your good, some shop air will help dry it out. Dont forget the EGR tube, I just use straight shop air for that one to blast it out.
Thanks again Donny,

I just saw the old thermostat is stay open, that maybe a big problem. The new one has 180F on it and different from the 192F of the old one. Is the new one good to go ?
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:48 AM   #8
Donnyd21
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You want to get a OEM temp one, they likely gave you the wrong one, the 180 is fine but your MPG will suffer a bit (2-3 MPG), hotter engine = better fuel economy (but dont go over what the factory had it set at)
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