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Old 11-06-2012, 11:40 AM   #11
2012sel
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I think babying the DCT is the wrong way to drive it. 5% to 10% of my launches from stop I ease quickly into full throttle. As I feel the clutch get to 75% engaged, the pedal gets floored.

My DCT drove great until about 13,000 miles. Then it started the shuddering. It was especially bad if I was slowing to a stop and the light turned green before I came to a complete stop and I started to accelerate. It shuddered bad. It wasn't as bad when I was accelerating from a stop, but still significant and frustrating.

When this started, it took a while before I noticed the degradation in drive-ability. A week after I noticed the problem and decided something was wrong, I found a way to fix it. This is how it worked for me, but I don't think it's something that will work for everyone.

Basically I stressed the clutches by manually shifting gears at high RPM. I eased up near red line in sport mode, floored the gas then immediately up shifted. Did this from 2-3, 3-4, 4-5 and 5-6. Repeated about 6 times.

The problem completely went away. I now have 2,000 more miles on the car and it's still OK.

My problem was a clutch friction problem. Like the surfaces were glazed or not glazed enough.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:08 PM   #12
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Just drive it in a way that you keep up with traffic. Don't be the person that uses a mile to get up to the speed limit and, don't be the person that is doing 100 at the end of the intersection.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by StockTalon View Post
Just drive it in a way that you keep up with traffic. Don't be the person that uses a mile to get up to the speed limit and, don't be the person that is doing 100 at the end of the intersection.
^^^This.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:54 PM   #14
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What is the correct way to drive a DCT. Every time I read a thread about some DCT issue, there is always mention of "you have to know how to drive a DCT".

Is there a specific way to drive these cars, VS the norm.
These people you refer to are insensitive jerks. Promptly ignore them and drive however you wish to drive. They are defensive of their purchase and no one wants to look like a sucker, or maybe they have a working car and are soul searching for the magic and secrets to their success. There is no correct way just don't break any laws.

The car was not sold to anyone as needing special driving techniques, snake oil additives, or lessons on throttle positioning. There are no magic break in procedures, fuse pulling sequences, or J turn techniques that will improve your transmission; it jerks and grinds and over-revs and shutters and surges all by design--poor assembly => poor design.

There there is your car and my car and the car that the Ford testers drove. They are all different, and maybe none work correctly. If you think yours is broken, you can try to learn some songs and dances to serenade your dealer into repairing your vehicle. Oh, and don't confuse your dealer with Ford, two totally separate entities competing for the same slice of the profit pie.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by paul21 View Post
These people you refer to are insensitive jerks. Promptly ignore them and drive however you wish to drive. They are defensive of their purchase and no one wants to look like a sucker, or maybe they have a working car and are soul searching for the magic and secrets to their success. There is no correct way just don't break any laws.

The car was not sold to anyone as needing special driving techniques, snake oil additives, or lessons on throttle positioning. There are no magic break in procedures, fuse pulling sequences, or J turn techniques that will improve your transmission; it jerks and grinds and over-revs and shutters and surges all by design--poor assembly => poor design.

There there is your car and my car and the car that the Ford testers drove. They are all different, and maybe none work correctly. If you think yours is broken, you can try to learn some songs and dances to serenade your dealer into repairing your vehicle. Oh, and don't confuse your dealer with Ford, two totally separate entities competing for the same slice of the profit pie.
Looks like someone forgot their snake oil in their coffee today.

Bad apples happen, can't say if yours is one or not.
But you can no more expect to drive a manual like you would an automatic.
Likewise you can no more drive an automated manual like either a manual or automatic.
Ultimately the choice of how you drive is up to the driver of the car. Since it is so new to the public market, to ford specifically, you can't say it's supposed to act any certain way for sure. All you can go on is what the designers of the system say, they may be wrong; but assuming they are right, then the operation of the DCT is a tad bit rougher than automatics.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:38 PM   #16
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Shuddering...no shuddering...shuddering again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaaru View Post
That's my case. I had issue (shudering, hesitation, loss of power, no down shifts etc...) with the DCT before and had 12B37 applied to my car.

I was then happy to report that once I got my car back, 8 day later, the car AND the DCT behaved like a charm. however, the bad behavior came back in a matter of weeks, slowly and gradually. I have followed all of the tips given here by some pretty helpfull members: Baby it, dont baby it, drive like a granny, don't drive like granny, remove the air box, lid, change the air filter, etc... I havent done the battery pull however.

I have been trying to get my dealer to check my car since July 2012.
My situation is similar to the guy who stated that his shuddering from a stop came back...mine came back at about 12,000 miles. My dealer (always excellent) says to me yes, it's jerking, but Ford says it's normal so there's nothing we can do. So I think I'm going to lose my a**, shirt and more and trade it in in the spring. Right now it's operating pretty smoothly, but I know that it's heat related and soon as the hotter weather comes, it will be shuddering again. In fact, when the temps are in the 80's and I have to do a lot of stop and go in slow traffic, I would call the shudder more like a "jerking". It actually makes my whole body shudder/tremor/whatever. I otherwise love this car (2012 SEL hatchback), but this transmission jerking has now reached the intolerable stage for me.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darketernal3 View Post
Looks like someone forgot their snake oil in their coffee today.

Bad apples happen, can't say if yours is one or not.
But you can no more expect to drive a manual like you would an automatic.
Likewise you can no more drive an automated manual like either a manual or automatic.
Ultimately the choice of how you drive is up to the driver of the car. Since it is so new to the public market, to ford specifically, you can't say it's supposed to act any certain way for sure. All you can go on is what the designers of the system say, they may be wrong; but assuming they are right, then the operation of the DCT is a tad bit rougher than automatics.
The problem is "a tad bit rougher" translates into anything goes. Dealers simply refuse to look into any issues, it's a different transmission so all behaviors are expected and correct.

A manual has a gear selector, a clutch, and a throttle.
An automatic has "drive", and a throttle.

You're right, there's a difference. But between different automatics, it should be just that, automatic. You should have to do nothing special to get it to automatically work correctly.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #18
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Mine drives pretty much just like an automatic. Just give it a split second to engage the clutch when you take your foot off the brake pedal and you shouldn't notice a different ever.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul21 View Post
The problem is "a tad bit rougher" translates into anything goes. Dealers simply refuse to look into any issues, it's a different transmission so all behaviors are expected and correct.

A manual has a gear selector, a clutch, and a throttle.
An automatic has "drive", and a throttle.

You're right, there's a difference. But between different automatics, it should be just that, automatic. You should have to do nothing special to get it to automatically work correctly.
You assume this is a typical slushbox... it isn't.

It's a DCT... this stands for Dual Clutch Transmission, in case you were weren't paying attention.
Again... this is an Automated Clutch transmission.

I would like to correct my statement of "automated manual" because, it isn't a manual if you automate it...
A better description is "Automated Clutch".
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:57 PM   #20
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Whatever this junk tranny is I hate it. We have had ours in for the ecu upgrade and now it's in the shop for new clutches. Took it in on the 2nd and parts are on back order. Going to get a loaner tomorrow. I'll give a couple grand more for a ST straight up.
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