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Old 08-30-2010, 10:43 AM   #1
wsupjs
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Power Unlock = Not Working

Hey guys. I've been roaming the forums for a while but finally decided to register. I have an issue with my 2004 Competition Orange SVT that hopefully you guys can help me with.

Basically, my power unlock doesn't work. My power lock, hatch release, and all other power features work, which is why I believe it is not an issue with Fuse 63.

Also, when I push the power unlock button, you can hear a click noise behind the glove box. Seems almost like there is a bad connection somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


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Old 08-30-2010, 11:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsupjs View Post
Also, when I push the power unlock button, you can hear a click noise behind the glove box. Seems almost like there is a bad connection somewhere.
If you can hear a clicking from the passenger side footwell/glovebox area, you're correct in assuming that everything prior to the actual locking mechanism - fuse, switch - is in working order. The central locking mechanism "control box" is piggy backed on the ECU in that area.
As you've suggested, it's likely a bad connection, short or problem with the locking mechanism itself (jammed/stuck/broken). I had this problem with the rear hatch realease (including the clicking noise from the glovebox area); the only solution was a replacement of the entire hatch lock.
In your case, because the lock works but the unlock doesn't, it's likely a wiring fault.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:21 AM   #3
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Hang on there is a guy here that can help you with fuse 63 problems let me find em.

Niggly51 is the guy I sent him a message. I know as soon as he gets it he will help you indefinatly. He earns his rep points, I know that much.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
If you can hear a clicking from the passenger side footwell/glovebox area, you're correct in assuming that everything prior to the actual locking mechanism - fuse, switch - is in working order. The central locking mechanism "control box" is piggy backed on the ECU in that area.
As you've suggested, it's likely a bad connection, short or problem with the locking mechanism itself (jammed/stuck/broken). I had this problem with the rear hatch realease (including the clicking noise from the glovebox area); the only solution was a replacement of the entire hatch lock.
In your case, because the lock works but the unlock doesn't, it's likely a wiring fault.

Yeah the clicking is in the passenger side footwell/glovebox area. Where would the connection be back there so I could check to make sure it is solid? There's a lot of stuff back there, and I don't really want to be unplugging unrelated stuff.... haha.

djzx3: Thanks for getting ahold of him. Hopefully he'll have some more to contribute.

Anyone else have this issue or have more ideas?
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:21 PM   #5
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Thanks for the big build up djzx3!
I saw this post a couple of days ago (I'm on holiday at the mo and trying not to use the computer tooooooooo much) and my first thoughts were, "Fuse 63". But it isn't likely to be that if the OP has a partially working system. I suspect the problem is with one of the door actuators. It is common on most cars for them to suffer water ingress and become stiff and corroded internally. The problem is in determining which one it is! How many doors do you have? Have you tried using the key in the door to lock and unlock? Did that work OK?
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:54 PM   #6
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niggly51: I have two doors. I've used the key to unlock the driver side's door, and it works fine. That's actually how I've had to get into the car since this issue started... haha.

So do you think it's the actuator or a wiring issue?
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:54 PM   #7
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The clicking behind the glove box isn't familiar to me. On other vehicles I had similar problems but you could see the actuators were attempting to unlock the car. Problem I had was worn out actuators. Replaced the actuators and problem fixed.

It would lock em all just didn't have the oomph to unlock em.
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:34 PM   #8
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As 2010_ses said- it most probably is the actuator/s. Try the drivers door one first, remove it and check its operation. If it is obviously faulty then replace. If not, then on to the passenger door.
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:15 AM   #9
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Question: If one of the acuators was bad, wouldn't the other door still unlock properly? I'm not an expert on this stuff, but it seems like unless both actuators went bad simultaneously, then the door with a properly functioning actuator would still unlock with the power buttons.
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Old 09-06-2010, 12:23 PM   #10
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Posted via FF MobileYeah, you`d think so, wouldn`t you.... door that you don`t use as much could have not been working without noticing it for a while, or current draw from bad one reduces power avail. to all if it`s an electrical fault instead of simple mechanical stickiness..... Wiring at door harness plug in or inside flex boot to door can be another problem area if you find no power at actuator for locking/unlocking.... Pain to pull panels & check things but it needs to be done to see what`s going on.....
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