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Old 11-11-2012, 06:32 PM   #11
a_2000_se
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CUT the nut/bolt off then punch the bolt through without having to mess with the torx end. An angle grinder is about $9 at harbor freight - use a metal cutting disc.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:34 PM   #12
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I tried that just going to try and drill it completely out now.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:48 PM   #13
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The strut pinch bolt threads to the knuckle. The ball joint pinch bolt has a nut. Wich one did you break?

Your first post said lower. That would be at the ball joint wich has a nut.

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Old 11-11-2012, 08:04 PM   #14
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It's at the lower ball joint. I undid the nut and tried to tap it out with a hammer but no luck. So then I cut the head off and tried to drill it out. I assumed the steering knuckle was threaded and the pinch bolt was seized.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:08 PM   #15
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The lower pinch bolt is only threaded into the nut. I had to hit mine with an air hammer to remove, for a while.

When you replace the bolt, use a hex head bolt and SOAK it in anti-seize. Probably a good idea to replace the LCA with ball joint now since the process of removing the bolt like this buggers the ball joint.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:12 PM   #16
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It is not threaded. The one we broke took a 20ton press to break loose. Remove the knuckle and control arm and take it to be pressed out.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:20 PM   #17
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Ah ha. That's what I will do then. Thanks for the help everyone. I could have swore that was threaded in there because I was smacking it pretty good.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:24 PM   #18
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Crushed a mild steel bolt trying to press the pinch bolt out. Had to use hardened steel. Took 3 tries at full pressure. Then POP out it came, good as new.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:28 PM   #19
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Got the lower control arm/ball joint combo put back together but found it odd the my Haynes manual called for 170ft lbs of torque on the front bolt. Is it just me or does that seem like way too much?
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:34 PM   #20
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170Nm? 170ftlbs is twice what the tq should be.
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