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Old 09-29-2012, 04:48 AM   #1
fuhrer
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Oil change

Hello guys,

I want to change oil and i would like any suggestions from you.

I have diesel Focus, 2001, 120 000 km (Albania)


Last time i use Castrol.

Please can you suggest me any brand and viscosity for my car?

Kind regards,

N'


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Old 09-29-2012, 06:38 PM   #2
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I don't have a diesel focus but I have another vehicle that has flat tappet cams so a high zinc content is advised. I use the Full synthetic Shell Rotella-T.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:48 AM   #3
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Thank you Magus2727!!!

How about the viscosity?
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:18 PM   #4
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what does the user manual say? I am guessing its should be close to the same 5W20 or 5W30 that the normal Zetec or even Duratec have.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:30 AM   #5
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The manual require 5W30, but does this change as the car get older?
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:02 AM   #6
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Engine oil viscosity should never change due to an engines age, however, saying that you may find some old school mechanics recommend a thicker oil just before sale to quieten noisier engines temporarily:)
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:08 AM   #7
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Thank you Ghia!! :-)
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:51 AM   #8
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Thicker oil usually is a way to only cover up problems, such as valve train noise or oil leaks. The manual should have a variation saying g if you live in hot areas you can run a heaver weight oil if the temp is above xx deg F. Heaver weight oils take longer for proper flow through the whole motor, so on your cold starts more ware from oil starvation will occur with a heavy weight oil vs the lighter weight.

I think some have said that if its a full synthetic then due to its better "properties" you can run a lighter weight oil. I don't know how much stock I put into that.

I would run with the 5W30 unless you qualify for an exception as called out in the manual. Almost every 4-cyl motor I have seen or worked on has 5w30 as the factory recommended oil weight.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:23 AM   #9
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'I think some have said that if its a full synthetic then due to its better "properties" you can run a lighter weight oil. I don't know how much stock I put into that.'

You're putting more in than you think, you're already doing it. 5W-30 now replaces the old standard which was 10W-40 on virtually all cars. Now we are dropping to 5W-20........

More bunk, I'll get flak for this but prove it wrong you cannot.

'Heaver weight oils take longer for proper flow through the whole motor, so on your cold starts more ware from oil starvation will occur with a heavy weight oil vs the lighter weight.'

If a heavier weight oil takes longer to flow into the motor, it will take longer to flow OUT of the motor. Any questions? Or does anyone think the oil is smart enough to know which way it is going?

The heavier oil will stay in place in bearings better because it's thicker, capillary action that retains oil in cracks works better on thicker fluids. The thinner oil that pumps in easier also runs out faster to give so-called dry starts, which I don't really believe in anyway. If there were any true dry starting the motors wouldn't last a month. I've pulled apart engines that sat for YEARS and they still had plenty of startup oil around the bearings, the idea just ain't so. But the oil marketing guys love you for thinking it!!

I use either straight 30 or 10W-40.............here in Texas oil thinning from heat problems hold sway over cold flow. I also use the big FL1 filter and change conventional non synthetic oil at 7500 miles.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:06 AM   #10
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Oil heats up with the friction from the moving parts in an engine. Having it stay in longer isn't helping it at all. Use the oil the manufacturer recommends and you'll never go wrong. Thicker oil can help if the oil clearances have become larger from wear but it's just putting a bandaid on it. If you need to move to a thicker weight oil just do yourself a favor and replace the bearings and keep using the factory recommended oil.
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