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Old 10-28-2012, 04:06 PM   #1
Aeather
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Dropped Valve Seat? Prevention?

Hello, My name is Kolten.
I just bought a 2002 with 125k Miles for about 4600.
2 days ago, and I was reading up on the car and noticed that the valve drop is basically inventiable. I'm gonna call the dealership tomorrow to see if they did anything to replace it or what not.
If not is there anything I can do to prevent it? By buying new valve seats that fit the MPI motor? Or just drive it and save up for a zetec swap...


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Old 10-28-2012, 04:35 PM   #2
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overall you would enjoy the zetec more... cost depends on what's being done and who does the work, and of course where you get your parts.

if you use an AERA approved head, they are supposed to eliminate the problem.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:42 AM   #3
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Well I just called the ford dealership here where I live and the mechanic said it can be avoided by taking good car of your engine, and the signs of it about to drop is blue smoke and rattling up and the top of the engine. I think this guy is just full of bs, so I'm gonna call tomorrow see if I can get someone else.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #4
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294300
Thread right below this one ( at time of posting ) seems to indicate through many people posting, that the valve seat, if OEM from factory, should have potentially been a recall. As they are defective to the point to where it feels like quitting on that day, your engine is also heading to the junk yard in the sky.

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Well I just called the ford dealership here where I live and the mechanic said it can be avoided by taking good car of your engine
Im guessing the mechanic wants your business, in the form of parts from Ford, and labor through Ford. Guaranteeing a price tag larger then the current value of the car.

Potential Solution: rebuild head or buy rebuilt head with updated parts / hardware to be certain your focus will NOT give you and your location junk yard quality time together. ( Sorry just got done watching George Carlin Videos, no ill intent is intended )
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:54 PM   #5
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re inky thing true about that is the rattling. no smoke. not just taking care of it to prevent failure.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:13 AM   #6
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So.. Heres the deal. Instead of purchasing a 400 dollar head. I just thought about doing a zetec swap.

Heres the options I have for the engine in my local junk yard search

2.0L, VIN 3 (8th digit, DOHC), intake ID 988F- smooth seam runner
2.0L, VIN 3 (8th digit, DOHC), intake ID WS4E- raised seam runner
2.0L, VIN 5 (8th digit, SVT, DOHC)
2.0L, VIN P (8th digit, SOHC)
2.3L (VIN Z, 8th digit, PZEV)

Which one do I pick? Also I under stand I need the ECU, engine harness and what else?

I'm pretty good with doing mechanic stuff had a 91 honda civic before this car and did the alt, timing belt, water pump, brakes stuff like that. So I'm not that mechanically challenged.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:20 AM   #7
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Same thing with ECU? And I dont need to replace the transmission right?

Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), DOHC, AT, ID 3S4A KB thru KE
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), DOHC, MT, SVT, ID 2S4A-AFA, AFB & AFF
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), DOHC, MT, SVT, ID 2U7A-FYA
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), DOHC, MT, exc. SVT; ID 3S4A-LB thru LE
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), SOHC, AT, ID 3S4A-FB thru FE
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.0L (4-121), SOHC, MT, ID 3S4A-GB thru GE
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.3L (4-140, PZEV), AT, ID 3S4A-AAB & AAC
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.3L (4-140, PZEV), AT, ID 3U7A-FMAMR
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.3L (4-140, PZEV), MT, ID 3S4A-ABB & ABC
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), (base of RH "A" pillar), 2.3L (4-140, PZEV), MT, ID 3U7A-FNAMR
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:38 AM   #8
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You ARE mechanically challenged or you would know that VIN P in your engine list is the same bad one you are trying to replace.

You would also know then that there is no maintenance you can do to prevent SPI motor breaking, they do it when they are ready to with no warning generally.

And again you would know to get the PCM that goes with engine you pick. Use them from same exact car.

No insult intended but you are obviously beginning to get into trouble and haven't even started yet.......trying to save you a lot of headache.

'.........inventiable'.

??? Were you trying to say 'inevitable'?
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