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Old 09-20-2012, 09:01 AM   #1
smallblockfever
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to do list... with timing belt

So pretty soon i will be ordering a bunch of parts from steve at tousley, and i need some advice before i go ahead with stuff.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, should timing belt be pretty easy? I've heard that using the bar in a kit helps, but what baout just making marks for the cams and crank pulley to get them to line up again?

struts and shocks- ordering a kit of them, what bushings should i replace with them?

plugs and wires- ima check out the threads on here

brake pads and rotors- best brands? i just want a small step up over stock

slave cylinder- need one, hard to replace? or should i get shop to do it

idler pulley, water pump, ac compressor, alternator- gonna replace that when i do timing belt just to knock out rotating assembyl while im messing with it. Any tips when i go to do this?


what kind of tires do you guys like?


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Old 09-23-2012, 02:38 PM   #2
z28forlife
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Timing belt kit. Idler pulley, water pump, tensioner for timing belt and drive belt. Defiantly get the can bar and timing pin set from cfm.com. A definent must!
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:47 PM   #3
BigRed03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallblockfever View Post
So pretty soon i will be ordering a bunch of parts from steve at tousley, and i need some advice before i go ahead with stuff.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, should timing belt be pretty easy? I've heard that using the bar in a kit helps, but what baout just making marks for the cams and crank pulley to get them to line up again?

Get the timing bar and take your time. You will need a T55 somewhere, iirc. WORD OF WARNING: The instructions for the t-belt change state to loosen the cam gears. I did not, got no codes and replaced belt as follows: Install around crank gear, go up exhaust side of engine with mild tension (not enough to move crank), around tbelt idler and over exhaust cam with no slop between any teeth or in belt, continue over the intake cam with no slop in teeth. There will be slop between intake cam and crank gear to be removed with tensioner. SHould you decide to loosen gears as per fords instructions, over on FJ there is an excellent thread for how to go through and REAAAAALLLLYYY nail the timing down.

struts and shocks- ordering a kit of them, what bushings should i replace with them?

you can get an assembled kit from Steve with new strut bearings, otherwise youll need a spring compressor with just the shock/strut kit and purchase the bearings as additional. Id also recommend new sway bar endlinks all around

plugs and wires- ima check out the threads on here

Stock coil and wires have been proven to 600+whp. Get copper core plugs through Steve and set gap .055-.060"

brake pads and rotors- best brands? i just want a small step up over stock

Centric blanks and EBC green pads are what i run

slave cylinder- need one, hard to replace? or should i get shop to do it

Slave is inside the bellhousing, requiring the dropping of the trans. If youre game, go for it....If you meant the master cyl, thats connected to the Clutch pedal under dash and much easier

idler pulley, water pump, ac compressor, alternator- gonna replace that when i do timing belt just to knock out rotating assembyl while im messing with it. Any tips when i go to do this?

My philosophy: if it ain't broke don't fix it. Water pump isnt run off of the tbelt like hondas, and is next to the AC compressor. 113k miles on original AC compressor, Water pump, and PS pump. Alt I swapped at IIRC 75k miles

what kind of tires do you guys like?
Not firestone firehawk Indy 500s or w/e these latest tires i purchased are. They are a narrow 215, dont have good water shedding properties driving through rain, and mediocre grip....
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